Category Archives: 1998

Dock Line Storage

Dock Line Storage
Jim Jaeschke
5/1/1998
Hull #: 73

We made a locker for storing dock lines by removing the starboard holder for the spare propane tank. This opened up a large spot for dock lines in the unusable spot underneath the deck. If you do this, it is important to seal this area off since water can pour into the boat. We did this by fiber glassing in plywood walls to totally seal off the interior of the boat. The drain hose used for the spare propane tank locker was then fitted to this new compartment.

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Spare Propane Locker Becomes Cockpit Cooler

Spare Propane Locker Becomes Cockpit Cooler
Dave Peffer

11/1/1998
Hull #: 20

We rarely need two propane bottles aboard, and we don’t want to open our refrigerator more often than absolutely necessary. My solution was to line the outside of the spare (starboard) propane locker with insulation, working from below in the lazarette. I used three wraps of roll insulation (from a home store) which sandwiches bubble-wrap between layers of foil, lightly gluing it and wrapping it in place with nylon strapping. The bottom was covered with expanded foam insulation board, and the joints sealed withlatex expanding foam insulation (Find this stuff! It cleans up with water!).

The locker cover was lined with the same rigid board insulation. Here I cut one piece to fit inside the water-exclusion fiddle, another to extend down just into the round part of the locker, using contact cement to hold them in place on

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Anchor Detent

Anchor Detent
Dave Peffer
10/1/1998
Hull #: 20

The anchor locker provides no place to install a chain lock, which is required to keep the anchor locked on the roller underway. I made one up as follows: a short length of 3/16″ stainless wire (length depends on the length of your anchor stock) with a lifeline pelican hook (West Marine model #543132, which adjusts in length) swaged on one end, a stainless thimble nice-pressed on the other. A galvanized shackle attaches this to the bitter-end padeye in the anchor locker. The pelican hook goes through a chain link as close as possible to the anchor, and the adjustment on the hook allows this to be snug. The anchor is not going to fall overboard. This can also be used to snub the chain and allow you to transition the chain to the gypsy while raising the anchor if you do

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Night Lights Below

Night Lights Below
Dave Peffer

10/18/1998
Hull #: 20

Gotta have them. Even the red light over the galley hurts night vision from the cockpit. We added two night lights: one in the head next to and six inches above the seat of the commode below the sink, and one on the curve at the aft end of the starboard settee just above the cabin sole and just inboard of the navigator’s chair hinge support. When installing the latter be sure to remove the settee cushion base (only six or eight screws hold it down) to find the right spot for the light and to avoid drilling a hole in the holding tank, which fits snugly into this corner! You will find a simple electrician’s snake invaluable in such electrical installations. For some reason these lights are hard to find, but I got some from M&E Marine. You may have

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Condensation in the Refrigerator

Condensation in the Refrigerator
Jim Jaeschke
9/1/1998
Hull #: 73

On Electra we started noticing in our second season a lot of condensation on the tops of cans in the top part of the refrigerator and also on the top of the refrigerator itself. We performed the dollar bill test which is closing the top cover of the refrigerator with a dollar bill located between the cover and the rubber seal. We found that the dollar bill pulled out easily in several locations along the perimeter which showed that the rubber seal was not touching the top. It was probably compressed from my putting a heavy tool box on the counter. A new one was installed.

I also checked, as suggested by other owners, the junction of the counter top and the top of the refrigerator. I found as they had, a gap that could leak air. I sealed the

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Middle Aft Cockpit Seat Stability

Middle Aft Cockpit Seat Stability
Jim Jaeschke

5/1/1998
Hull #: 73

I found out the hard way that middle stern section cockpit seat latches do not latch the seat securely on Electra. I stepped on the back of the seat and managed to launch it out into the lake while I fell onto the swim platform. I am correcting this design with one that will securely lock the seat in place and also make it very visible that it is locked. This is accomplished by making aluminum J hooks that are attached to the inside of the seat such that they will hook under the front of the bar that the seat rests on. Another section of bar was added at the back of the seat to reduce the potential for pivoting. I was lucky that this occurred in the slip and not out in the lake.

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Cabin Fans

Cabin Fans
Dave Peffer
10/18/1998
Hull #: 20

You will want cabin fans in many places, and the Hella turbo-fans draw so little power that it is reasonable to do this. The fan(s) in the v-berth should be installed as far forward as possible blowing aft, promoting airflow through the boat. One excellent spot in the main saloon is just forward of the chart table, where it can blow across the head and shoulders of the navigator, then across to the galley, where it blows heat from the stove away from the cook. Other locations will suggest themselves. We have three fans in the aft cabin. On our boat there was a free ‘Cabin Fans’ switch on the panel.

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Mast and Shroud Grounding

Mast and Shroud Grounding
Jim Jaeschke
9/1/1998
Hull #: 73

For those of you who did not order the bonding package, here is one idea as to a way to ground the base of the mast and the shroud wires to the keel. There is of course no method in which protection from lightning can be guaranteed. Indeed, there is much debate as to the way that will provide the most protection.

On Electra, we decided to ground (connect) as much of the metal in the boat as possible to the keel. On the lower part of the keel, I have mounted, drilled and tapped, four small Dyna-Plates to make as good an electrical connection to the water as possible. In fresh water, this connection to the water is the weakest link in the protection system. Spread the Dyna-Plates out on the keel on both sides so that the electricity

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Boom Vang Pivot

Boom Vang Pivot
Dave Peffer
5/1/1998
Hull #: 20

The pivot at the mast end of the vang turns on a pin held in place by only a cotter pin through the center. Nothing else holds it in place, and the cotter pin is liable to shear, dropping the pivot pin completely out of the fitting and releasing the vang from the mast. Pending a ‘fix’ for this problem, please check the cotter pin for wear and replace it at least once each season.

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Manual Bilge Pump

Manual Bilge Pump
Scott Brear

5/1/1998
Hull #: 31

We all have automatic bilge pumps, but how many times have we actually operated our manual pumps? The location of the pump handle is critical, especially if the crew must pump for extended periods. This operation should have a minimal impact on the helm. And the pump itself was quite an obstacle to entrance into the port lazarette. The solution was to relocate the pump to an area immediately aft of the port propane locker. It is a squeeze, but it fits in an area not otherwise useable. One of the existing hoses had to be replaced. The old pump opening in the cockpit was filled with the piece removed from the new position, glassed in and properly finished by a glass expert. One could never see the original installation! The result is much easier lazarette access, and the operating position

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