Like the author of that article, after installing the Weaver davits I had a minor problem with the tail of my 8.5 foot dinghy dragging when sailing with a fair amount of heel. I had positioned the davits so that when sitting in the dinghy I could slide the the davit hoops on the dinghy right into the clips on the transom. This spring I raised the davit plates about a 4″, re-using the top holes in the transom. I can’t say for sure that this fixed the problem, but it wasn’t much of an issue in the first place. I’m sure this will be good enough. I don’t have a picture on my Picasa site that clearly shows the installed height of the davits. I’ll take a picture of the transom this weekend and post it with my other davit pics.
I believe the proper wiring setup is to have the foot switches control a solenoid with low amperage while the solenoid passes the high current to the appropriate motor terminal. It also eliminates the possibility of passing the power to both terminals simultaneously (ie, pressing both foot switches at same time won’t damage anything). I recall seeing the wiring diagram somewhere, perhaps in the Maxwell manual.
Tim
C380 #199
Tim++,
Yes, the most “proper” method is to use the solenoid/switch box, not because the high current is switched by a heavy solenoid/relay, but because it avoids the caution you and I mentioned..actuating both up and down simultaneously. As I also mentioned, I’ve never had this problem in about 12 years of anchoring, at least several times/year.
This could also be accomplished by a separate spdt switch, but unsure if an appropriate one is available.
The solenoid/switch box approach does
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Firstly, let me state that in my past I’ve built and flown 3 full size aircraft, built and maintained several race cars…and am still on this planet to talk about it.
I mention this because what I intend to do requires some switch modifications that I have the ability and resources to accomplish.
Not making these mods and using the switch improperly could have serious consequences.
So, as they say, but not in Latin…Buyer be aware.
As stated earlier I went to boat this morning, and as Warren mentioned in his post, the motor will reverse if power is put to the spare terminal. This was easy to test.
Did an Internet search for heavy duty battery switches, and kept coming back to a battery selection switch as we all have in our boats. Stopped at West on way home and for about $40 picked up a Blue Sea m-Series
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Where do you folks locate a CO detector? I put one down low near the galley and it went off as soon as I started the engine. Relocated it up high near the vberth, but if it is that sensitive I’m guessing that I will still get false alarms. A friend who owns a C400 had to disconnect his.
My boat has three CO detectors. One in the aft cabin above the door to the head, one in the V-berth above and next to the door, an one in the main cabin above and next to the door to the V-berth.
Here is a composite of several discussions I have had regarding CO and smoke detectors:
LOCATION:
Don’t put the detectors too close to kitchen type of equipment or the motor as a little smoke will set off a false alarm
Height – Smoke detectors should be mounted up high
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What kind of flat screen TVs are being installed, where, and what size?? Are there 12 v units or are you working off an inverter. What kind of signal source are you using? What questions am I too dumb to ask?
I have a 26″ HDTV/DVD combo on the forward port side bulkhead in the main salon. I plugs into the AC plugs which are supplied through an interver when on the hook or shore power at the dock. I have a Shakespeare powered antenna. I previously tried the analog/digital converter box on my original TV but it wasn’t very satisfactory. The new TV setup works well — though we don’t use it much.
BTW: I had a problem with the Shakespeare antenna and they replaced it for free even though I was not the original owner. Great customer service!
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Read an interesting article on how radar reflectors actually perform in Practical Sailor a couple of years ago. Seems like the Davis Echo Master that most of us probably have isn’t too good. Read another analysis a few minutes ago that you might want to think about.
Zoned hydronic heating system with three zones (thermostats). One each in the Salon, Vberth, and owners cabin. We turn the master toggle switch on at night before going to bed, and in the morning only need to reach up and move a thermostat to begin heating the boat.
Installed tightly in starboard side of aft locker.
I built and tightly fitting a strong aluminum shelf. Prior to installing the shelf in the boat, I preliminarily installed the heater unit, and the main coolant tank, along with the coolant filter unit vertically. I also installed the overflow tank above it, and an additional buffer tank aft of it outside the starboard stern locker enclosure (almost doubling the systems coolant to reduce short cycling). This assembly is very compact and uses little of the lockers usable storage space. I installed a 4 inch stainless
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I use the head sink drain as a source of fresh water for flushing the head. I added a Y diverter valve to the head inlet hose. In one direction the valve connects toward the existing head inlet thru hull, and in the other direction it connects toward the sink drain hose. Also added a one-way fitting to the sink drain hose just above the thru-hull so lake water can’t be sucked in when flushing. In fresh water mode I turn on the sink faucet, let the sink fill a bit, and then flush the head. If I want to use lake water (or salt water in your case) turn the valve in the other direction. Works well.
In 2004, I got a Tempurpedic mattress custom shaped to replace the original from Tempur Marine, which is apparently now Artisan’s Mattress http://www.artisansmattress.com/ . Some of the best boat bucks I have ever spent. Still loving it today.
