I have the Snake River Ultra 8 Tank Monitor on my C387 #96 and finally after a few years of messing with it finally figured it all out. Originally, the installer wired the blue and red wires backwards on all tanks. (Got that figured out year one and fixed.) Even then the waste tank monitor did not function. That became this year’s project.
What I discovered was this. The holding tank has two strips painted down the side that are supposed to eliminate the need for the foil strips that are used on the other tanks. Onto this was attached the copper foil patches wired to the sensor which was wired to the control head. At least on my holding tank, there was no electrical connection between the copper patches and the conductive strips on the tank. The symptom of this was that the reading was always empty until the
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Where do you folks locate a CO detector? I put one down low near the galley and it went off as soon as I started the engine. Relocated it up high near the vberth, but if it is that sensitive I’m guessing that I will still get false alarms. A friend who owns a C400 had to disconnect his.
My boat has three CO detectors. One in the aft cabin above the door to the head, one in the V-berth above and next to the door, an one in the main cabin above and next to the door to the V-berth.
Here is a composite of several discussions I have had regarding CO and smoke detectors:
LOCATION:
Don’t put the detectors too close to kitchen type of equipment or the motor as a little smoke will set off a false alarm
Height – Smoke detectors should be mounted up high
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What kind of flat screen TVs are being installed, where, and what size?? Are there 12 v units or are you working off an inverter. What kind of signal source are you using? What questions am I too dumb to ask?
I have a 26″ HDTV/DVD combo on the forward port side bulkhead in the main salon. I plugs into the AC plugs which are supplied through an interver when on the hook or shore power at the dock. I have a Shakespeare powered antenna. I previously tried the analog/digital converter box on my original TV but it wasn’t very satisfactory. The new TV setup works well — though we don’t use it much.
BTW: I had a problem with the Shakespeare antenna and they replaced it for free even though I was not the original owner. Great customer service!
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(In response to a request asking for advice on a leaking thru-hull…)
Jack,
I had a leaking seacock on my C380 Hull #5 about 4 years ago. It is important to figure out what part of the seacock is leaking. My leak was between the valve bottom flange and the hull. When I launched in the spring the wood had dried out over the winter and shrunk a little and thus a leak. As the wood absorbed some of the water it would expand and in a few weeks it would stop for the summer. The following fall on the hard I removed the seacock and re-bedded it. It was an interesting project but one I would not attempt in the water. On the other hand, if the leak is something to do with the valve above the base flange it is doable in the water. If it were me,
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From a post on the C-320 list a few years ago on this very problem:
Well this has turned into an interesting project. For those late to the telling, my fuel guage is reading ‘Full’ all of the time, so I replaced my float unit in the tank and that didn’t cure the problem.
With no input from the list on my query as to whether there was any advice other than ‘replace the guage’, I turned to Catalina to order a new guage. They promptly referred me to Seaward where I wound up with Lonnie (562-699-7997 ext. 213). He was extremely helpful to me and when I expressed my intention of posting this report to this list, he volunteered that I should provide his contact information in the event anyone had further questions. They are very proud of their products at Seaward and clearly dedicated to customer service.
It
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Checking the torque on the keel bolts presents interesting challenges. First is the problem of creating a socket that will extend the length of the portion of the keel bolt that is showing in order to reach the 1″ keel bolt itself. Secondly, you need a torque wrench capabile of measuring the required torque. You also need a cheater bar or torque multiplier to exert enough force to achieve the number. I have not found a force multiplier, however, that will fit in the tight space available.
As to how much torque to apply:
“From everything I could research I was aiming for 235-250 ft lbs of torque
Paul”
A few of our captains have created their own wrenches:
On the keel bolt question, if the boat is on the hard it maybe more desirable but I had good luck with mine while in the water. On my C380 hull
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We have installed a new 135% genoa from Rolly Tasker ($1950) and a new mainsail, with Dutchman, from Haarstick (over $3K). Both are Dacron. All of a sudden we can hit hull speed seemingly without trying very hard. Winds this weekend were variable on Long Island Sound, 5 to 18 knots. At around 12knots / 60 degrees apparent we found a wide groove and were romping along at 7.6 knots not really trimmed well. I figured the main was more complicated, hence going with Haarstick (who do a great job relative to fit and quality). Can’t wait to try the new chute.
BTW we swapped out the old vinyl covered wire topping lift for a 3/16 Amsteel Blue line – much better and far lighter. Dutchman is not adjusted quite right just yet, but I’m gald we stayed with one.
Tom (Alchemy, 380, #120)
Last year, I got a new
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Last season I noticed that the companionway hatch was becoming harder to open all the way. I assumed accumulation foreign debris and that a thorough spring cleaning would suffice. When a full force hose flush didn’t help much, I decided to remove the sea hood. To my surprise, upon lifting the sea hood my fingers sank quickly into spongy wood.
What I found was that Catalina uses a one inch wide piece of three quarters thick plywood encased in each side of the sea hood. They did a decent job of encasing it, but then drilled holes through it to attach the piece! Over time water found its way into the plywood, and the rest is history.
The story has a happy ending. Two days of chipping, chiseling, and grinding to remove the offending wood left a nice new
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