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Cabin Galley Pole

Cabin Galley Pole
Scott Brear
2/17/1999
Hull #: 0

One of the problems with large volume cabins is that they can be somewhat awkward in a seaway. What do you hold onto? We have added several teak handles throughout the cabin to match what Catalina had originally installed. This included an additional handle at the companionway port side and at the main cabin-forward cabin door.

A bigger issue is helping people pass between the saloon and the companionway in a wild seaway. We installed a stainless 1-inch diameter pole between the coachroof and the galley countertop. This gives the crew an obvious place to grab when “falling down” the companionway in a blow.

Without it, they may go rolling through the cabin! Of course, they should always go up and down this ladder facing aft, but…

In order to remain clear of the companionway slide above the galley, the pole

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Filter Pressure Drop Gauge

Filter Pressure Drop Gauge
From January 99 Mainsheet
2/1/1999

This might be a good time to bring up the issue of fuel filters. Either we clean them regularly (and most of us probably do not) or they slowly clog up and interfere with proper flow to the engine, maybe when the engine is most needed! It would take only one bad batch of fuel to clog the filter.

Consider adding a fuel suction meter in the line between tank and fuel pump. This meter will give you an absolute indication of the pump suction required to bring fuel from the tank. Mark the pressure with a clean filter and, when it increases, check the filter. The cost of installation and parts was about $120.00. It can be tee’d into the fuel line anywhere and does not require fuel system bleeding. Not too bad for peace of mind whilst at sea.

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Fuel Tank Size

Fuel Tank Size
Scott Brear

2/1/1999
Hull #: 31

I spoke with Jerry Douglas about this long suffering problem. According to Jerry, all tanks up to boat 177 were 27.5 gallons as determined by outside measurement allowing for wall thickness, etc. Boat 178 will have a 34.3 gallon tank. The new tank can be retrofitted via a drop in; ie, no fiberglass work. It costs $322.35 FOB factory.

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Niffty “Starboard” Projects

Niffty “Starboard” Projects
Forrest & Suzie Lott

2/1/1999
Hull #: 90

We have all seen this white plastic material being used throughout the marine industry. It forms the aft perch seats of our own 380’s. Forrest and Susie Lott have put the material to excellent use in several projects on their Andiamo. Forrest mentioned that the material is very easy to work with using normal woodworking tools. He discovered that it does not glue well, so he made up all joints with countersunk screws.

First, they increased galley surface space immensely by adding stove and sink covers. The sink board has been built in two pieces so that they can work on one part and still access the sink.

Their next project was a motor mount for the outboard. It needed to be tall enough to keep the foot of the motor from striking the deck when hung on the

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Night Light

Night Light
Scott Brear
2/17/1999
Hull #: 0

As nice as it is to have dome lights that can be switched to red for improved night vision, the present system could be improved for serious cruisers. How many times have you or crew accidentally switched a light to the white side? I took a page out of the Catalina 42 book by adding a 42-style red cabin sole-level light to the starboard side of the galley cabinet. This provides an excellent way to always be ensured of shining red light onto the companion way and the immediate area, essential for proper nighttime safety. Dave Peffer, hull #20, Spindrift, has also added a night light just above and next to the commode, on the side of the sink cabinet.

This permits crew to go below and take care of business without turning on any lights, at all. These lights can be

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Westerbeke Water Heater Upgrade

Water Heater Upgrade
From January 99 Mainsheet
2/1/1999

An upgrade is available from Westerbeke to improve engine-sourced hot water.

This moves the hose connections for the hot water heater from the original port side of the engine to a set of connections at the water pump and thermostat. A new fitting is required for the thermostat housing tap. The water pump housing has an extra tap that can be used. Samantha (#31) has been configured in this manner and the hot water whilst cruising has been very nice indeed.

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Anchor Chain Specifications

Anchor Chain Specifications
Dave Peffer
8/1/1998
Hull #: 20

The Maxwell windlass manual calls for using 5/16″ short -link’ chain. They have kindly clarified this, and recommend A.C.C.O. 5/16″ high test chain spliced to 5/8″ 3-strand or multi-plait nylon anchor line. If you want to use the windlass’ ability to handle both line and chain on the gypsy, a short, tapered splice is required on multi-plait and a full three-part splice (all three strands going through the chain link) is recommended for three-strand. You may get more information or order pre-spliced chain-rode combinations from Maxwell: 1610 Babcock St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627, phone 714-631-2634.

Please note that 5/16″ proof-coil chain, the kind most commonly available at boating stores, slips on the Maxwell gypsy and is VERY DANGEROUS to use. 5/16″ BBB chain fits the gypsy perfectly, but it is not as strong as the chain recommended by Maxwell.

Whether you

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Anchor Locker Washdown System

Anchor Locker Washdown System
Dave Peffer
5/1/1998
Hull #: 20

Dave Peffer, Hull #20, ‘Spindrift’ has installed a SHURflo Blaster washdown system to clean the chain and anchor as they come aboard. The pump fit on the forward bulkhead under the v-berth sink, taking water from the sink drain. The sink drain plug fits tight, and prevents sucking air when the system is activated. Be sure to replace the drain tubing with non-collapsing hose, which must also be used for the run from the tee to the pump. Double clamp all hose connections. Dave opted not to put a filter in line before the pump to keep pressure high, but will add one if the pump clogs. The hose and electric wire go up through the hole in the cabinet above the sink (used for the amidships water tank fill and vent) with a little extra reaming, then forward in

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Anchor Windlass Circuit Breakers

Anchor Windlass Circuit Breakers
Earl Poe
10/1/1998
Hull #: 140

I have received a copy of a letter dated 10/15/1998 from Catalina regarding the anchor windlass circuit breakers on 380’s and 400’s. Apparently, some boats left the factory with 80 amp. breakers in stead of the 135 amp. It’s only a problem under high loads, but all should check. The red PUSH-PULL bottom button has the capacity stamped on it. Should you have the 80, contact Ralph Torres @ Seaward.

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Boom Vang Boom Attachment Problems

Boom Vang Boom Attachment Problems
George Ciechanowski
9/1/1998
Hull #: 66

Something to keep an eye on is the screws that attach the boom vang to the boom.

The fitting on the end of the vang is secured with two screws and nyloninsert nuts. One of the nuts backed off and released the end of the fitting at the boom. The other screw was still in place but its’ nut was loose. Luckily I noticed the loose fitting before it did any major damage to itself or the boom.

Since the vang is in the way of tightening one of the screws I replaced both screws with hex head bolts, washers, and new nuts (you should not reuse nylon insert nuts, they loose their holding power). You gain access to the nuts by way of the inspection plate on the boom but to get to the forward screw to remove

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