Just a heads up all the Charleston Spar (Sparcraft) replacement parts have all been moved to Rig-rite in RI.
Thanks,
Steve
C380 #93
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The prop shaft is 1.25 inches.
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These are the spars that I know about:
Early: #1 thru >80 ZSpar (I believe, what you have?)
Mid: <117 thru >304 Charleston
Later (?): >304 Seldon (?) I’m not positive but I think they were all Charlestons til the end (Jay Saxton will know)
I have no idea on 387’s but I’m pretty sure there are Seldon’s as people here have spoken of them. [Editor: My C387 #96 had Charleston Spar]
What I do know is that #117 (at least) through my 199, and probably beyond, have the same masthead casting pictured in the Mainsheet article I did a couple issues ago showing the spinnaker crane installation. I know Paul on 170 has it too. That is the OC2 (Ocean series, number 2) masthead and was used way back in the 80’s on Isomat spars too. Charleston bought Isomat at some point and continued using the castings and extrusions.
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FYI for anyone interested. the pic below is one of the rear main halyard sheaves. As you can see the one side is worn right off. the previous owner had oversized halyards and as you can see bigger isn’t always better. so if you are finding the main harder to hoist or it’s not dropping as easily have a good look at the sheaves. I replaced all 6 with ones from Garhauer with bearings as well as new axles from Rigrite.
Paul
hull 170
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Had a port light leak that ruined my chart table. I think Target Enterprises is out of business, or bought by someone else.
Anyone have luck matching the color from the 380, Hull 140 era?
Earl Poe
Angel’s Wings, 140
earljpoe@swbell.net
You can find it at Catalina Direct.
Clay Greene
C387 #30
Cattywampus
Milwaukee, WI
I just bought some from these folks. I called Catalina and they told me about this people.
http://www.finishingzone.com/product/emtech-em2000-waterborne-alkyd-varnish/
Bob
C380 2002 #349
“At Last”
Brian, Catalina used the satin finish so that’s what I bought. So far I am very happy with the product.
Bob
C380 2002 #349
“At Last”
This information was received recently from Catalina Direct.
Our Satin Interior Varnish was used on Catalinas built from 1995 to 2001. It cures to a very hard, clear film without the use of secondary catalysts. A Semi-Gloss version of this varnish
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While my mainsail is at the sail makers for minor repairs we were discussing adding a third Dutchman line. As with many of the C380’s my boat came with only two Dutchman lines which often results in the sail flopping off the boom at outer end. Here are some highlights of our discussion and I am hoping for guidance of what has worked with others.
1. First we discussed just adding a third Dutchman line behind the current after line. At first the sail maker thought that was a good and economical solution. I tend to agree but want to ask if others have done that or if I will be unhappy. Another advantage of this is that I only need to make one modification to the sail cover which is in great shape.
2. The best solution that is more than I want to spend is to move both
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We purchased a new main last year from Mack Sails in Florida and decided to switch from Dutchman to Mack Pack w/ lazy jacks. Very happy with decision. After sail drops into Mack Pack (bag) it still requires some adjustment but once that is done we just zip up the pack and don’t have to deal with putting on a sail cover. Mack Pack is superior to other such systems. Sail and Pack are independent of each other so no mods to sail needed. Also pack is open at bottom (2 halves clip together under bolt rope of main ) so it does not collect water. We installed it ourselves with no difficulty. .
Stefan Leader
Diva II
380 # 327
Alexandria VA
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The consensus is that the bolts should be tightened while boat is on the hard but several have done this in the water and successfully stopped leaks.
Can the keel, bolts be tightened with my 2005 Catalina in the slip in the water. I think I might have a slow leak going on. If I they r below torque Specs could that help. What would be the best procedure?
Thanks
Edward Wolf
San Pedro,
California.
Hi Ed,
From everything I’ve read, it should be done out of the water when the weight of the boat is resting on the keel. I’ve always done it just before launch, when hopefully everything is dried out.
The recommended torque is 235-250 ft-lbs.
If you were to try it in the water, the weight of the keel would be hanging on the bolts and the torque required to lift it up would be greater
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What success is there with bimini-top mounted solar panels? Needs are around 300 watts p/day. Manufactures of panels and mounting systems? And what you do it again? Thanks
Mike Goodnough
Summer Place, 387#18
Your unit of measure for your needs is confusing to me. Don’t you really want to ask for a certain amount of energy (W-hours) to be delivered on a daily basis? I suppose you could come up with a simple model and derate the peak wattage generated by the panels less any conversion losses (to generated ~12V for charging the batteries) and multiply it by the number of hours you expect on average to have decent sun.
I’ve not looked at this myself but perusing the web just now and I see most panels are rated in either/both amps and watts for their maximum output. Their outputs are unregulated and peak voltages can be much higher
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I was looking at an 18 RH 12 three blade feathering propeller considering a Gori since it reports to have a motor sailing feature.
Wondering if anyone has any experience or opinions.
Dennis and Cindy Sikkema – Holland MI
SV Genesis
1999 C380 hull #143
I had a Gori 3-blade on my 387 #53 and had it taken off. It vibrated the entire aft section of the boat. I replaced it with fixed 3-blade. To be technically correct though, Gori is not a feathering prop, it is a folding prop. Our current local dealer recommended a Maxi 3-blade should I decide to get another folding/feathering prop. Others on this list have Flex-o-Fold and love them. I had one on my 320. It was a great prop.
Wes Giles
C387 #53
Spring Fever
Marina Del Rey, CA
No experience with the Gori but I have a Flexofold 17 x 11
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