Storage for the Bar, New Trash Container, and New Hatch Board Holder
Ed and Sharyn Dahn 2/1/2002
Hull #: 111
Storage for the bar.
The next issue was where to store liquor bottles. The setup for the waste basket (next to the sink) seemed to be really poor. The waste basket was very small, and some trash always missed the basket and wound up in the area where we stored pots and pans. We decided to throw out the trash container and to use the compartment to store bottles. This works really well, six large jugs and a couple of small ones fit nicely in the space. We intend to install a shelf above the bottles and enclose the sides. This will be accessible by lifting up the cutting board in the counter top. It will be used to store knives and cooking utensils.
Making room for the new trash
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We required davits for our Quicksilver 300 inflatable powered by a 15 HP Merc. After reading the C380 mail on Sailnet we ordered davits from Ocean Engineering. We had the same type of davits from other manufacturers on two previous boats and in the past there was some cutting, welding and a lot of fiddling. We ordered the Ocean Engineering davits specifically for our vintage 380 and also ordered all of the optional braces. Once installed, it became clear that the system as supplied would not work with the weight of our dingy. The stern rail deflected with load and the dingy would bounce around giving one the impression that the stern rail would permanently bend or break. Additional struts were required.
The struts shown below were fabricated from stainless steel flat stock, 1” by ¼”.
New Strut
The lower end
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STEERING, BOOM HEIGHT, CLEATS, GPS
Wolfgang Doebel, Warren Elliott
2/1/2002 Hull #: 336
The following was emailed to me from a new 380 owner from Canada:
Hello Warren, Have you ever come across one of the following? Do you have any ideas to help?
The steering mechanism on my C380, at times seems, to get partially hung up, especially when moving through the neutral position. The problem is not severe but it takes out a lot of fun from steering. Also one must always expect some problems to happen if the cause of the concern is not fully understood. There is an Autopilot ST6000 plus connected to the rudder post, but it does not seem to be the cause, as the problem does not exist when traveling under power alone (no pressure on the rudder, not much tension on the cables). I have investigated the mechanical condition of the
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This is a follow-up on the February issue, which included an article by Ed and Sharyn Dahn describing their davits installation, among other things.
They had found that additional bracing was needed, and had their own brace design fabricated. About two weeks ago, I received an emailed picture of another C380, also with Ocean Marine’s Davits installed. As this seemed to show an alternative method of bracing, I thought it would be of interest to all of you who may be considering installing davits. I contacted both Ocean Marine [Mike Thomas], and the owner of the pictured boat, Marcia Ayres, who was nice enough to provide a write-up on their installation.
Warren-
We bought the Ocean Marine Systems Davits after talking to Mike Thomas. He assured us that he had davits that would work on our boat. We discussed our needs as
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I would like to share this with the other owners. I saw this idea on other boats at shows and Linda really liked it. I told her I could buy a bigger boat or make one. In the C380, the sink is built with a lip all around it, so I measured and made some plans. At West Marine, I purchased a piece of acrylic (12″ x 27″) #479736, $28.99 plus tax. From this acrylic, I cut two pieces that fit on the lip of the sink, which supports these pieces. On the left piece, I cut the curves using the cutting board as template. On the right piece, I cut out a “U” shape for the fingers to fit in to lift the cutter board. In each piece I drilled a 1″ hole for a finger to lift out the acrylic.
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Shortly after taking delivery of “Sound of Silence” hull #257 in July 2000, we noticed some cracks and apparent corrosion around the circumference of the mast step [collar] that sits at the base of the mast and is attached to the cabin roof [and compression post below]. The mast fits into the collar and is held in place by a lip that goes all the way around. There is a drawing of the part on page 26 of the Catalina manual.
There are 8 stainless clevis pins that protrude upward through 10 holes [two holes unused]. These pins, which support halyard turning-blocks, are the source of the dissimilar-metal type corrosion that occurred on our boat and on at least 3 or 4 others I have heard of. The corrosion, in just a few months, caused our mast step to crack completely
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You are probably aware that Catalina started putting Yanmar 40hp model 3JH3BE diesels in later C380s. My hull is #255 and has this engine. After about 450 hours on the engine, I started getting big-time water leakage thru the seals on the pump. The local Yanmar dealer in Cocoa Florida (where I was when I finally started looking for replacement seals) informed me that:
(1) that pump shouldn’t leak with that few hours of wear and,
(2) that he had encountered several pumps on the 4jh and 3jh Yanmars that were assembled at the factory without a required mechanical seal. Bottom line for me was that the dealer removed the pump, confirmed the internal mechanical seal was not installed, rebuilt the pump and reinstalled it all under warranty.
The only fly in that ointment was that the dealer
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Catalina Stripe Fix
Hal Breliant 11/5/2002
Hull #: 325
Purchase a piece of weather striping with an angled seal. This consists of a roughly 1″ piece of extruded aluminum, with a 3/4″ vinyl insert. [This is sold for door thresholds and usually comes in 30″ and 36″ lengths -ed].
The exact dimensions aren’t critical. I used a section about 10″ long under each of the deck drains. Mount each piece at the underside of the rub rail, tight to the deck/topsides lip. Seal it with silicone. [I suggest cleaning first with a solvent- ed]. I used two small screws to hold it in place while the silicone dries. The water runs off the strip into the bay instead of running back under the rubrail onto the hull. It works!
The photos [see photos 6, 7] show views looking up at the underside of the rub rail.
I just bought an
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I managed to crank my chain rode into the windlass about a month without destroying the chain stripper and chain wheels. Being under warranty, I called Maxwell in Cal. After a minor lecture on greasing the windlass, Maxwell did step up and fedex’d overnight the required upper and lower chain wheels in a subassembly, which I was able to drop in as directed. Two observations: one, Maxwell responded very well and, two, the greasing of the windlass, indicated in the operations manual to be annually, should be three times annually according to the manufacturer’s rep. His comment was: if you grease the windlass, it will never give you trouble. Err with too much grease as opposed to too little. Use waterproof grease like lithium based.
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Aft Cabin Seat Storage
Forest Lot
5/1/2002
Hull #: 90
If there’s one thing every cruising sailor looks for, it’s more storage. We seem to have more stuff than places to squirrel it away. The C380 has an opportunity for a couple of large storage lockers than can be accessed very easily. These are located under the port and starboard seats in the aft cabin.
When Susie and I were in the process of buying Andiamo!, we had a marine survey done just to better understand the boat and find those few things we did not know needed fixing. In addition to a few corrections that were made prior to delivery, the surveyor noted the apparently inaccessible areas under these two seats. He said the Coast Guard objects to such spaces and that we might be able to put the space to use.
The amount of space can be guessed
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