I converted the shelf under the sink on “My Girl” #213 to a secure 6 bottle wine rack, with appropriate inclination, and 12 bottle divided bottle storage area. The insert is removable if needed, but is very seaworthy in protecting the valuable contents thereof.
I created removable storage bins for the right cabinet of “My Girl” #213 to protect and organize the various cooking utensils. The upper bin locks in place with the shelf lip while the lower extends out to the cabinet door. The upper bin is divided so that sharps are isolated. I also put a divider in the two standard drawers for silverware.
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I need a new bimini and dodger. On the dodger I do not want the “wavy” flex ‘glass’… As that is my visibility to the bow…
I got some quotes which I found to be very high, has anyone gotten this done recently? What is a average ballpark number that I can expect to pay?
$2000 for the dodger with 60 gauge polycarbonate in forward 3 panels.
$1540 for binimi
$615 for matching main sail cover
$425 for zipper connector between bimibi and dodger
This is all using the existing frame layout.
Does that seem reasonable? Seems high to me…
Comments?
-Ken
c380 #176
Ken,
I’ve been making canvas for just over four years, including the frames. I’ve made three bimini’s, two dodgers, a full enclosure, several dinghy covers, and lots of other covers, bags, etc. I’ve spent a number of years studying(emulating) the best canvas makers in our
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I installed my digital radar two years ago with the mast down. It was a new installation so new mounting hole in the mast for the cable, tapping holes in the masts etc. It is low enough though to use an extension later to install just above the first spreader and above the deck/steaming light. If you had a makeshift scaffold would save you from being a contortionist.
The Cat 5 cable is functional and I have used it for testing and temporary use, but there are several significant differences. First Cat 5 cable is solid wire and not the best choice on our boat, Raymarine is stranded. The Raymarine has a metal housing which may provide continuity of the shield which Cat 5 does not have. The waterproof outer housing at the chartplotter may be an advantage, as I did get moisture in the connector at the back of
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When we bought our CM38cc the table was placed rather ridiculously about 6″ away from the mast post so was impossible to get around from the forward end. I ruminates for a year on how to correct, all the while NOT relishing the work of building a new table.
As well as being badly placed, it was too low, to the point where it was nearly impossible to skootch your thighs under it.
A light finally went on and I realized that when I added blocking (2 layers of 3/4″ ply) to the underside to raise the table, I could also relocate the brackets to provide clearance at the mast post. It all worked like a charm!
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Mine table is permanently stored at home with the cocktail table, cushions and short tubes. It’s too bad we don’t have use of the berth, but the table is too big and all that gear takes up too much space.
I replaced it with a roughly 2′ by 3′ piece of edge glued oak that I tried (unsuccessfully) to stain to match the teak. I also built a simple wooden sliding mechanism so the new table can be slid toward the bulkhead when you want to access the port-side shelf or blinds, and slid back and locked in place for dining.
Basically, there is a 1′ by 2′ plywood platform attached to the posts in place of the table. It has angled edges on the long sides. The table has angled wooden rails screwed to its underside. The rails keep the table from lifting off the platform, but allow it
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The final version of this article has been sent to Mainsheet for publication and also added to this website. The following are notes that were not part of the final document but which may be helpful.
Notes:
– I experimented with two different WiFi routers for this installation, with mixed results. I used a $30 Netgear router and a $120 D-Link router. They both work very well at home, but the Netgear router proved unreliable onboard the boat. Connection to the iPad took 30 to 45 seconds and frequently failed. Also, the NMEA data stream was slow and sporadic. Since it worked well at home I suspect that the Netgear router is more susceptible to electronic interference than the D-Link router when placed behind the nav desk with all the electrical wires and other electronic equipment.
– The following Raymarine article describes the process of adding a WiFi router downstream
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I am seeking advice/experience from the group on the purchase of marine antennas to improve the reception range for wifi, aircards, and cell phones. I have read enough and talked to a few vendors (Wilson) to understand the myriad of products but not sure what will work best at the least cost. Also, I realize there is not a single antenna for all devices – aircards and wifi since they receive/transmit “data” may work fine without an amplifier; whereas, an antenna for a cell phone (voice) may need an amplifier to get the expected results.
I currently have the Verizon mifi hotspot (4510L) because Verizon seems to have the best overall coverage on the east coast. This works well but I would like to improve the reception when in remote locations where a weak verizon signal exists. Another case is when moored or docked at a marina that has wifi
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Navoinics for iPad:
Connects to Raymarine NMEA and Seatalk streams via standard WiFi router
Upload/download waypoints and routes
No real-time instrument repeater
Navionics charts included in price
$35 USA. $50 USA & Canada
INavX:
Requires hardware such as iMux for WiFi and to translate Seatalk to NMEA – $250 approx
Supplied with NOAA raster charts. Navionics or others are addl $50 approx
Upload/download PLUS real-time instrument repeater capabilities
$50 with NOAA charts
I’d appreciate any corrections to the above. It would be nice to find out that the less expensive Navionics will repeat instruments, but I have not found any evidence of that.
Users report that iNavX has much better functionality overall. Even at $350 for the total package it is relatively inexpensive compared to the cost of an ST70 Multi repeater or a below decks chartplotter, assuming
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If you are interested check out the forum at iphonesailing.com. That’s where I found the answers to many of my questions. Both the iNavX and Navionics users on that forum were very helpful in clarifying the hardware and software required to interface both apps to the E80. Also, there is much good info regarding the capabilities of each app.
Jeff Church
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