Category Archives: Mainsheet

Mainsheet Articles

2006, Engine, Mainsheet, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Is Tachometer Accurate?

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Is Tachometer Accurate?
Richard Herbst

Date: November, 2006 Hull #: 93

I recently suspected that my helm’s tach was inaccurate. After investigating, I found as much as 1300 RPM error near the high end! The tachometer’s input signal comes from an upgraded alternator on my Westerbeke 42B engine, a Balmar model 91-100. So, if there’s an upgraded alternator in use, you could have a big tachometer error.

I found the error by using a $65.00 digital “Diesel Tiny Tach” from Design Technology Inc (www.tinytach.com) which claims an accuracy of +/- 10 RPM. My order included a longer cable [$10, + about $7 shipping], which allows the indicator to reach the helm. The Tiny Tach is powered by a 9-volt battery; its transducer clamps onto an injector’s fuel line, measuring the pulses of injected fuel to determine RPM. The unit can be set up permanently or connected when needed. I used

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2006, Customizations, Mainsheet, Winter Cover

Winter Covers

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Winter Covers
Richard Herbst & Warren Elliott

August, 2006 Hull #: 93 & 44

I know August is a bit too warm to think about this subject, but think about my perspective. It’s now June and quite warm here in southern NY, and I’ve just returned from many months in the warm Bahamas and southeastern U.S., so I really don’t have winter even vaguely in mind. But, duty calls! And when you read this, cold weather won’t be far behind, at least in northern climes.

This article was submitted by Richard Herbst, a C380 captain from N.J., where winters are real. This is for those looking for inexpensive protection for that prized sailboat.

Why Cover Your Boat?

In many areas, winter weather causes water to cyclically freeze/ expand and melt/contract.. Over time, this can lift and destroy various parts, including tabbing that holds bulkheads to the hull. The rate of

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2005, Mainsheet, Port Lights, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Installing Portlight Screens

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Installing Portlight Screens
Warren Elliott
Mainsheet Date: 2/1/2005
Hull #: 44

The diagrams below show the method for installing the screens for the portlights on hulls somewhere around C380 hull #200. The screens are probably the same for all 387’s and 390’s.

Note that the shape of the portlights on the drawing look remarkably like the ones used on hulls less than 200. I suspect that Lewmar used whatever sketches were handy and adapted them. Bottom line is that the newer portlights should appear much more rounded at the ends, hence oval [you can see the true shape on their website]. Distinguishing features shown are “push-type” window latches [a bit difficult to tell, unless you’ve seen them first hand] and the bar or strap across the top of the screens [oval shape should have also been a distinguishing feature].

These drawings show the process that should be used when installing

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2005, Engine, Mainsheet, Sailing, Transmission

Engine Transmission While Sailing- Fixed and Special Props – Mainsheet February 2005

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Engine Transmission While Sailing- Fixed and Special Props
Warren Elliott
Mainsheet Date: 2/1/2005
Hull #: 44 

There had been a lot of discussion, and some confusion, on this topic occurring on our Sailnet email group a couple of years ago. The major issue was what gear should be used while sailing, in order to minimize wear on transmission parts, particularly with an Autoprop. This is an unusual prop, so different rules may apply. A secondary problem is the special transmission clutch used on our Yanmar engines, which are found on the newer C380’s and on all C387’s and C390’s. With additional knowledge and experience gathered over time, a report on this subject seems appropriate.

To start things off on the engine side of the issue, I contacted Joe Joyce at Westerbeke for info on this issue with regard to their 42B engine. Those of us with older 380’s [up to

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2005, Engine, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Yanmar Engine Info

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Warren Elliott
November, 2005
Hull #: 44

At the August east coast Catalina Rendezvous, Richard Mastry of Mastry Engine Center spoke on related topics. Mastry is the Yanmar engine supplier to Catalina for our later C380s, C387s and C390s. I spoke with him after his talk. and again, at some length, on the phone a few weeks later. I concentrated my queries on props and RPM’s, as our Sailnet list discussions have been pretty heavy on this subject. Here’s his comments.

New Engine

First, Mr. Mastry spoke about the new Yanmar 3JH4xx engine, delivered for C387’s beginning about hull # 60. The major changes include larger diameter cylinders, lower working RPMs and some user-friendly upgrades including rearranging the salt water pump for ease of impeller and/or pump change. The transmission reduction gear has also been changed to 2.33 ratio, so that the shaft RPM’s will be closer to that of

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2005, Anchor and Windlass, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Maxwell Windlass Issues

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Maxwell Windlass
Warren Elliott

5/1/2005
Hull #: 44

There’s been quite a lot of discussion on our email list concerning operating problems with our windlasses. These are principally the clutch not releasing, jamming when rope/chain splices transit the chainwheel with the “Freedom” version and failure/stalling of the unit.

