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How To Identify Your Lewmar Portlight

Warren,

When switching the discussion to highlight concurrent changes in portlights, we may be adding an element of confusion. The Old/New portlights don’t fall under the coast/ocean model designation, Lewmar simply designates them as either Old or New Standard portlights. It doesn’t appear that there ever was an “Old coast version”. To add to the confusion there actually was an old Ocean version portlight, that like the old standard portlight has a twist lever. Since Makana Kai has the Lewmar New Standard Portlights, I’m clueless as to whether Catalina equipped older boats with the old standard portlights or Ocean Portlights

That or Bomar’s! [Following link goes to:  How To Identify Your Lewmar Portlight ]

https://www.lewmar.com/node/14691

PS…We’re just happy that our Coastline hatch isn’t leaking any more, as it’s currently raining!

One of my doc mates walked by as I was applying Sikaflex to the hatch frame in preparation for bedding,

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Forward Hatch Replacement

Just received the following information from Lewmar to my question about parts and what currently produced hatch is a direct replacement for my Coastline Trapezoid 65.

Please see the link for the spares for the coastline hatch.
http://www.lewmar.com

replacement hatch 39965030 low profile http://www.lewmar.com

regards Lewmar Team

Looks just like the Coastline hatch to me.

Jim Turner
“Makana Kai”, 2000 C380, #227

 


Well the hatch is bedded and curing. Learned a few more things about Makana Kai’s Lewmar hatches. Their identified on the lens as the Coastline series not Ocean. The trapezoid one in the V-berth is a 65, the large one in the salon a 40, and the smaller ones 10’s. Richard Stanton and I realized that Hunkydory (C380 #241), docked three slips away, has different hatches, likely Ocean series.

After finding that Lewmar is slow to answer inquiries, and doesn’t stock many parts, I ordered seals from

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How to get the flange off the prop shaft

 

I need to replace my PSS. Seems to have worn down.
I got the two flanges (trans side and prop side) separated.
I can NOT seem to get the prop flange off the shaft. I got the set screws out. I can’t budge the key. Seems rusted on, I am stuck.

In a post from April 2010 Warren said to separate the two flanges, put a “spacer” (nut or ratchet set piece) then “insert longer bolts” connecting the two flanges and evenly tighten.

I am not at boat and did NOT bring the existing bolts home.
Does anyone know what type of bolt I need to do this?

-Ken
c380 #176
Newport, RI

 


You can make up the longer “bolts” using booker rod … I think it is 8mm Metric and use a socket spanner for spacer. You should also check for wear of the cutlass bearing …this

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C380 versus C387 Differences

I am a C34 owner who is considering a move up to a bigger boat. I know a lot about the differences between the Mark I and the Mark II versions of the C34 but the differences between the C380 and the C387 seem more subtle to me. Other than cost and age, are there important distinctions I should keep in mind when comparing the two boats?

Responses from the group:

  • 380 has a separate bronze strut for support of the prop-shaft while the 387 has a molded in skeg which covers the shaft completely.  
  • The 387 has a bit more head room than the 380, and therefore a higher cabin top
  • the genoa winches were downsized from #54 to #48.
  • The lower backstay legs were move farther inboard so the stern perch seats are easier to access.
  • The earlier 380s are equipped with a smaller genoa furler.
  • The early 380s have inner-spring mattresses or just foam – 1998 C380 has foam; 1999 has inner-spring mattress
  • The 380 didn’t have much sound insulation inside the engine covers. The 387 has some, needs more.
  • The 380 has standard and tall-mast versions?? The 387 only has the equivalent of the “standard” mast height
  • Wing keel depth changed a number of times in the 380 line and then to 4’10” in 387 though some have reported it is actually deeper than that when the boat is loaded.
  • Mast on C380s from z-spar until later switch to Charleston.  Early C387s used Charleston then changed to Seldon
  • Catalina eliminated the T-shaped shaped cockpit on the 387. Some like the additional room in the 387.
  • Catalina eliminated the vented sealed liner on at least one of the aft swim platform 387 lockers.-One is sealed, one is open to the lazarette.
  • Catalina split the starboard salon bench seat in two seats with dedicated table, where the 380 bench seat back folded down with a less functional table top. – In the 387, the table lowers and becomes a bench.
  • Eliminated the dedicated nav-station seat.
  • The waste tank that was mounted under the bench seat was moved to what is a wet hanging locker on the 380.
  • Lots of cabinet changes in the salon, enlarged the aft cabinets and eliminated shelves.
  • Eliminated the storage above the power panel at the Nav station by increasing the panel size for upgrades. Changed the cabinetry under the galley sink
  • Changed the configuration of the 387 v-berth, and eliminated the forward wash basin.
  • Altered the number and configuration of side fixed and opening ports.
  • Divided anchor locker and added an additional roller
  • Changed the configuration and number of bilge access boards.
  • Redesigned and improved the refrigerator door
  • Changed the shower bulkhead//door.
  • Another consideration is Westerbeke versus Yanmar, which is actually a 380 vs. 380 consideration, since it occurred sometime during the 2000 model year.
  • A significant change is the aft “queen” bed configuration.  It was lowered, giving more vertical space Also, the bed has optional orientation: either fore/aft or athrwartship.  
  • Some aft cabin storage was lost on the C387.
  • On another front, early C387s had a baby stay. This did give rise to a mod to fix questionable interior attachment of stay & resulting leaks.- The turnover was thought to be in around hull 60??

