Last night was the first night this year we slept on high priority. For the first time ever the bulge pump wet on while we were sleeping. I sponged all the water from the main bilge , no water migrating from the back or front appears to be slowly building around the bolts closest to the bulge pump. Never seemed to have this issue last year I searched some older threads on the web site and see some have had loose bolts in the past. Did you have success in retorqueing while in the water? Sounds as if torquing them on the hard while the weight is on the keel would be better?
Just splashed 2 weeks ago and really don’t want to haul out again if at all possible
Thanks Paul
Hull 170
Bronte
Paul;
Torque away!
Bring them all up to the recommended torque setting evenly and
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Hi,
My throttle has started to slip a bit. If I set it for 2600 rpm, it will slip down to 2400 after a few minutes a hold there. A piece of string held it at 2600 for 2 hours the other day. Is the slippage at the engine or in the pedestal? Is there an adjustment for movement of the throttle??
Thanks in advance.
Bob
Xanadu C380 #243 Pelham, NY
The throttle cable does have an adjusting screw inside the pedestal, which would be the obvious fix for this. Unfortunately, in our case, the navpod is positioned so that the compass cannot be removed without removing the navpod for the chart plotter/radar. It can be done, but takes more than just a few moments. The clamp my wife mentioned to you works great, is visible for inspection and only puts a small amount of pressure on the cable.
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Reprinted from Sailnet: Try these products (for Gel-Coat only not intended for Awlgrip)
Buffing and Waxing: The Cliff Note Version:
Steps:
#1-Clean the hull with an acid base cleaner like FSR, oxalic acid or On & Off to remove rust & tannin staining. (only if necessary)
#2-Wet Sand by hand 600 (if real bad) then move up the grits to P1000+ (only if severely oxidized other wise you can start at #3)
#3-3M Marine Rubbing Compound or Presta Gel Coat Compound (use a wool 3M super buff COMPOUND grade pad like the #05711) (if already fairly shiny start at #4)
#4-3M Finesse It or Presta Ultra Cutting Creme (Use a foam 3M #05725 pad or 3M Yellow Wool # 05713)
#5-(OPTIONAL STEP) Presta Chroma – Use 3M #05725 pad or #05713 or Blue Presta wool pad)
#6-Collinite #885 Fleet Wax Paste Version- or 3M
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Read an interesting article on how radar reflectors actually perform in Practical Sailor a couple of years ago. Seems like the Davis Echo Master that most of us probably have isn’t too good. Read another analysis a few minutes ago that you might want to think about.
I just flushed the system with Peak radiator flush and added new Prestone Premixed Dex-Cool antifreeze. It took about 1.25 gallons of premixed antifreeze. I plan to flush the system every 5 or 6 years and replace the antifreeze every 2 to 3.
Steps were as follows:
I removed the thermostat. It’s your choice on whether to do that. With it removed the engine won’t heat up much during the flush, but you won’t have to wait for it to reach operating temperature and open the thermo on each of these steps.
Drain the antifreeze from the system at the 2 drain fittings. The heat exchanger drain fitting is toward the back of the heat exchanger on the port side (there is a fresh water drain there too). The other antifreeze drain fitting is toward the middle of the engine block on the stbd side. I drained them into the
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Zoned hydronic heating system with three zones (thermostats). One each in the Salon, Vberth, and owners cabin. We turn the master toggle switch on at night before going to bed, and in the morning only need to reach up and move a thermostat to begin heating the boat.
Installed tightly in starboard side of aft locker.
I built and tightly fitting a strong aluminum shelf. Prior to installing the shelf in the boat, I preliminarily installed the heater unit, and the main coolant tank, along with the coolant filter unit vertically. I also installed the overflow tank above it, and an additional buffer tank aft of it outside the starboard stern locker enclosure (almost doubling the systems coolant to reduce short cycling). This assembly is very compact and uses little of the lockers usable storage space. I installed a 4 inch stainless
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Hello all,
My port light was not working after a long trip. I decided to replace both bow lights, port and starboard. The starboard side works fine, but the port does not. I tested with a multi-meter and it only reads 10volts. I checked under the v-berth and see only 2 wires going forward. I guess this is for both lights. Does anyone know where these wires are connnected at? There is no access to these wires without pulling the bow pulpit. Do the screws for the pulpit go only in to glass, or is there a nut beneath?
Thanks,
Russell C380 #20
Hi Russell,
I replaced my bow lights with sealed Hella Led units last year. I wanted to maintain the continuous integrity of the wire on these lights so I did pull the pulpit. My bow pulpit has machine screws that thread into an aluminum plate embedded
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In the vberth.. The lower forward most compartment has standing water…. It seems that water seems through the forward wall which is fiberglass… Behind this wall is unreachable, as it is under the anchor locker. I can only assume that there is a crack in the anchor locker drain hose that ends up filling the space between the bow/hull and the forward wall.. It eventually seeps through… The white coating on the fiberglass has chipped off when I knocked it….Msgr
Has anyone had this issue? Again there is little to no access to around the anchor locker.. Not sure what to do with this one..
-ken c380 #176
Even after the leak is fixed, it is still a good idea to drill a drain hole that goes under the floor of the forward water tank so that any moisture that does accumulate in the very forward compartment will drain
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