To release “stuck” clutches, some captains have had to undertake some severe hammer work, as advised by Maxwell. The answer here seems to be proper maintenance, with at least annual cleaning and greasing required. The rope/chain splice problem is best minimized by having a good, professional “thin” splice made up. Some captains report that pulling the anchor line during the critical splice transit helps. A great way around both of these issues is to go to an all chain rode and add a down switch. This way, there is no splice to jam, and the clutch never needs adjusting, just leave it

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2005, Customizations, Mainsheet

Companionway Door Options – Mainsheet August 2005

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Companionway Door Options Author:Warren Elliott
8/1/2005 Hull #: 44

Mainsheet August 2005

Hi C380+ Captains, Admirals and Crews–

Here in the N.E,. thankfully, the new season is in full swing, with nice warm temps and some fair winds. Trust you’re all enjoying sailing. But, if anything is preventing your getting-out-there boat-wise, please contact me or sign into our Sailnet.com email discussion list where there’s a lot of captains ready to help.

This Mainsheet issue is devoted to four companionway treatments, most of which are “doors”. I must confess that I received much of the info a couple of years ago, so some of it is a bit dated, but still applicable. My apologies to the four captains, who may have expected to see their handiwork “somewhat” earlier. The first article is a fairly detailed one from Tom and Barbara Lincoln, who were sailing in the Bahamas. Lately, they are “sailing”

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2005, Boom, Mainsheet, Mast, Repair/Replace/Maintain, Rig

Furling Main Maintenance

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Furling Main Maintenance
Earle Ellefsen

November, 2005 Hull #: 271

Our Commodore, Earle Ellefsen [C380 #271, Valkyrie], discovered chafe near one end of his mainsail furling line. He decided to turn the line end-for-end, and remove the chafed area as there was excess line length. The key step in accomplishing this was to remove the bolt, which locks-in the furling line, near the bottom of the furler. Of course, an “opportunity” soon arose when Earle realized that the bolt was Stainless Steel in an aluminum furler and, with a few years of salt-water environment, was thoroughly corroded in-place. Many shots of WD-40 later, nothing had changed! Early attempts at removal quickly resulted in losing the slot– or, as Earle put it: “it torqued open”. Obviously the bolt should have had a more substantial gripping head.

Once the slot was destroyed, heavy locking pliers are the obvious choice, right? Wrong– their

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2005, Anchor and Windlass, Mainsheet, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Maxwell Windlass – Mainsheet May 2005

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Maxwell Windlass
Warren Elliott
5/1/2005
Hull #: 44

Maxwell Windlass There’s been quite a lot of discussion on our email list concerning operating problems with our windlasses. These are principally the clutch not releasing, jamming when rope/chain splices transit the chainwheel with the “Freedom” version and failure/stalling of the unit.

To release “stuck” clutches, some captains have had to undertake some severe hammer work, as advised by Maxwell. The answer here seems to be proper maintenance, with at least annual cleaning and greasing required. The rope/chain splice problem is best minimized by having a good, professional “thin” splice made up. Some captains report that pulling the anchor line during the critical splice transit helps. A great way around both of these issues is to go to an all chain rode and add a down switch. This way, there is no splice to jam, and the clutch never needs adjusting, just

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2005, Mainsheet, Sailing

Boat Speed Under Power – Mainsheet May 2005

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Title:Boat Speed Under Power
Author:Jim Jaeschke
Date: 5/1/2005
Hull #: 73

Boat Speed Under Power – Engine/Transmission/Propeller Performance There has been a few lively discussions on the Sailnet C380+ list about how fast and at what RPM our boats will move under engine power. The bottom line is that your boat should cruise at 7+ knots at engine rev’s that promote long life. I’ll try to help you get there by discussing prop characteristics, tying in engine performance and, for the practical side: tachometer and boat speed instrumentation.

Instrumentation In order to know our boat’s motoring performance, we need reasonably accurate instrumentation. It has been reported that the tachometer on some boats has not been calibrated, resulting in erroneous RPM readings. It is important, not only for this discussion but also for engine life, that the tach indicate engine RPM correctly. If you suspect a problem, have your boat yard

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