A number of members have talked about problems with their furling main becoming difficult to pull out from the mast in spite of following recommendations of keeping tension on the outhaul when pulling it in and keeping the boom relatively at 90 degrees vis a vis the mast.
My experience with the same issue after 8 years of sailing my 387 was that the sail itself had stretched out such that it didn’t roll up tightly and consistently over the length of the sail. This caused a bunching in the slot of the mast. For a while, I had to literally pull it out by hand. North Sails finally diagnosed the problem for me. A new sail solved the problem. Recutting the old one was not cost effective.
I have also experienced the furling mechanism getting stuck when the main halyard is not tight and thus lets the hook on
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Several members asked about expected fuel consumption on a C380. The responses were pretty consistent:
It’s going to vary a bit depending on your prop set up and sea conditions. My typical fuel consumption is better than on the chart Rich shared. It is a matter of RPMs and the sweet spot for consumption versus boat speed for my boat is in the 2200-2500 RPM range. I typically burn ~ .75 gallons per hour in that range and can make 6+knots.
Mike
Morning Glory
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Removing hoses has always been a pain. Here is a suggestion from Kevin aboard Kairos:
After struggling with hoses I bought a hose removal tool from Amazon, OTC 4521 $9, you could probably bend a thick awl or pick, but this does work great.
Others have suggested using a heat gun to soften the hose prior to removal.
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The original question was how to service and lube a thru-hull with the boat in the water. What would happen if you took out the four screws on the inside part of the thru-hull? Warren’s response was something I’d never heard before. The thru-hull comes with a plug that can be used to plug up the thru-hull from the outside.
From post by Warren Elliott:
For disassembly while afloat (those 4 screws), there is a small “plug” extending out from the center of the handle. Pull this out (which reveals the handle’s securing screw)…..it is made to fit snugly in the fitting from the outside of the boat, thus avoiding a gusher. (This does require a slight bit of swimming!).
An additional feature of that plug is its closed circle handle; tie a several foot long string to that handle, securing the other end to a lifeline. Then, when the
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First, I strongly encourage you to keep VC-17 or SR-21 on the boat. In my experience, it is the only type of paint that works well on Lake Michigan slime. And if you cover over it with something else, you will need to take that new paint off if you or the next owner ever wants to go back.
If you are looking to save a few dollars, West Marine private-labels SR-21 as WR-21 and you can usually find it on sale in the spring for under $50. You can apply SR/WR-21 on top of VC-17. Both West and Pettit representatives have told me that the only difference between the Pettit and West versions is the label on the can (and the price).
Either VC-17 or SR-21 are very thin paints so a little goes a long way. We are able to get a coat on with three quarts, including
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