A few years ago I converted the Seaward engine control pod on my C380, hull #199, to the NavPod EP162 pod that NavPod supplied to Catalina for use on some later/other models, and was apparently designed to be used with the Yanmar engine. The EP162 is very nice as its sleeker looking and aims the instruments upward for a better view from the helm, and NavPod is selling them for $99 right now (ad in current Mainsheet). The gauges used with the Westerbeke all swap over perfectly and most holes are pre-cut. This project is likely applicable to other Catalina models that use the Edson pedestal and the older Seaward pod. Here is a rundown of the project.
First off, my boat was fitted with two wiring tubes from the cockpit sole up to the original pod. The port side tube contained all the engine wiring and kill-cable. The starboard
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When we moved up from our Catalina 30 to a 380, the extra room and ease of boarding certainly made life easier for us, especially given our crew includes a 50lb Portuguese water dog. The two nice state rooms and ample salon means there’s even room for friends. This allowed me to justify a larger more stable RIB to carry all the people, pets, and supplies. While the 11’ RIB tows well, its bottom quickly fouls with growth if left in the water. I also don’t like hoisting a 120 lb. RIB on and off foredeck, squeeze around it, or trying to spot objects in the water over it. Towing the dinghy also overly complicates arrivals and departures, or docking, since we must reposition the dinghy often. My initial inclination that davits weren’t in our future dissipated quickly, and it
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John Welch, Dragon’s Lair Hull #7, League City, Texas
My wife and I are preparing our boat for cruising once we retire. One of the modifications we felt we needed was a wash down pump which, when we have chartered, we have found a useful tool.
I purchased a Jabsco Washdown Par Max 4.0 Washdown kit model 32900-0092 from West Marine. The current price at West Marine is $199. The pump produces 4.0 GPM. When I purchased the boat, I had a ¾” bronze full flow safety seacock/thru-hull installed just forward of the keel which provided a water source for the system. If hauling the boat to install a thru-hull is not an option, another approach would be to place a “T” and a shutoff valve in the water intake for the AC unit. You will need hose, stainless steel nuts, washers and bolts, clamps, sealant, and electrical wire to
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I replaced the 1” pedestal guard with a Navpod 1.25 inch. It included the feet while the Edson feet are extra cost I believe. I got the AG126 which is about a 13 inch offset. I think I could have used the AG125 which is about 9 inch offset and reduced the footprint over the table. I had a C90W on the lower angled section and the instrument pod on the upper section of the pedestal guard. I also replaced the plate below the compass with the one from navpod which is stainless. At first I tried to drill the aluminum top plate but did not get a clean hole. Also by using the Navpod stainless steel top plate I will not get any galvanic action. It is isolated at the compass with gaskets. (Navpod TP125 top plate and was about $85
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The engine water strainer was originally located under the berth where it was extremely difficult to reach, which can be dangerous in an emergency. The same was true for the primary fuel filter. The water strainer was replaced (and exchanged against an all plastic Vetus model (no rust) into the engine compartment. It sits now just above the waterline and can be easily cleaned without closing the sea cock. The fuel filter was brought outside the berth and a cover was made to protect it from being accidentally hit. The cover also makes a nice stool in front of the mirror. The stool is not too deep, thus still enabling a unobstructed passage between mirror and berth. Under the stool is a place for spare fuel filters and a prime pump in case the filter has to be primed.
Editor’s notes: The Racor relocation shown is based
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My boat did not come with any type of latch or bumper to keep the head door from swinging into the shower doorframe. So the door was always left closed. However, while in a seaway, the latch would work and the door would eventually swing open. The head door handle would then start banging into the shower door frame and eventually put a dimple in the shower’s aluminum doorframe. This did not seem healthy to any of the parts involved. I evaluated the cost and appearance of standard doorstops available in marine and hardware stores. Nothing looked right and the marine stuff cost well over $50, more than I wanted to spend. After some creative pondering, I came upon the idea of using a white eraser. I cut it to a pleasing shape and mounted it to the shower
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I get tired of the tangle of genoa sheet tails in the cockpit. They usually end up at the ends of the “T”, but they still get under foot and in the way. I also find the cockpit bins are too far forward to stow and easily reach winch handles from the helm area when tacking short-handed. I started looking at various options for pre-made sheet bags and various winch handle holders, but did not find anything that fit the bill. I have a canvas sewing machine so I also looked at making the bags mysef, including a kit from Sailrite. However, I quickly figured out I could just buy the materials and save some money versus the kit. Plus I could custom fit the bags to the “T” ends and include a pocket for the winch handles to
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As we provisioned IdleWild, our 2008 C387, for our first summer cruise, it was apparent that we would miss the ample refrigerator capacity that we had on our previous boat, a Catalina 320. I didn’t see any alternative but to put a large cooler in the aft cabin, at the foot of the berth. That cooler turned into a real nuisance. It tended to slide around underway, it was a trip hazard, and it had to be drained and restocked with ice every other day. On that 6-week trip we used the locker next to the galley sink for dry storage, but I started thinking about converting it into a second refrigerator. It was an attractive idea; the locker and lid are already insulated, but it would take considerable effort and expense to install a second compressor. Then, this spring, I
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Many of us have struggled with what to do with the stock C380 helm seat insert. It is too low to sit on while steering the boat, the rubber hasps do not hold the insert securely enough (just step on the rear lip to see what I mean), and it is cumbersome to handle when you want to access the stern step. Several skippers have considered the “Helmseat” advertised in Mainsheet. Bob Bierly, our Association Secretary/Treasurer and who skippers C’mon Wind, shares his solution:
Attached are a couple photos of my helm chair. Photo 1 – “The Chair” shows my complete seat assembly in place. Photo 2 – “Chairbase” shows the wooden box (or bridge) I built to replace the factory provided fiberglass seat insert behind the helm, to which is mounted a simple fishing seat. The bridge also allows fore and aft
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These are a couple ideas from Bob Bierly who captains CMON WIND, C380 #255 out of Reedville, VA.
Forward Shore Power Inlet
All C380’s came with a 120 volt shore power inlet, usually mounted on the transom on the starboard side. This is not a convenient place to run dock power to when traveling, particularly if you prefer to dock bow first into a slip. To simplify this, I installed a 30 amp shore power inlet in the anchor locker facing forward in the vertical fiberglass face under the windlass controls. Photo #1 shows the location.
Running the #10 by 3-wire 120v cable back to the electrical panel was simple because that area behind the wooden panel at the forward end of the vee berth is directly open to the molded chase along both sides of the boat. Just run the new cable along the starboard
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