New boat to us, and previous owner did not have the knotmeter installed in hull fitting, just the plug was installed. Boat is still on the hard, and bottom of plug has bottom paint on it, which led us to believe that the knotmeter was not working.
Was able to get someone to watch meter while I turned the paddlewheel. Meter is working, but paddlewheel is binding, and I doubt if it would turn at all at very low speed.
Any work that has to be done on the sender unit is highly restricted because of the length of free cable and it’s position in the forward cabin.
Two questions;
1. Has anyone ever cut the cable and installed male and female plugs in order to remove sender from boat and work on it
2. Before I attempt to remove the pin, and ream out hole in the paddlewheel with
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There was considerable discussion on Wing versus Fin Keel, which was best, which had better pointing ability, etc. Here are a couple of the better responses:
On Feb 13, 2012, at 9:56 PM, “tvrf_engr”wrote:
The C380 is on our short list of boats to look closely at once our current boat sells. I’m very skeptical of shoal-draft keels, as our current boat can’t realize a GPS course inside 50-55 degrees off the wind without iron-genny support. Some 380 owners we’ve talked with have the wing keel and report no significant issues with it sailing upwind, while another has quite the opposite view. Of course, the boats that the Admiral is most attracted to have wing keels! Anyway, I’m interested in hearing some more observations as to the performance of the two versions of keels – especially from anyone who has sailed both. We don’t frequent or long to visit any
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Since I’ve not pulled the mast on our C380, I can’t definitively speak to the conduit in the mast. Yet, I’m pretty confident that you can use the old radar cable to pull the new digital cable through the existing conduit. From the diagrams in the manual, the digital cables look to be about the same diameter or smaller. They should be smaller since coax has been replaced by digital signal wires, along the more efficient digital scanner drawing less current.
The Raymarine digital radar manual provides extension cable part numbers. These are likely the appropriate part numbers, but check to be sure.
2.5 m (8.2 ft) extension cable A92141
5 m (16.4 ft) extension cable A55080
10 m (32.8 ft) extension cable A55081
Historically it wasn’t a good idea to splice coax radar cables, but now that the cables are digital, it’s probably not as critical. If you feel
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I installed my digital radar two years ago with the mast down. It was a new installation so new mounting hole in the mast for the cable, tapping holes in the masts etc. It is low enough though to use an extension later to install just above the first spreader and above the deck/steaming light. If you had a makeshift scaffold would save you from being a contortionist.
The Cat 5 cable is functional and I have used it for testing and temporary use, but there are several significant differences. First Cat 5 cable is solid wire and not the best choice on our boat, Raymarine is stranded. The Raymarine has a metal housing which may provide continuity of the shield which Cat 5 does not have. The waterproof outer housing at the chartplotter may be an advantage, as I did get moisture in the connector at the back of
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When we bought our CM38cc the table was placed rather ridiculously about 6″ away from the mast post so was impossible to get around from the forward end. I ruminates for a year on how to correct, all the while NOT relishing the work of building a new table.
As well as being badly placed, it was too low, to the point where it was nearly impossible to skootch your thighs under it.
A light finally went on and I realized that when I added blocking (2 layers of 3/4″ ply) to the underside to raise the table, I could also relocate the brackets to provide clearance at the mast post. It all worked like a charm!
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Mine table is permanently stored at home with the cocktail table, cushions and short tubes. It’s too bad we don’t have use of the berth, but the table is too big and all that gear takes up too much space.
I replaced it with a roughly 2′ by 3′ piece of edge glued oak that I tried (unsuccessfully) to stain to match the teak. I also built a simple wooden sliding mechanism so the new table can be slid toward the bulkhead when you want to access the port-side shelf or blinds, and slid back and locked in place for dining.
Basically, there is a 1′ by 2′ plywood platform attached to the posts in place of the table. It has angled edges on the long sides. The table has angled wooden rails screwed to its underside. The rails keep the table from lifting off the platform, but allow it
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We have 2 Marine Air units 16000 btu and 7500 btu. The larger one is installed under the forward port settee in the salon the smaller is installed in the port closet in the aft cabin. They have work well over the past 10 years. One feature is the humidity mode that we use when we left the boat in the Rio Dulce, Guatemala 6 months each year for 5 years. The boat would be just as we left it in June when we returned in January.
With regard to a generator we used a Honda 2000 for the years we had Up Jinks in Central America. It is quiet and efficient. The only down side is it uses gasoline which we kept in a 5 gallon can secured on the deck. While cruising we would keep the generator in the space between the laserettes just in front of the
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I have a 12000btu mermaid model on my 380. It heats as well as cools. There is a spare slot on the A/C power panel for the wiring.
I installed the unit as you suggest under the aft part of the port setee. The control box is in that area, as well. I draw the intake air from the forward section of the settee and discharge the cool air directly out the side of the settee – towards the nav station. The grill has deflectors so I can move the cold air upwards and to both sides.
I have a number of Hella fans that I use to move the cool air around the boat. I put the intake thru hull in the same compartment as the shower pump and the strainer and water pump in the bilge area adjacent to the thru hull. The outlet is on the port
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My unit is installed under the settee storage area in front of the gally sink with the return cut out in the same area facing the table. I was able to get ducts to all three cabins of the boat but this was a little tricky.
My unit is a 16000 btu unit and came with a 6″x6″x4″ fitting which i mounted right off the unit. So for the main cabin i ran 6″ flex duct through the port side settee it tucked in neatly along side the water tank into the vanity in the vee berth then up to the med cabinet. There is a hollow between the sink cab and the med cab. (look and measure before you drill or cut the holes) mount your adapted for your main cabin inside the med cab, off of that fitting i cut in a 4″ round fitting and ran across
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