Alternator/Regulator Mods Jim Norman, Jos Sonneville 8/1/2004 Hull #: 33
We’ve had a lot of “traffic” on our Sailnet email discussion list on this topic. Modification of your engine’s alternator, to provide connection for a “smart” external regulator, can make the full alternator output available for your battery charging; otherwise, the typical alternator’s regulator will provide only about 1/2 of the available charging current.
The particular description here is applicable to the earlier C380’s that have the Westerbeke 42B engine, which includes a 72-amp alternator. The same concept will work for the Yanmar-equipped boats, although it’s smaller 55-amp alternator has less potential “reward”.
The alternator’s standard regulator is contained in a housing [aka: “doghouse”] attached to the back of the alternator. There are both “N” [negative] and “P” [positive] types, so named because of the electrical location of the regulator with respect to the alternator’s field winding. They require
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Basic “Go-Fasts” For The C380 Author:Steve Dublin Date: 5/1/2004 Hull #: 84
We’ve found our C-380, “Caretta” (hull # 84), to be a very able club racer, particularly in offshore events. When her skipper and crew are reasonably attentive, she can sail to her 120 PHRF rating. The stock Catalina 380 comes well fitted out with sail handling gear. However, there are some basic “go fasts” (racing equipment), which can be easily added, to help the boat sail her to her full potential. I’ve described a few of these “go fasts” below along with some installation tips learned the hard way:
Adjustable Backstay The C-380 does not have a “bendy” rig. However, a pincer block assembly (Photo 3), connected to a 4 to 1 block & tackle, will allow you to tighten the forestay and point a little higher in moderate sea conditions. You don’t have to drill any holes
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Improving the C-380 Single Line Reefing System Tom McMahn 8/1/2004 Hull #: 29
Many C-380 owners have complained about the single line reefing systems installed on our boats. I am no exception. The reefing system installed on many modern Catalina models, like those on most other production boats, is difficult to use and results in less than satisfactory reefed sail shape. Rigging the boat so reefing can be done from the cockpit is a great safety goal, but the implementation leaves a lot of room for improvement.
Tom McMahan clew block side
The friction created by the reefing line twice passing through the reef cringles, and that in all the blocks used to turn the line back to the cockpit, make taking a reef a real chore. Perhaps even worse, the same friction points make shaking out the reef nearly impossible without help from the halyard winch. [Note: any reef
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More on Spinnaker & Jib Poles Warren Elliott 5/1/2004 Hull #: 44
As a follow-up to Steve’s article, I did some further enquiries on spinnaker/jib poles and cars. For the older C380’s with Z-Spar masts, Julian Crisp at US Spars [was Z-Spar, tel: 386 462-3760] indicates that, for the standard [non-furling] mast, the cost is about $250 for a car and short section of track. They also sell the same track in a long version [4 meters], for those who want to store their boat’s pole on the mast. US Spars’ furling mast uses a simpler approach in which the car can be added directly to the mast groove, and is about $170; installing this car does not require stepping the mast. They also sell complete poles with fittings, at better prices than the big catalog stores, per Julian. [But remember that shipping long items means that a trucking company
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Basic “Go-Fasts” For The C380 Steve Dublin 5/1/2004 Hull #: 84
We’ve found our C-380, “Caretta” (hull # 84), to be a very able club racer, particularly in offshore events. When her skipper and crew are reasonably attentive, she can sail to her 120 PHRF rating.
The stock Catalina 380 comes well fitted out with sail handling gear. However, there are some basic “go fasts” (racing equipment), which can be easily added, to help the boat sail her to her full potential. I’ve described a few of these “go fasts” below along with some installation tips learned the hard way:
Adjustable Backstay
The C-380 does not have a “bendy” rig. However, a pincer block assembly (Photo 3), connected to a 4 to 1 block & tackle, will allow you to tighten the forestay and point a little higher in moderate sea conditions. You don’t have to drill any holes for
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Title: Flexible Coupling for Drivetrain Author: Gordon R Croudace Date: 8/12/2003 Hull #: 18
I am the owner of a Catalina 380C [“”Cahuilla””, Hull no.18], based in Sydney, Australia. I recently fitted a flexible coupling between the transmission and the propeller shaft. As it has made such a dramatic difference in terms of virtually eliminating vibration, reducing noise transmission through the hull and the impact of gear engagement, it has prompted me to recommend this relatively inexpensive and easy-to-fit mod to all owners. In fact, it surprises me that the flexible coupling is not fitted as standard equipment to all Catalina yachts.
The flexible coupling purchased is a product of R&D Drivetrain Solutions in Lynnwood, WA. USA. [ www.flexible-coupling.com]. It is available through PYI Inc. [ www.pyiinc.com. ] The model number of the flexible coupling fitted is 910-001. It is designed to be bolted between the transmission’s half coupling and
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Scott Brear posted the following comments about bilge pumps on the C380-list@sailnet.net list. His advice is well worth considering.
Stock manual and electrical bilge pumps in production boats are not designed for catastrophic leaks. They can only manage clearances of the bilge due to “”normal”” leaks through the speed impeller stowage, stern gland, rain , some minor hose leaks, etc. because they do not have even the rated capacity to do much more. In practice this is OK, because 95% of the time that is only where the water comes from.
But think about it some more. If you did have a 1.5 inch hole in your hull, what do you have on board that can pump that volume of ingress out? Such a hole could be your engine sea water hose, stern
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You may recall that the interference between the boom and doger was discussed in last year’s February Mainsheet. Briefly, at about hull # 100, manufacturer of the spars was changed from ZSpar to US Spars. The new masts have their boom several inches lower, resulting in the potential for the boom to contact the bimini, and perhaps dodger, when sailing close hauled. This problem apparently does not occur for in-mast furlers, probably because those mainsails are cut several inches shorter in the leech in order for them to furl properly.
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At the Atlantic City Boat Show, I spoke with Gerry Douglas, Chief Engineer at Catalina, who indicated that they have come up with a fix: ship Catalina [Calif. factory] your mainsail, they will cut out a wedge-shaped piece to reduce the leech length, and
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Here’s another topic that’s received quite a bit of attention. It seems that a number of boats are sending out “clunking” sounds from the rudder shaft. This occurred on my boat near the end of the 2001 summer, when the boat was 5 years old; I traced the sound to the upper bearing, which is easily accessed through the emergency tiller deck plate [at the helm]. I could see the upper end of the rudder shaft moving back and forth, albeit a small amount, in synchronism with the sound and rolling motion of the boat.
Further investigation took place after our 380 was “on the hard” for the winter. By holding the bottom of the rudder and moving it side-to-side, I found both upper and lower bearings had some “slop”. Initial measurements indicated that there was about 1/16″ top and bottom. But
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Radar Pole Configurations Warren Elliott, Paul McManus, Bob Sapita,Bob Brown 5/14/2003
Recently, there was considerable interest on this subject on our Sailnet email discussion group, so it seems that many are considering adding radar–a very worthwhile investment. To help with your design, here are three setups, sent to me by their captains after my Sailnet request. I’ll add photos of my radar pole configuration when I can convince my admiral to spend the $ on a decent digital camera. [I must confess, I’ve spent plenty on boat upgrades!].
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Photos 1 & 2 are shots of Paul McManus’s setup on his C-380 #185, “”Sea Sea Rider””. The pole and supports are standard Edson items. The pole’s weight is supported on the clevis- type bracket mounted just above the port side swim-platform storage “”box””. Upper support is provided by two rail brackets. Paul has a dink motor lift utilizing a pulley
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