I need to replace a cockpit table leaf brace on our 387, as the cord broke. Searched our group and found conversation on replacement part for 380. Found it at ugly fish company which distributes for southco.com called a “click stay” for $44.30 each. Can anyone tell me if they used the same size/part on both 380 and 387? Want to be sure to order the right part. and at this price don’t want to get it wrong.
Natalie Speicher
No Fear
387 hull #3
Thank you all for the information on the cockpit table leaf supports. Found them in three places. Ugly fish: $44.30 ea. Catalina Yachts: $41.50 and Catalina Direct, part #Z2664 for $26.83. Will try the repair $1.00 fix first, but good to have a back up.
Natalie Speicher
S/V No Fear C387 #3
I’ve actually repaired the struts on Rhythm’s cockpit table. Remove.the bracket and you’ll see one end unscrews. Remove that
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I am in the process of replacing the forward water tank vent in my 200 Catalina 380…After some research, including input/advice from the group; I did the following:
Installed a 10 “ circular inspection port on the starboard side of the anchor locker;
Replaced broken vent with a new perko 5/8” vent with 90 degree bend (where vent pipe attached to vent hose).
I looked into a plastic forespar vent but they did not come with a bend on the inside of the hull…I was concerned abut a kink in the water tank vent hose after connecting with the vent. The perko vent appeared to be an exact replacement for the broken vent.
Several captains have suggested the following sources for replacements of the stainless caps to the various tanks. Most of the sources below require you to buy the whole fitting. Defender sells just the cap. To me, the chains are dangerous and just beg to have the cap go over the side. JMO.
This source sells just the cap without the rest of the unit:
I fly an asym tacked to the anchor roller all the time. Trust me, at some point you will fly it in more than 12 kts. I run the tack line from the cockpit through a block with swivel shackle hooked to a heavy line tied tightly around the anchor roller itself (the rubber roller part) This allows me to get the tack much lower than using the bale and it keeps the load off the bale.
But Fair winds, Mike C380 #77, Debbia Racine, WImore importantly I suggest adding a Bobstay. As is, the anchor roller is designed to accept down force, without a bobstay, the upward load from the asym tack will eventually work the anchor roller loose from the deck and cause leaks. In extreme cases it can bend it or even rip it out. You’ll be surprised at how much load there is on the tack
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We have one and we are very happy with it. I don’t use it much but when I need it, I NEED it. We generally turn it on when entering a marina just incase we need it and it is a nice safety net to have.
Ours is a Vetus Model 6012B and it is installed in front of the forward water tank. The previous owner had it installed by Engineered Marine Systems in Annapolis. The invoice was for $7,000 ($3600 in labor).
Let me know if you need anymore information.
Mike Gilmore
s/v Morning Glory, C380 #34
In April, we installed (ourselves) the Yacht Thruster 230 Simplex (ExTurn). The kit was $6300. We spent another $1200 or so on miscellaneous materials for the project and haul-out. While I agree with Mike that we don’t use it often, it is pretty amazing when we do. We have notice little to
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[Editor: Much discussion on this topic. Here are a few pictures of such installations…]
Batteries sit in a fiberglass box. Box usually has walls only and when fitted in place, they build bottom inside of it.
I had to cut part of the floor above the box, between stern wall of the box and stairs. Floor can be cut and battery box can be extended to fit four 6V batteries. There is no need to change anything on floor boards. When you remove battery box lids with the attached floor boards, you will notice that floor under is not flat.
Regards,
Mario
Here is a picture I found on internet. It is very much like mine. I can put in four 6V batteries from boat centerline toward starboard side. There is still space left on the starboard side for one more battery.
I’ve attached a picture of the 4 Trojan
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My terminal strip is not numbered so I call pin/ terminal #1 = green/ black wires (adjacent is heavy red wires). Color a/ color b denotes color on engine side / color on panel side. ( this is for Westerbekes; Yanmars should be the same functionally, but colors on engine side may be different. Westerbekes see P 48/49 of engine manual)
-12 v / ground. Green/ black
+12 v Battery Red/red
Temperature sender. Yellow / brown
Tach sender. Brown / grey
Glow plugs. Violet / white
Not used. Orange / not used (Oil pressure gauge option)
Alt./ ignition. Red white / purple. (see term. 9)
Starter. White / yellow red
Alarm power. Pink / not used (tied to 7)
Not used. Grey / not used ( charge light option)
Oil pres switch. Lt. Blue / Lt. Blue black
Water temp switch. Tan / tan black
To complete on cockpit
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I had a leak in my front hatch last year. Mine was leaking under the frame and not from the gasket. Luckily the core was dry since it was dripping down between the frame and inside trim piece. The PO has removed the frame and put some silicone between the trim piece and coring. An extra 1hr of work he could of sealed the core for good. So I recommend coring out all around the hatch and not just the screw holes with epoxy or resin. I found this dremel cutting tool very helpful. Run the shaft along the fiberglass using it as kind jig. It will cut out about an 1/8″ just enough to seal the core.
Taping a sheet of plastic on the inside will catch the coring and drips from the epoxy. Also it would be a good time to paint the inside trim piece, I found
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