Genset Installation
Tom McMahon
8/1/2002
Hull #: 29
I recently had the Panda 4200 installed. It is in the starboard lazarette, as close to centerline as possible and oriented with the long axis of the genset fore and aft. This allows me (6′ 2″ and not the most limber person in the world) to sit alongside it, remove the covers and access all the user maintenance items. The genset is mounted on two engine-mount-like stringers, which are glassed into the hull (avoid any mount on top of a solid board – it makes the entire hull into a drum!). The optional Panda soft motor mounts are installed on the stringers, and the Panda case is then bolted to those mounts. I have the Raymarine 6000 autopilot, and the genset does not interfere with it.
The installer modified the case so that I can change the oil filter (strainer) without disconnecting
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Several of our 380/390 captains on our Sailnet email discussion group have in-mast furling and have mentioned how they like the arrangement. Some of those without this feature, including me, have usually responded with some “buts”: but there are no battens [so less sailing efficiency], but there’s less sail area [46 sq. ft. less: about 13%], but they jam, but, etc. Some said that a better alternative is in-boom furlers, which have become a lot more reliable, and are much less expensive to retrofit. Of course, buying a new Catalina with either system installed is better than retrofitting; here, in-boom costs more than in-mast. [For the latest on in-boom furlers, see Practical Sailor, Oct. 1, 2001].
I had seen some 380’s with in-mast furling, but had not really dug deeper. Then Earle and Barbara Ellefsen [C380 # 271 “Valkyrie”],
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Lazarette Shelves
Hal Breliant 3/20/2002
Hull #: 325
The storage lazarettes under the aft port and starboard seats aren’t extremely usable as each is a 5′ 6″ high vertical shaft. I wanted to add a shelf that was easy to open to allow access to each well. In the starboard well, I glassed 1-1/2″ treated lumber to the back of the well across the forward wall of the stern-platform locker at 1-1/2″ above the height of the lip on the cockpit /deck joint lip which is forward within the well.
Spanning the top of the joint lip and across the bottom of the glassed-in 1-1/2″, I ran two 1-1/2″ treated members to act as a front to back support for a forward transverse member. There are too many obstructions to use the lip surface as the forward transverse support. It helped me to run these past the glassed-in member one
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There’s been a good deal of discussion on this topic in many places, including our Sailnet email discussion group. I have my own opinions [these are not endorsed by Catalina], generated by many years working with antennas/electronics for military aircraft. However, as lightning protection is so uncertain — there are no guarantees — it’s a good idea to review some reference material, so you can make a so-called informed decision as to what, if anything, to do. This whole topic can be pretty controversial: I invite [as always] any comments, contrary or not.
The basic reference is the ABYC lightning protection standards [section E-4], which are included in your C380/390 manual [note that a 1998 change requires minimum grounding/bonding conductors to be #6]; it’s also available at www.abycinc.org. Another reference is Professor E. Thomson’s [U. Fla.] extensive website at www.thomson.ece.ufl/lightning/. On the
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This is a follow up to my article in the August Compass. I had originally intended this space simply to mention some additional items on this subject, but recent events have forced a change, as you’ll see below. Sail magazine [Aug. ’02] contains two appropriate articles; one of them suggests putting portable electronics in the oven when a storm is likely–probably a good idea. Note however, that the door seals are non-conductive; a couple of rolled strips of aluminum foil wedged into the door/frame gap should help.
Now to bigger news, at least to me. A few weeks after my lightning protection article was published, I got zapped!! This has to be the ultimate irony! And my external protection system was not in place! My only excuse:
no significant storms were predicted. Man, did NOAA and local TV [and me]
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I managed to crank my chain rode into the windlass about a month without destroying the chain stripper and chain wheels. Being under warranty, I called Maxwell in Cal. After a minor lecture on greasing the windlass, Maxwell did step up and fedex’d overnight the required upper and lower chain wheels in a subassembly, which I was able to drop in as directed. Two observations: one, Maxwell responded very well and, two, the greasing of the windlass, indicated in the operations manual to be annually, should be three times annually according to the manufacturer’s rep. His comment was: if you grease the windlass, it will never give you trouble. Err with too much grease as opposed to too little. Use waterproof grease like lithium based.
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You are probably aware that Catalina started putting Yanmar 40hp model 3JH3BE diesels in later C380s. My hull is #255 and has this engine. After about 450 hours on the engine, I started getting big-time water leakage thru the seals on the pump. The local Yanmar dealer in Cocoa Florida (where I was when I finally started looking for replacement seals) informed me that:
(1) that pump shouldn’t leak with that few hours of wear and,
(2) that he had encountered several pumps on the 4jh and 3jh Yanmars that were assembled at the factory without a required mechanical seal. Bottom line for me was that the dealer removed the pump, confirmed the internal mechanical seal was not installed, rebuilt the pump and reinstalled it all under warranty.
The only fly in that ointment was that the dealer
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I would like to share this with the other owners. I saw this idea on other boats at shows and Linda really liked it. I told her I could buy a bigger boat or make one. In the C380, the sink is built with a lip all around it, so I measured and made some plans. At West Marine, I purchased a piece of acrylic (12″ x 27″) #479736, $28.99 plus tax. From this acrylic, I cut two pieces that fit on the lip of the sink, which supports these pieces. On the left piece, I cut the curves using the cutting board as template. On the right piece, I cut out a “U” shape for the fingers to fit in to lift the cutter board. In each piece I drilled a 1″ hole for a finger to lift out the acrylic.
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STEERING, BOOM HEIGHT, CLEATS, GPS
Wolfgang Doebel, Warren Elliott
2/1/2002 Hull #: 336
The following was emailed to me from a new 380 owner from Canada:
Hello Warren, Have you ever come across one of the following? Do you have any ideas to help?
The steering mechanism on my C380, at times seems, to get partially hung up, especially when moving through the neutral position. The problem is not severe but it takes out a lot of fun from steering. Also one must always expect some problems to happen if the cause of the concern is not fully understood. There is an Autopilot ST6000 plus connected to the rudder post, but it does not seem to be the cause, as the problem does not exist when traveling under power alone (no pressure on the rudder, not much tension on the cables). I have investigated the mechanical condition of the
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Storage for the Bar, New Trash Container, and New Hatch Board Holder
Ed and Sharyn Dahn 2/1/2002
Hull #: 111
Storage for the bar.
The next issue was where to store liquor bottles. The setup for the waste basket (next to the sink) seemed to be really poor. The waste basket was very small, and some trash always missed the basket and wound up in the area where we stored pots and pans. We decided to throw out the trash container and to use the compartment to store bottles. This works really well, six large jugs and a couple of small ones fit nicely in the space. We intend to install a shelf above the bottles and enclose the sides. This will be accessible by lifting up the cutting board in the counter top. It will be used to store knives and cooking utensils.
Making room for the new trash
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