As a result of Sandy, it looked as if our keel/hull joint might have cracked open slightly. I ground down to the joint, from about 1/4 inch above and to 1 inch below using a very fat 3M type abrasive wheel. It looked as if there was a hairline crack in the bedding compound from the rear to about 1/3 forward. Last weekend I undid and removed the 10 nuts inside – that took a 3/4 inch drive set which I have and a 5 foot cheater bar.
Tuesday this past week, the yard used their travel lift to hoist the boat up about 6 inches. Nothing budged, although the crack opened up slightly. I spent the day chiseling out the bedding compound – its not 5200 but is either fiberglass resin or epoxy. I had cut a bunch of hard wood wedges and, starting at the back, pounded a
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1 – I would suggest that you flush out the entire system 2 or 3 times
2 – Disconnect the main 1 ½” hose from the rear of the head and from the rear of the holding tank. To make it easy, carefully make a cut along the hose and pry off. Drill a small hole in the end of the hose under the sink and attach a messenger line. Pull the hose forward into the main cabin. Remove the hoses on the outlet side of the tank. In order to reach the hose clamps on the waste pump out deck fitting, you must remove the corner piece over the hanging locker (to get this out, remove the teak trim along the starboard side of the cabin). You will have to drill a hole in the headliner to reach the hose clamps
3 – Remove the plywood top over the
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Today I removed, inspected, and reinstalled my exhaust mixing elbow. As you know the engine manual says replace at 500 hours and they make two exhaust elbows. One at approx. $260. and one at approx. $900. Naturally, the C-387 has the larger, heavier, more expensive one, but it should last longer. I talked with a fellow sailor who attended the Yanmar engine school and the mechanic/instructor said to inspect at recommended interval and only replace when needed. I have 950 engine hrs. and my elbow looked good inside. No visible wearing away of the metal or carbon build up. The following is the procedure I recommend for removal:
Remove raw water hose.
Unbolt 4 nuts and remove elbow.
Have someone hold exhaust hose (3 3/8 in. O.D.) while you twist elbow out.
The exhaust hose is large and only slightly flexible. I was unable to remove it from the elbow
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[Found this on another Catalina site and thought I would pass it on]
I’m going to put on my ‘wood butcher’ hat and share some ‘old school’ information about oil finishes.
A lot of teak oil sold today is of low quality and produces inferior results…this leads to poor performance which, in turn, leads folks to purchase other easy to use products which though more durable, are often inferior in appearance.
Good teak oil is often expensive when purchased in marine stores, so most people will opt for the cheap stuff which has a low percentage of solids and may not have any UV protection added at all.
The way oil finishes work is that they contain resins (solids) and solvents. The solvents allow the resins to be applied easily and to penetrate the wood fibers. When the solvents evaporate, the resins harden leaving a smooth and relatively durable finish.
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My wife and I purchased a 380 last summer.There was lots of mould in the boat, and both the vee berth and aft cabin mattresses were dirty, smelly, and in need of cleaning and/or replacement. Our first thought was to steam clean them. Then we thought about replacing them outright. After some research we decided to go with new forward and aft cabin inner-spring mattresses from Riverside Mattress in North Carolina.
The contact there was Carla, and she was great to work with.There is some work involved though. They send you a template for each cabin, which you have to return. I think it took about 4 weeks, and they were about half price what Catalina was going to charge. We are VERY happy with the end product, and they fit perfectly. We sleep better on the boat than we do at home. If you need more info, fire
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This comes from the C320 group but I thought it valuable to bring it to ours as well since I haven’t seen it discussed by our group. The discussion started with using wrenches and a propane torch to heat the hub:
“More heat should work. My experience is that it generally will take a MAP torch to get enough heat on the prop to break it loose. The MAP applies about 3 times the heat of a propane torch.”
“Any need to worry about heat deforming the cutlass bearing?”
“Start with a cold prop and shaft, a MAPP gas torch will heat the hub fairly quickly and the hub will expand enough to get the prop loose well before enough heat can get to the shaft and travel to the cutlass.
So no problem. Propane will work too but isn’t nearly as hot so you’ll heat the shaft more in
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Hi all
The normal procedure for drilling stainless is:
Sharp drill
Slow drill speed
High pressure.
What happens if your drill speed is too high, and you’re not using enough pressure on the drill, the work you are trying to drill will “work harden” enough to dull your drill bit, and it wlll just screech and not go through the material you’re drilling.
The ladder tubing is fairly thin, and should drill through using the proper technique in a few seconds. The chips will get very hot, and that’s OK.
Remember, the main key is “pressure”.
Jack
C380 #68
JaxSan
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I’ve had lots of experience with my Yanmar heat exchanger on my 387 and would bet a bunch you need to have it boiled (Make sure the radiator shop doesn’t “cold soak” it. It’s not the same.) I have had mine apart a few times and it isn’t a terrible job to get it cleaned and reassembled. A couple of points:
TIP: Before you remove it, use a straight edge along one row of tubes at the forward end of the heat exchanger and put reference marks on the housing so you can replace it easily. The exchanger will turn easily within the housing but it ultimately has a tab that fits a small hole on the rear cap. Unless you have removed the hoses (which I have found difficult), it is a real pain to get it lined up correctly going back in. If you look at the rear
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I just installed Sirius weather on my C385 Raymarine Plotter. Sirius does a poor job of providing user guides to explain all the features. Does anyone know a good resource to learn all the in and outs of the product?
I had the same issues last year when my Sirius weather was new. When I inquired, Sirius said there were too many models of equipment and each used / displayed their data differently for them to issue instructions. They said see the equipment owners manuals. It took about a year of playing with the unit to figure out what it would do and how to access it. I am still frustrated with the “warm up” time to acquire a signal. On some days it is immediately present and other days it can take as long as 20 minutes.
Jim Sullivan
WASOKI
C-380 #174
Good luck. I have not found a
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