Some C380s have cabinets built into the salon. Most C387’s do have have these but have more portlights along the wall that makes such an installation more difficult.
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We also went to the gore packing and now no leaks. Around the packing is moist but doesn’t drip. During our first year, the bilge pump never seemed to shut off. I thought he keel bolts were leaking and feared the worst. Actually the bolts were NOT the culprit. Persistence pays off; Just work methodically to eliminate all sources. My culprits were excessive packing leaking and NASTY water in the aft hidden keel bolt space, water leaking down the outside of compression post, and water leaking in from the anchor roller. The anchor roller leak led me to the hidden spaces forward of the V-birth and BELOW the space the forward water tank sits. Water was between the liner and the hull. I pulled the tank, drilled a hole for an inspection plate (be real careful here. The space between the liner and the hull is only an inch or
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The following is reprinted from Sailrite and consolidated some information that I thought useful to me and possibly to others:
Although we’re almost certain you’re out on the water enjoying the beautiful sunshine, we thought you might appreciate a guide to selecting the right window material. We frequently get asked the question: “What window material should I use for my project?” Whether you’re working on an enclosure, dodger, sunroom or windshield or adding a window to your bimini or sail, you’ll need to choose a window material.
There are several elements to consider when selecting a window material:
• Optical Clarity
• Scratch Resistance
• UV Resistance
• Stain/Chemical Resistance
• Hand
• Price
Sailrite offers a variety of window materials, and although several of the materials are interchangeable in application, each brand has a varying degree of each element that may help you make a more informed decision. For
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I looked at Tom B’s cockpit table extension which is really a beautiful piece of craftmanship, not to forget the other work he has done on retro-fitting the plastic pieces with wood.
Our approach is a little different based on our experience with the wooden table extension we have for the galley table which is rarely used and I’m forever
worried about scratching it while in storage where ever there is space that day!!
So, for the 3 or 4 times a year that we might need a larger cockpit table, we’ve come up with extension made out of pressed board that I had lying around the shop. I feel that a few coats of white primer and white exterior paint will keep it useable for many years as long as it doesn’t sit in pools of water. Also won’t worry about scratches where ever I store it.
Our preliminary
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I am currently dealing with this issue because of discoloration caused by battery acid from a sloppy installer.
I have found that golden pecan and golden oak from minwax stain and sealer in one are a very close match on our 2005 387.
Ed Wolf
387, hull 82
I’ve added some teak to the cabin In the past and got a very good match. I look for the lightest colored teak wood that I can find and then coat it with Goldstar satin #60. You can’t really tell the difference. I’m doing some work right now where the old TV was. The wood I purchased was a bit darker then what I’ve used in the past and I can see a slight difference from some angles, but it is passable. I don ‘t know if staining is required? The varnish seems to give the correct color to the wood.
Bob
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I use another method for going up the mast that works for me, a big guy whose crew is half my size. Here is my method:
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Yesterday I took a new wind vane and anemometer up the mast (the plastic wind vane is broken). The yard had gotten replacements that looked like exact duplicates from the deck. It turns out that the old instruments (ST60) are attached with a tiny Alan screw on the side whereas the new ones have a small screw in the middle. Upon removing the wind vane we found only a solid stud with an indent for the Allan screw. There was no hole in the center of the stud that would accept the screw.
Has anyone replaced these components, and do you know if the old type with the Allan screw are available? I will head over to the yard later today but it would be nice to be armed with more information. The manual on the Tech CD doesn’t give any part numbers for the wind vane.
Thanks,
Craig Spear
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A number of people have asked about how one might create a timer to keep the engine blower running for some period of time after the engine has been turned off rather than have it stop as soon as the engine is stopped. The following were comments made:
Has anyone wired the blower to work when the key isn’t turned on? It would seem to me that doing this may help cool the engine at the end of the day and not bleed so much heat into the stern cabin?
Just a thought.
Tom Brantigan
C387 #96 Toccata in Sea
tbrantigan@verizon.net
If you say that it helps keep the temp in the aft cabin down I think I may rewire the blower also. How about adding a time delay relay so that the blower stays on for 15 -20 minutes after shutting down the engine? Do you think this will
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Mainsheet September 2012
Jeff Church
Some of us are just a bit obsessive about getting that last quarter of a knot out of our boat. We spend most of our time at the winches and very little behind the helm, which presents a problem. There are no instruments forward of the helm, so how do we know what all that trimming is doing to our boat speed? The usual solution is to have a crew member call out boat speed, or locate a wired repeater somewhere under the dodger. With the proliferation of Apple wireless devices, there is a much easier way to view all of your navigation information from anywhere in the cockpit or even below decks.
The iPad and iPhone have revolutionized many aspects of our lives, and now they are starting to change the boating electronics industry. I discovered this phenomenon last fall at the Annapolis Strictly
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I believe the correct chain size is 5/16 BB. I use 100 ft then spliced onto 250 ft 5/8 rode. Virtually all of my anchoring situations have been with less than 100 ft chain, so I normally do not have to run the splice through the windlass (and potentially jam), In Florida now, I would be lucky to put out as much as 50 ft of chain.
Fred Ganz
Stealing Home
#168 C380
St Petersburg, FL
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