The pivot at the mast end of the vang turns on a pin held in place by only a cotter pin through the center. Nothing else holds it in place, and the cotter pin is liable to shear, dropping the pivot pin completely out of the fitting and releasing the vang from the mast. Pending a ‘fix’ for this problem, please check the cotter pin for wear and replace it at least once each season.
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You will want cabin fans in many places, and the Hella turbo-fans draw so little power that it is reasonable to do this. The fan(s) in the v-berth should be installed as far forward as possible blowing aft, promoting airflow through the boat. One excellent spot in the main saloon is just forward of the chart table, where it can blow across the head and shoulders of the navigator, then across to the galley, where it blows heat from the stove away from the cook. Other locations will suggest themselves. We have three fans in the aft cabin. On our boat there was a free ‘Cabin Fans’ switch on the panel.
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Condensation in the Refrigerator
Jim Jaeschke
9/1/1998
Hull #: 73
On Electra we started noticing in our second season a lot of condensation on the tops of cans in the top part of the refrigerator and also on the top of the refrigerator itself. We performed the dollar bill test which is closing the top cover of the refrigerator with a dollar bill located between the cover and the rubber seal. We found that the dollar bill pulled out easily in several locations along the perimeter which showed that the rubber seal was not touching the top. It was probably compressed from my putting a heavy tool box on the counter. A new one was installed.
I also checked, as suggested by other owners, the junction of the counter top and the top of the refrigerator. I found as they had, a gap that could leak air. I sealed the
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The anchor locker provides no place to install a chain lock, which is required to keep the anchor locked on the roller underway. I made one up as follows: a short length of 3/16″ stainless wire (length depends on the length of your anchor stock) with a lifeline pelican hook (West Marine model #543132, which adjusts in length) swaged on one end, a stainless thimble nice-pressed on the other. A galvanized shackle attaches this to the bitter-end padeye in the anchor locker. The pelican hook goes through a chain link as close as possible to the anchor, and the adjustment on the hook allows this to be snug. The anchor is not going to fall overboard. This can also be used to snub the chain and allow you to transition the chain to the gypsy while raising the anchor if you do
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Dock Line Storage
Jim Jaeschke
5/1/1998
Hull #: 73
We made a locker for storing dock lines by removing the starboard holder for the spare propane tank. This opened up a large spot for dock lines in the unusable spot underneath the deck. If you do this, it is important to seal this area off since water can pour into the boat. We did this by fiber glassing in plywood walls to totally seal off the interior of the boat. The drain hose used for the spare propane tank locker was then fitted to this new compartment.
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Dock Side Water Connection
Dave Peffer
7/1/1998
Hull #: 20
A few weeks ago we were asked by the Coast Guard to display a life jacket for each passenger, requiring us to take one of the PFD bags out of the lazarette. The gal who put it back in didn’t see that sneaky blue tube, and hung up the bag on it, then pushed extra hard. Result: the right-angle fitting from the regulator cracked. When we fired up the fresh water to do dishes the pump ran on and on, but we had no pressure. It took awhile to find this blasted leak!
I have temporarily plugged the end of the tube after removing the fittings, but have to replace the thing if I ever want to use the dockside connection for water. Those who have not (yet) broken it can avoid the problem by disconnecting the blue tube, turning
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Dodger Alternative
Dave Peffer
10/1/1998
Hull #: 20
Those of us on lakes less massive than the Great ones usually don’t need a dodger, but would like to keep dry when it rains. I needed a bimini (this is not an option, but a survival item in Texas), so I had the canvas shop make up a windshield. It zips onto the forward edge of the bimini and attaches to the coachroof forward of the companionway and just aft of the traveler with a plastic track/bolt rope setup identical to a dodger’s. This works like a charm and stores in a felt-lined tube in the lazarette when not needed.
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Dutchman/Boom Lift
Dave Peffer
11/1/1997
Hull #: 20
Earlier hull numbers have an adjustable two-part boom lift designed to permit setting up the Dutchman exactly. This has a nasty tendency to shake out of the cam cleat at the end of the boom, and re-setting it with the sail luffing is no picnic. I opted to set the system up perfectly, then whipped the two parts of the boom lift together just above the cam cleat. No more loose line and the whipping can easily be cut when necessary.
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Many of us have noticed that the Catalina 380 fridge needed a bit more insulation to make it effective. The factory fix has been appreciated and worthwhile. I also felt that the placement of the compressor is in a rather vulnerable position in the bottom of the port lazarette. Objects could be dropped on it or it could (and would) be stepped on.
On Samantha we moved the compressor to a shelf glassed into the area between the port propane locker and the hull. This required new copper plumbing and a refrigerant recharge, but there was plenty of unused space. Now it is safely out of the way and still easily accessible. To make certain that it has adequate ventilation we installed a stainless vent between this area and the aft cabin, which is probably a good idea whether the compressor is
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