Improving the C-380 Single Line Reefing System Tom McMahn 8/1/2004 Hull #: 29
Many C-380 owners have complained about the single line reefing systems installed on our boats. I am no exception. The reefing system installed on many modern Catalina models, like those on most other production boats, is difficult to use and results in less than satisfactory reefed sail shape. Rigging the boat so reefing can be done from the cockpit is a great safety goal, but the implementation leaves a lot of room for improvement.
Tom McMahan clew block side
The friction created by the reefing line twice passing through the reef cringles, and that in all the blocks used to turn the line back to the cockpit, make taking a reef a real chore. Perhaps even worse, the same friction points make shaking out the reef nearly impossible without help from the halyard winch. [Note: any reef
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More on Spinnaker & Jib Poles Warren Elliott 5/1/2004 Hull #: 44
As a follow-up to Steve’s article, I did some further enquiries on spinnaker/jib poles and cars. For the older C380’s with Z-Spar masts, Julian Crisp at US Spars [was Z-Spar, tel: 386 462-3760] indicates that, for the standard [non-furling] mast, the cost is about $250 for a car and short section of track. They also sell the same track in a long version [4 meters], for those who want to store their boat’s pole on the mast. US Spars’ furling mast uses a simpler approach in which the car can be added directly to the mast groove, and is about $170; installing this car does not require stepping the mast. They also sell complete poles with fittings, at better prices than the big catalog stores, per Julian. [But remember that shipping long items means that a trucking company
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Basic “Go-Fasts” For The C380 Steve Dublin 5/1/2004 Hull #: 84
We’ve found our C-380, “Caretta” (hull # 84), to be a very able club racer, particularly in offshore events. When her skipper and crew are reasonably attentive, she can sail to her 120 PHRF rating.
The stock Catalina 380 comes well fitted out with sail handling gear. However, there are some basic “go fasts” (racing equipment), which can be easily added, to help the boat sail her to her full potential. I’ve described a few of these “go fasts” below along with some installation tips learned the hard way:
Adjustable Backstay
The C-380 does not have a “bendy” rig. However, a pincer block assembly (Photo 3), connected to a 4 to 1 block & tackle, will allow you to tighten the forestay and point a little higher in moderate sea conditions. You don’t have to drill any holes for
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Engine Preventive Maintenance George LaForge 5/1/2004 Hull #: 147
Recently, on the SailNet C380 discussion list, there was mention of chaffing of engine hoses. You’ll appreciate the minimal expense and time involved in adding chaffing protection to your engine’s cooling and fuel hoses. If you need to purchase a replacement hose from Westerbeke or Yanmar, be prepared for sticker shock.
To protect the hoses, buy a few feet of one-inch diameter clear hose and a package of eight-inch plastic wire ties from Home Depot or Lowes. You’ll be surprised by the amount of hose needed. Inspect every hose for potential contact with other objects. Where one does touch [or might with vibration], cut a piece of the clear tubing long enough to protect the engine hose, split the tubing length-wise, and secure the tubing to the hose with a couple of wire ties. Trim the ties using wire cutters.
On
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As a follow-up to Steve’s article, I did some further enquiries on spinnaker/jib poles and cars. For the older C380’s with Z-Spar masts, Julian Crisp at US Spars [was Z-Spar, tel: 386 462-3760] indicates that, for the standard [non-furling] mast, the cost is about $250 for a car and short section of track. They also sell the same track in a long version [4 meters], for those who want to store their boat’s pole on the mast. US Spars’ furling mast uses a simpler approach in which the car can be added directly to the mast groove, and is about $170; installing this car does not require stepping the mast. They also sell complete poles with fittings, at better prices than the big catalog stores, per Julian. [But remember that shipping long items means that a trucking
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The following is from Earl Effelsen –Warren I have always kept a fuel log for our 2000 C380 (#271), Valkyrie, and know that fuel consumption can range from 0.6 to 1.0 gph (average 0.85 gph) depending on conditions. I am also well aware that the stock fuel gauge is not linear and that, although my tank is rated at 34 gals, when the gauge reads 1/4, there are only about four gals remaining. So, I was particularly annoyed when I recently ran out of fuel despite my calculations indicating that I should still have another hours worth of fuel.
At about this time, I saw an ad for the Cruz Pro FU30 Smart Fuel Gauge and ordered one from the e-Marine, Inc. web site for $169. This gauge learns the shape of the tank and, via its digital readout, can accurately
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The oil filters on both of our fleets engine types [Westerbeke and Yanmar] are horizontally mounted, resulting in some oil spillage when changing filters. This remote adapter allows you to relocate the filter so that its feed/return end is up, avoiding any messy spills. Further, the filters location on our Westerbekes is a bit awkward, as Captain Earl Poe so aptly describes below, so the remote filter also allows for a much more “ergonomic” location. –Warren
The idea of a remote location for mounting an oil filter was first investigated by Tom Lincoln on Ridge Runner, so he gets the credit. The servicing of our oil filters is, to say the least, awful! Mounting the filter in a vertical direction on an easily accessible bulkhead would save time, knuckles, and the environment. Covich-Williams (800-833-3132) of Seattle sells just
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Automating Refrigerator Startup and Shutdown with a Battery Combiner George LaForge 2/1/2004 Hull #: 147
We only run the refrigerator on Freebird when power is available from a charging source. That source is either dockside power or the engine alternator. I try never to run the refrigerator only from battery power. [George- maybe your fridge needs an insulation upgrade; Catalina has a procedure for installing expandable foam–Warren].
Not wanting to run down a battery, yet at the same time wanting to keep beverages cold, we developed a routine: as soon as the engine was started someone would need to go below and switch on the circuit breaker for the refrigerator. And after the engine was shut down someone would need to go below and switch off the breaker. Most of the time the problem was remembering to switch the breaker on when the engine was started.
One day while researching
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Filters for Drains George LaForge 2/1/2004 Hull #: 147
Regular cleaning of the inline shower bilge strainer is a task that is easily moved down a to-do list. The strainer’s out-of-sight location under the head sink and the difficulty in twisting the filter can contribute to a lack of cleaning. A simple, next-to-nothing cost project to prolong the cleaning interval is to silicone caulk a piece of nylon window screen over the drain in the shower stall. A quick wipe of the screen with a piece of tissue removes materials and hair that would otherwise be trapped in the under sink strainer.
Measure and cut a piece of nylon window screen the same dimensions as the shower’s stainless steel drain cover. Run a thin bead of silicone caulk around the edge of the drain plate and a few of the bars in the grid. Press the screen onto the drain
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Basic “Go-Fasts” For The C380 Author:Steve Dublin Date: 5/1/2004 Hull #: 84
We’ve found our C-380, “Caretta” (hull # 84), to be a very able club racer, particularly in offshore events. When her skipper and crew are reasonably attentive, she can sail to her 120 PHRF rating. The stock Catalina 380 comes well fitted out with sail handling gear. However, there are some basic “go fasts” (racing equipment), which can be easily added, to help the boat sail her to her full potential. I’ve described a few of these “go fasts” below along with some installation tips learned the hard way:
Adjustable Backstay The C-380 does not have a “bendy” rig. However, a pincer block assembly (Photo 3), connected to a 4 to 1 block & tackle, will allow you to tighten the forestay and point a little higher in moderate sea conditions. You don’t have to drill any holes
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