After about 10 years of light use of our shower, the sealant failed at the bottom of the wall in which the shower door is mounted. This resulted in water getting trapped along the bottom edge between the inner and outer seal of that wall. This only became noticeable when I was trying to replace the factory-installed sealant that had started to crack along its full length just below the shower door area in the head area. When trying to remove the old sealant, the Formica covering the area blistered off because the water leak had broken the bond between the wall material and Formica (see Photo 1). The real damage probably occurred during winter lay up when the boat is blocked nose up. This nose-up attitude causes any small amount of water or snow leaking into the shower
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It is hard to believe that summer is over and we are heading into the fall sailing season. We had a late start this year due to family matters. Then the proliferation of 100+ degree days made sailing and any exterior projects very uncomfortable. In fact, I just got my new 135% genoa up, which was delivered in April, on a relatively cool day this past week and used it for the first time today. Definitely makes tacking down theYork Rivermuch easier and adds about 5 degrees pointing capability versus the old, baggy 150.
I will report that one of my winter projects has performed wonderfully over the summer. That project was adding a vent in the starboard lazerette with a 12V pancake exhaust fan wired to run with the refrigeration compressor. This simple project has completely eliminated the “boat smell” that used to emanate from the
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The engine water strainer was originally located under the berth where it was extremely difficult to reach, which can be dangerous in an emergency. The same was true for the primary fuel filter. The water strainer was replaced (and exchanged against an all plastic Vetus model (no rust) into the engine compartment. It sits now just above the waterline and can be easily cleaned without closing the sea cock. The fuel filter was brought outside the berth and a cover was made to protect it from being accidentally hit. The cover also makes a nice stool in front of the mirror. The stool is not too deep, thus still enabling a unobstructed passage between mirror and berth. Under the stool is a place for spare fuel filters and a prime pump in case the filter has to be primed.
Editor’s notes: The Racor relocation shown is based
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I replaced the 1” pedestal guard with a Navpod 1.25 inch. It included the feet while the Edson feet are extra cost I believe. I got the AG126 which is about a 13 inch offset. I think I could have used the AG125 which is about 9 inch offset and reduced the footprint over the table. I had a C90W on the lower angled section and the instrument pod on the upper section of the pedestal guard. I also replaced the plate below the compass with the one from navpod which is stainless. At first I tried to drill the aluminum top plate but did not get a clean hole. Also by using the Navpod stainless steel top plate I will not get any galvanic action. It is isolated at the compass with gaskets. (Navpod TP125 top plate and was about $85
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When I purchased my 1999 C-380 in 2008, the steering was very tight. I later determined someone had greased the lower rudder bearing with petroleum-based grease, which is very detrimental to Marelon, the material from which the bearings are made. Petroleum grease causes Marelon to swell, which caused the bearing to contract on the rudder post. My only option was to replace at the minimum the lower bearing. What follows is what I learned in the process, and how I did the replacement. The notation [WP] refers to information I received from Warren Pandy at Catalina inLargowhen he helped me determine the problem and what I needed to know to fix it…thanksWarren!
First off, there are two bearings on C380’s and C387’s, upper and lower, plus a mid-shaft packing gland. Here are some specifics about each:
[Editor’s Note – See Catalina
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Last November’s Mainsheet lead article opened this subject, an important one affecting all of our boats. At the time, a C380 captain had reported on our Yahoo chat list a complete disconnection of the forestay from the stem fitting during brisk sailing conditions. Luckily, he was sailing downwind, so there was little adverse pressure on the rig. He was able to get the genny down, lash down the flailing forestay, and tie-in a couple of halyards to secure the mast. The captain noted that the 5/8″ clevis pin was gone. The pin normally secures the forestay to the stem fitting, and is held in place by a cotter pin. He also mentioned that he had noted that all was secure, including the cotter pin, a few weeks earlier.
I checked my rig and noted that the clevis (or “toggle”) had wandered a bit
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Repair of the C-380 Cockpit Table Leaf Support Bracket
by Steve Riddle
Mainsheet, August 200-9
The cockpit table leaf support on the C-380 will eventually separate due to chafing of the internal cord that connects the two support tubes. The cord is also spring loaded: (1) to make it easy to snap the two support pieces together one handed and (2) to keep the two support pieces snugly together if someone bumps the underside of the table leaf. Because the male and female tips are crimped into the body of the support tubes, replacing a broken cord is not normally possible since the cord ends are located several inches down inside the support tubes. Thus, the only apparent option when the cord chafes through has been to buy a replacement support from Catalina.
Yes, if your cord has broken, you can continue to use the support, albeit with some difficultly
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These are a couple ideas from Bob Bierly who captains CMON WIND, C380 #255 out of Reedville, VA.
Forward Shore Power Inlet
All C380’s came with a 120 volt shore power inlet, usually mounted on the transom on the starboard side. This is not a convenient place to run dock power to when traveling, particularly if you prefer to dock bow first into a slip. To simplify this, I installed a 30 amp shore power inlet in the anchor locker facing forward in the vertical fiberglass face under the windlass controls. Photo #1 shows the location.
Running the #10 by 3-wire 120v cable back to the electrical panel was simple because that area behind the wooden panel at the forward end of the vee berth is directly open to the molded chase along both sides of the boat. Just run the new cable along the starboard
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Sometime in 2000 or 2001, the Catalina 380 Mainsheet Tech Editor did the unthinkable: he purchased a different boat!! This apparently shocked me into raising my hand when the Commodore asked for a replacement editor. And so began my tenure, starting with one big article on our through-hull valves – this in the August 2001 issue.
Since then, I’ve been amply rewarded with plenty of help including all sorts of articles about upgrading our boats. Most of this came through our very active email chat group, formerly on Sailnet, now sponsored by Yahoo. There have also been many more technical articles – a few of these affecting boat – and also personal safety. I’d like to emphasize the safety aspect, encouraging all of you unhesitatingly bring up any related situation or aspect of our boats.
But it’s time to give another the opportunity, as Admiral Jeanne has
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I am very pleased to be taking over as Technical Editor for the C380/387/390 Association. I had considered taking the similar position back when I owned my C34, but work and other commitments prevented doing so. Being “semi” retired now allows time to take on other interests. I’ve done a lot of “hands on” work on my Catalina 22, 34 and 380 over the last 25 years (with an unmentionable “H” boat in there too). Plus I have read, and maintain a file of, countless technical articles from various sailing and boating magazines over the years. So I hope I can bring my knowledge to bear on your problems.
Warren has been doing a wonderful job as Technical Editor and I thank him for his service to the Association. Even though he is “retiring” as Technical Editor, he remains active in the Yahoo list so we will
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