I have also been fighting the refrigerator door. It has to be defrosted weekly. The gasket material had been replaced by previous owners with weather-stripping. The hinge side gasket gets pushed off when you close the door, our door is warped from latching down at the top left corner with a noticeable gap around lower right corner. I was looking at a screw down hatch latch for the lower corner and decided to order the stainless steel door with commercial latch from Catalina. (I passed it off as a birthday present for my wife…she LOVED it) It is a special production part based on your hull number and was ordered JUST LAST WEEK! I can’t wait to get it. Cost is $505 plus shipping (Gulp) but over the next 10 years or so there is no doubt we will appreciate it.
John
C-380 #105
Lucky Star
Factory Supplied Fridge Door
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You have probably seen the ads in Boat US magazine and other boating pubs for Affordable Hardtops and listing a website www.hardtotop.com. The product shown on the site both in a photo gallery and in sketches is basically a bimini top (mostly for power boats) constructed of hard plastic translucent polycarbonate (2 ft by 8 ft ?) sheets fitted together fore and aft with a proprietary aluminum extrusion and attached to your preexisting SS or aluminum bows. The top is is sold as a kit for DYI or local fabrication. My question is simple. Has anyone here on Yahoo groups done one of these kits or have any experience with the company behind the ads? Having worn out two canvas biminis in 14 years this has some appeal. Comments?
Bob Bierly
CMON WIND #255
Bob;
The product looks very much like a product from the Architectural skylight industry that
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Before you pull the old hose out (through the under sink cabinet) drill a hole in it and attach a line at the tank end. If the hose jams, you can pull it forward again to release it. Then attach the line to the new hose and use it as a guide, have someone pull gently while you push from under the sink. That way the new hose will not go where it wants, but rather where you are guiding it. Use enough new hose length so that you can cut off the few inches with the holes in it. Yes two holes so that you can arrange the leed line to be in the center of the hose. Some tape, creating a cone also helps to guide the hose.
Bob Xanadu
c380, #243
Might help to spray outside of new hose with silicone or Teflon. Warren
[Editor: This comes from a long-time C380 owner. The content should be of interest to members given the experience of Bob Bierly who sent it to the list serve.]
Folks,
As a “public service” to those few east coast sailors who may be looking to make that first big trip south, I pass along this semi commercial message from publishers of the best anchor and waterway guide publications I have found. (Barbara and Doug Leinhard on SV Melinda Kay might want to comment). The message says it all.
Bob Bierly
From: diana@semi-local.com To: bojabierly2@aol.com Sent: 9/1/2014 5:54:24 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time Subj: On the Water ChartGuides Update: ICW AnchorGuides SECOND EDITION Now Available
On the Water ChartGuides Update: ICW AnchorGuides SECOND EDITION Now Available
Hi Bob,
This summer we were thrilled when Practical Sailor magazine, the “Consumer Reports” of all things marine, awarded our Cruise Guide and Anchor Guide series
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The following was published by Catalina, at the end of the article is information provided by Russ Monaco who has done the job. Included are photos on how to brace the window while the adhesive dries.
Remove the old window by first cutting around edge then slowly cutting or prying until the window comes away from deck.
Scrape or sand away all old adhesive/silicone on the deck’s gel-coat, finish with 40 grit sand paper then wipe away all dust.
Do a dry run by positioning the new window in place with the help or masking tape and trace a pencil line onto the brown paper of the inside of the window as it will be installed.
Cut away the one inch or so protective paper on the perimeter of the inside edge of the new window. (Note: maintain paper coating on the outside and inside center to protect it from
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The C380 came with two versions of Garhauer mainsheet travelers; the 1st generation has the control line coming through the upper part of the rail and thence through a cam-cleat mounted on a plate that is sandwiched between the rail and the sheave-box below the rail. The 2nd generation traveler, which came in 1999 sometime (likely around the mid-100 hull numbers), uses the same rail but employs a SS plate mounted atop the rail with a similar cam-cleat. Both systems require that the traveler lines pass through the isinglass of a dodger, and require the pass-through to be vertically slotted to accommodate releasing the line from the cam-cleat. This project will move the traveler cam-cleat inside the dodger for both generations of travelers. When it came time to replace the canvas on my boat, I wanted to get rid of the slot
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Our 2004 387 was delivered with an athwartship aft bed. As advertised it was very long and my wife Linda and I fit in it quite well lengthwise. I am 6 ft 4 inches tall (or long depending if I’m vertical or horizontal) and had plenty of room. The issue of my wife and I using the head in the middle of the night caused us to think about changing the orientation of the bed to a centerline configuration.
Our boat is in a slip in Marina Del Rey, California, with access to the folks still in this area from the former Catalina factory. We started talking to our rigger, who does most of the commissioning of new Catalina’s at our dock. We talked about how we could extend the platform so we could fit in the bed back to front. We also needed our Webasto forced air heater vents
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I wanted to let everyone know that I was able to find a current supplier. Ocean Equipment (in Bend, Oregon) has begun manufacturing them again. You can’t find them on their website, but you can order by phone.
Randi Harry & Dr. Sam Balsley Barca a Vela|
2001 Catalina 380 #322
Sausalito, CA
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Our water tanks started to leak when over filling. Instead of the water flowing out of the hose that should ventilate the tanks it pushes out of the lid. We also noticed that there is a vacuum in the tanks after use. The hoses are free, without kinks and there is no water standing in them which would prevent air to flow through them. Somebody suggested to clean or even remove the little screen at the end of the vent. That seems like a good idea but I can’t figure out how to get to that screen. From the inside I can only see the fitting that connects the hose to the outside and from the outside there is that little vent cover which I can’t remove.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Sonja
S/V Moondance
C380 #366
Sonja,
I’ve been working on these very problems this week aboard Sea
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I am in the process of buying a new stanchion also. Catalinadirect.com has them. Only problem is they are of a different design and the post through bolts all the way through the fiberglass toe rail. It is a stronger design, and the brace to the lower deck has screws in 1 1/4 inch on center. Old one is about 2 and a half. I have removed the stanchion, filled old holes with epoxy and may get a small stainless steel plate to camouflage old mounting brace holes. I think the gate stanchion is $140.
For other parts you can also check with Catalinayachts.com parts department. They don’t have an on-line catalog but you can tell them what you need. They like a picture. Contact Lisa who runs the parts department. Lisa@CatalinaYachts.com Unfortunately, my shore power plug shorted out over the winter and we had a small fire scorching the
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