The only reason to write this is that it was a surprise to me that it needed to be done and turned out to be so easy. The problem was that my Raymarine C80 chart plotter took forever to find its GPS location. From another association member, I learned that there is a battery inside that needs periodic replacement. The battery evidently stores the last known location so has a place to start when finding itself next time.
It is easy to do, too.
Step 1:
On my boat the GPS antenna is mounted on the transom with two threaded screws easily removed. There was an adhesive gasket also holding it to the transom and this needs to be dislodged.
Step 2:
Remove the 6 small screws from the underside of the antenna and then carefully pry up the bottom plate of the
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[Webmaster] Yes, there is an emergency shutdown for a 3JH4 Engine.
I had an incident yesterday afternoon that stumped me for awhile, and concerned me too. As some background I had wired in a warning light at the helm to alert me when the Racor filter is filing with water. Since completing this project last week, I had not had an opportunity to use the engine.
Yesterday, I wanted to run the engine for a bit and maybe finally take Alderu out for a day cruise. I placed the key in the ignition (and possibly turned it, not sure) and the engine just came right on. No hitting any start buttons, nothing, just key in and RUN. At first I didn’t even comprehend what was going on, but realized that the Yanmar was running. None of the instruments were alive; the tach, temp, fuel gauge, etc, all dead. But
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Well it’s been in the idea stage for quite a while. The necessity of the canvas dodger and bimini needing to be replaced has primed the need to build a hard dodger and hard bimini from a Starboard type material called Seaboard. I am planning on spending extended time on Water Racket as I transition into part time retirement. We want a full enclosure as we’ll be spending more time in our cockpit than below. I designed and built these units with the input of Dan Wood at Canvas Creations in Annapolis. He wanted to replace his fiberglass hard dodgers with a more cost effective material and that’s where I came in. I’ve posted the initial mounting photos and Dan will be finishing the canvas work in the near future. I’ve designed and manufacture Keder Tracks from the Seaboard material and hot air welded it to the tops with
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Here’s my report on the stiff gear shift issue. I removed the cable from the transmission and moved the shift lever. It was stiff without being attached. Next I removed the head bump cover under the steering pedestal below. I didn’t see any kinks, but a cable holder steers the cable into an “s” turn, so I removed that to give it a more gentle curve. Checked the lever again. Still stiff. I started to remove my compass to get to the insides. Two bolts came easy, two were stuck, so I sprayed them with wd40 and had a beer. For grins, I sprayed some into where the lever goes into the housing. The hole looks to be lined with a Teflon or plastic tube through which the lever passes. I worked it in with a few back and forth, and low and behold it started to free up. Problem
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OK, I have successfully replaced my Transmission Cable. Here is the info for anyone interested. The final result is a very smooth shift…Sweet!
The cable length is 17 feet (I used a Teleflex, CCX63317). The toughest part of the whole project was getting the Cable holder out. I had to loosen the steering cables at the quadrant in order to shift the chain forward at the top of the binnacle to have enough room to pull the holder out. The left side of the binnacle has a little more room than the right side, so this is the side to use. The other trick was to totally flip the cable holder over to remove it, Use the two cable like chopsticks as the Edison Tech told me, and flip it so that the bolt side was facing towards the middle of the binnacle (this will only make sense to those
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I dimly remember seeing that someone pulled and re-bedded the large v-berth hatch, and posted pictures somewhere. After years of chasing leaks…and unable to locate a new major leak, I ready to do the same.
I checked all the usual suspects, hinge seals, cleaned and lubed the rubber gasket with silicone, etc., to no avail. Run Captain’s Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure in the upper edge of the aluminum hatch frame numerous times…nada! Time to re-bed with plenty of Sikaflex 291 Polyurethane sealant, my time tested favorite!
Water is streaming out the inside plastic trim channel, through the forward and aft screen retention twist retainers. No traceable or visible moisture tracks anywhere outside the trim channel. Looks like the previous owner already sealed the frame screw holes that others have found to be the source of the leak source.
Can anyone point me to/or email me, the pictures of the repair,
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Some of you might’ve seen my message from last week about my Raymarine E80 not finding me upon boot up. But for some reason being able to find me after 10-15 mins. Based upon every comment and prior history of Raystar 120/125 discussions I assumed it was a problem with my GPS antenna. Thinking was focused upon crud that might’ve developed in the connections. And if not not there the Raystar would need to be replaced.
So I tried to remove the cable from the bottom of the Raystar, but couldn’t get it free, I tried this tool and that, no luck. Eventually I decided it was time to dismantle the Raystar antenna. And what did I find when I took off the cover/dome? A CR2032 battery and holder that undoubtedly was designed to store your last known location, so that it would be there on boot up. This explained
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I’ve been using the 235-250 ft-lb number that was posted a few years back and it seems to be OK. Bolt is 1.5″ and needs about 4″ of throat on the socket wrench.
I found a solution for the slow head sink drain that many of us have complained about. I installed a 3/4″ 90 degree barbed fitting directly below the sink drain tailpiece. I then connected a piece of hose, curving in the longest arc I could fit in the available space, between the fitting and the thru-hull. This curve provides an escape for the air bubble that used to become trapped when the hose was vertical. Just make sure the hose is angled downward from the start or you could create another opportunity for an air bubble. Now the sink drains very nicely even when I’m using high pressure city water.
Jeff
C387 #145
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Recently replaced main halyard with one of 10 mm VPC. Size was recommended by rigger. Line is certainly strong enough but problem is it slips badly when under load. Clutch will not hold it. It also slips on winch – even with 4 wraps. Clutches are rated for lines as small as 8 mm and many of other lines (reef lines, uphaul, etc.) are that size and do not slip. Is problem new line that needs to be roughed up a little to hold or did I make a mistake by going to smaller size? Any suggestions ?
Stefan Leader
380 #327.
Take apart the rope clutch and look at the teeth. Bet you will find they are worn. Replacement parts are available, I ordered from Defender. One I replaced them no more slipping. I make a point of opening the clutch when I am pulling up the main
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