Here is a discussion from members using Honda Generators:
We recently moved our Catalina/Morgan 380cc to South West Fl (Punta Gorda) from Long Island NY. When we lived on Long Island we only occasion ly needed air conditioning. This time of the year down here it is almost a necessity every night. The problem is it rains many nights down here as well. I am able to run the air with my Honda 2000 and I normally put the unit on the swim platform or up at the base of the mast when in use. So my question is can the Honda be exposed to a down pour or should it be covered. I know that some of you store the Honda at the mast, do you cover it and what do you do in the rain?
Thanks
Clint Stoddard of SuSea Q
Clint,
I store my Honda at the
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(The following article is reprinted with permission from the Catalina 320 group.)
According to Wikipedia, “A preventer, or jibe-guard, is a mechanical device on a sailing vessel which limits the boom’s ability to swing dangerously across the boat during an accidental jibe. The uncontrolled jibe (or gybe) is feared by all sensible yachtsmen. The heavy boom can potentially inflict severe head injuries or dispatch crew members over board; even the mainsheet or traveler can also inflict serious injury. Uncontrolled jibes may also damage the boat itself.”
On Sea Shadow, a Catalina 320 (#808), we take the threat of the uncontrolled jibe very seriously. While I have always secured the boom to a forward deck cleat when sailing any lower than 120 degrees apparent off the wind, it was not until I had the opportunity to sail with Orlando Duran on his Catalina Morgan 44 that I learned a better way
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We were heading out on our annual trip to the San Juan and Gulf islands and found that the Radar wasn’t working. We have had to go in fog the last couple times and decide not to go without radar. Raymarine doesn’t make the old non digital raydomes anymore. They will service the old raydomes for $575. But it will take several weeks. The new digital Raydomes are not compatible with my RL70C chartplotter so I am considering buying the E7 and a new Digital Raydome. I would love to hear comments from anyone who has this setup. Specifically how it works with the old Seatalk 6000 plus autopilot, depth, wind, and speed instruments.
Paul McManus
Sea Sea Rider C380 #185
Port Orchard, WA
Paul,
I do not have the radar but I bought a new c125 this year. It’s the same family as the e7 just bigger and without
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On my C387 #96, there is a blower switch on the engine control panel at the helm that has always baffled me. It simply gives you control over the blower when the engine is running but doesn’t allow you to control the blower when the engine is not running. Personally, I can’t see a reason why I would want it turned off at all when the engine is running. I would always want it on. Then again, the plastic cover on the switch is clouded over enough that you really can’t tell whether the switch is turned on or off so your only indicator is hearing it come on when the ignition switch is first turned on.
I want the blower to always run when the ignition is on but also want the ability to turn it on independent of the ignition switch. When I arrive at an anchorage and
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The following is reprinted from Sailrite and consolidated some information that I thought useful to me and possibly to others:
Although we’re almost certain you’re out on the water enjoying the beautiful sunshine, we thought you might appreciate a guide to selecting the right window material. We frequently get asked the question: “What window material should I use for my project?” Whether you’re working on an enclosure, dodger, sunroom or windshield or adding a window to your bimini or sail, you’ll need to choose a window material.
There are several elements to consider when selecting a window material:
Sailrite offers a variety of window materials, and although several of the materials are interchangeable in application, each brand has a varying degree of each element that may help you make a more informed decision. For
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I looked at Tom B’s cockpit table extension which is really a beautiful piece of craftmanship, not to forget the other work he has done on retro-fitting the plastic pieces with wood.
Our approach is a little different based on our experience with the wooden table extension we have for the galley table which is rarely used and I’m forever
worried about scratching it while in storage where ever there is space that day!!
So, for the 3 or 4 times a year that we might need a larger cockpit table, we’ve come up with extension made out of pressed board that I had lying around the shop. I feel that a few coats of white primer and white exterior paint will keep it useable for many years as long as it doesn’t sit in pools of water. Also won’t worry about scratches where ever I store it.
Our preliminary
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A number of people have asked about how one might create a timer to keep the engine blower running for some period of time after the engine has been turned off rather than have it stop as soon as the engine is stopped. The following were comments made:
Has anyone wired the blower to work when the key isn’t turned on? It would seem to me that doing this may help cool the engine at the end of the day and not bleed so much heat into the stern cabin?
If you say that it helps keep the temp in the aft cabin down I think I may rewire the blower also. How about adding a time delay relay so that the blower stays on for 15 -20 minutes after shutting down the engine? Do you think this will
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Some of us are just a bit obsessive about getting that last quarter of a knot out of our boat. We spend most of our time at the winches and very little behind the helm, which presents a problem. There are no instruments forward of the helm, so how do we know what all that trimming is doing to our boat speed? The usual solution is to have a crew member call out boat speed, or locate a wired repeater somewhere under the dodger. With the proliferation of Apple wireless devices, there is a much easier way to view all of your navigation information from anywhere in the cockpit or even below decks.
The iPad and iPhone have revolutionized many aspects of our lives, and now they are starting to change the boating electronics industry. I discovered this phenomenon last fall at the Annapolis Strictly
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I believe the correct chain size is 5/16 BB. I use 100 ft then spliced onto 250 ft 5/8 rode. Virtually all of my anchoring situations have been with less than 100 ft chain, so I normally do not have to run the splice through the windlass (and potentially jam), In Florida now, I would be lucky to put out as much as 50 ft of chain.
Fred Ganz
Stealing Home
#168 C380
St Petersburg, FL
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