 

 

Winch Cleaning

Discussion of solvents for cleaning winches:

Good Video on stripping down a Lewmar winch.,..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqCunPhQHw4

I’ve disassembled my Lewmar winch and was attempting to degrease everything using mineral spirits. I didn’t have enough so I went to Lowes to buy more but I found out they no longer supply mineral spirits in my area due to new regulations. The salesman suggested acetone which is doing a very poor job. Any suggestions on a degreasing agent?


Lewmar folks recommend cleaning the winch parts in liquid paraffin which is nothing more than clear lamp oil.  I does a nice job of degreasing without the drying effects of acetone and no more expensive.  I’ve been doing this for years.  Don’t use grease on the pawls or the pawl ratchet, use only light machine oil.  Grease in the pawls will bind them up and they will stop working.  Lewmar has instructions on their web

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Starter Solenoid

Well all launched on lake Ontario even though we had strong winds. Minor problem at launch, starter solenoid decided to crap out, I managed to jump the starter solenoid connection and at least get over to the slip.

Has anyone had success in purchasing starter solenoid without having to buy a new starter. I searched Torrenson and local Westerbeke dealer in Ontario but they only list new starters at a small fortune. If I can’t find a solenoid the option is just sending starter to rebuilder for rebuild and new solenoid.

If anyone has had success in finding a solenoid please let me know, greatly appreciated.

Paul
Hull 170
Bronte

 


Paul…

Suggest checking connections.  A bit of corrosion, especially at starter terminals, can produce that symptom, depending on your jumping technique.

Warren
Warrenell@msn.com


Paul

I was able to purchase a new solenoid from Stewart Marine (206) 789-4600 in Seattle

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Raymarine e95, e125, X10, Seatalk NG ,etc.

Our repair project following Hurricane Sandy has moved well into a major refit and refurbishment. We have just bought the Raymarine e95 display and standard digital radar, and are waiting on the rebate of an i70 multifunction display. I’m finding the connection/hook-up directions to be fairly poor, but it might just be me. The question is whether or not the old autohelm, original with the boat, will connect and is even worth connecting? I traced the wiring around and can find no “Corepack”, which comes with the more recent vintage Raymarines (e.g.. X10).

Any thoughts on the lifetime of these autohelms? The new units are around $3500 all in, which is a lot for our budget.

Tom, Alchemy
1998 C380, #120
 

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Tom, I have an e125 and an X10 autohelm. The older pilots and ST60 instruments can be networked to the e series only through Seatalk NG as

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AC Condensator

Hello all,
Has anyone installed a condensator on their AC unit. I have a 16000 Cruise Air with two handlers. The main AC is in the rear lazerette. The drain hose for the rear unit empties into the bilge aft of the main bilge. Water stays in their always because the drain hole is higher than the forward bilge. I would like to get the water out the boat so it doesn’t sit in the bilge. Any thoughts?

Thanks, Russell
Catalina 380 1997 #20

 


I had these installed in my units back when I used a/c.  They worked great.

http://www.mmair.com/marine_division/accessories/mermaid_condensator

Chris
s/v MoonSail
1993 CM38cc #26
www.MoonSail.com

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Access to Pump out hose just below deck plate

I need to replace my head storage tank pump out hose. I’m not quite sure how to get access to the connection below the deck plate. There is a small curved liner piece in this area. It looks like I might be able to remove this piece if I work its bedding loose, but I don’t want to attack it without some confirmation that I’m on the right path. Any advice?

Thanks
Mike (s/v Morning Glory)

Mike,
Using pictures from Bob Goldman on Xanadu, last winter I replaced all the sanitary hoses “downstream” of the holding tank i.e. to the macerator pump and to that pump out fitting. I used pvc in lieu of the flexible hoses. The change is spectacular resulting in total elimination of any odor. To make that connection you are asking about I cut the existing hose a few inches below the deck fitting within the

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