We had troubling leaks with our forward hatch leaked as well. Gaskets or bedding are generally the source. After addressing the gasket issues, it still leaked, with water leaking out of the inner hatch trim strip. I repeatedly tried Capt Tolley’s Creaping Crack Cure, as was suggested, but it didn’t work.. Finally I broke down and pulled the hatch. I found that the screws Catalina used to install the hatch were too short, which caused quite a bit of flexing along the hinge line. The flexing was great enough to cause the fiberglass skin to de-laminate from the deck core. Catalina also didn’t seal the hatch mounting holes with epoxy to isolate the deck core from leaks, luckily the core was in good shape. I ended up drilling holes, injecting epoxy, and c-clamping the de-lamination to repair it. Finally re-bedded the hatch using longer 1 /1/2″ screws and Sikaflex 291
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The attached picture shows one way to access the anchor well hose. I didn’t actually replace the hose because when I got in there I could tell that it wasn’t the culprit. I had the Admiral run the hose in the well while I felt for leaks at both ends of the hose. I don’t think the hose is reachable without an access hole. I could have replaced the hose through this access hole. The hole looks kind of raw in this picture but I finished it by putting a six inch deck plate in it and covering it with the teak plywood panel.
Paul McManus
Sea Sea Rider C380 #185
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We have a mini 1200watt heater from west marine. We have used it for a few years mostly on the starboard circuit. We put it on the port circuit this past weekend and it caused a fire on the white wire going to the block on the starboard wall behind the breaker panel. The end of the wire that was on the block burnt clear through. This line came from the shore power breaker and went directly to the wall panel. The wire was a 12awg but the main breaker is 30 amp. The breaker does have two connections…so I was wondering if it breaks down the amps into two 15 amp lines? If not then the wiring is undersized! 30 amp should be on 10awg.
I replaced the burnt wire with a 10awg and tightened all of the other connections as well. The breaker never tripped… The only two
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40511 for the rear. They are virtually the same spec other than the rears are designed for a bit more weight. This is for the Westerbeke 42b four with a Hurth transmission.
Westerbeke’s original part number for the 42b is 36341 however Catalina had different mounts spec’d for this motor in our boats. I managed to get a pn off one of the original ones and dealt with the wb dealer here in Ontario. The 40510/40511 were originally used on the 35b Westerbeke.
Westerbeke shows no stock if you plug the number in on WB main website but according to my guy they have 25 currently in stock and it is a stocked item.
I decided to stay with OEM parts as they lasted this long and easier to swap out with the same re measurements height etc. About $180 piece
Paul
C380 hull 170
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All our dodger windows are removable, makes for good ventilation and easy winter storage
Use polycarbonate glass in the dodger, visibility is superior to standard material, only drawback is that they do not roll up
Grab rail is a must
Cover for the window to view the sail in the Bimini is opened and closed from the inside with the actual cover on the outside
Zipper on the connector to the dodger should zip from the outside to the center providing easy access from either side when boarding
Frame for the enclosure mounted on the stern rail minimizes additional holes in the fiberglass
Brace leading forward on the enclosure provides hand support when getting on an off as well as a brace to lean on when flaking the sail at the end of the boom
Side entrance windows of the enclosure are secured to the enclosure to
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Has anyone replaced the original equipment Seaward 11 gallon hot water tank? If so, how hard was it removing the old one, and with what did you replace it? I think mine might be starting to corrode.
Steve Klegman
C380 #113 Folie A’ Deux
We just replaced ours about two weeks ago. Seems like a lot of them are failing. It came out pretty easily. We disconnected the plumbing from the bottom of the sink and that made it pretty simple to get it out. We went with an eight gallon IsoTherm as a replacement. Seems to work great. Insulation appears to be much better than on the old Seaward. Good luck with it.
Wayne Phillips
C380 #67
Steve – we replaced ours 2 years ago with the exact same unit. It took a solid half day from start to finish.
You have to totally empty the space beneath the
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After calls to two distributors and to Yanmar USA, the answer is that it is a M16-1.5, which happens to be almost but not quite the same dimensions as a 5/8th, fine thread.
Don’t force the imperial nut onto the mount stud.
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When my compressor failed I went for a completely new system. I installed a Isotherm SP system. It is very small, no fan, no pump. The power draw is much less and there is no noise! Makes the aft cabin more peaceful. I installed it on a shelf, high up under the galley sink and no one even knows it is there. The only down side is that the boat has to be hauled to install.
Here are three photos of the Isotherm installation. One is of the freezer section across the outboard section of the upper shelf in the fridge. I made a solid base and lid for it from starboard. We’ve had stuff frozen in there for weeks. The second is the compressor under the sink. The potable water pump is bigger. The third shows the PVC pipe that I ran the refrigeration lines through behind the stove.
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I had an interesting conversation with a friend and 320 owner about standing rigging inspection and replacement. We began by him suggesting it was time to replace the lifelines on his 2001 320. We moved to the standing rigging after he told me that the person he spoke to at Catalina told him they recommend replacement every five years. He contacted the current provider of the rigging and they recommended every 10 years.
My question is; how long is too long to have the rigging replaced? Our boats are in So Cal, and in the water all year.
Wes
Spring Fever
C387 #53 (2004)
Marina Del Rey, Ca
Wes
Interesting topic. I’ve heard from several not necessarily definitive sources that rigging in the Puget Sound area tends to last longer due to our rainy climate that continually cleans it. Most people up here are pretty comfortable with 20 year old
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[Editor: Also see post of refrigerator door replacement.]
We appear to be getting a lot of condensation from the main forward facing fridge door. It is the original door and as far as I can tell the original door seal. I did the dollar bill test and it seems as if there is not a lot of drag on numerous spots around the seal. Has anyone replaced the seal on the door before? If so was it successful? And where would you get a new seal? I have seen in the photos that some have upgraded the complete door assy with the stainless steel version. Is this a better option long term and a successful fix? Is the door exchange/replacement a perfect swap or what is involved in that project?
Thanks,
Paul
Hull 170
Maybe I should take some pictures when I am at the boat this weekend. I added
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