Scott Brear posted the following comments about bilge pumps on the C380-list@sailnet.net list. His advice is well worth considering.
Stock manual and electrical bilge pumps in production boats are not designed for catastrophic leaks. They can only manage clearances of the bilge due to “”normal”” leaks through the speed impeller stowage, stern gland, rain , some minor hose leaks, etc. because they do not have even the rated capacity to do much more. In practice this is OK, because 95% of the time that is only where the water comes from.
But think about it some more. If you did have a 1.5 inch hole in your hull, what do you have on board that can pump that volume of ingress out? Such a hole could be your engine sea water hose, stern
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You may recall that the interference between the boom and doger was discussed in last year’s February Mainsheet. Briefly, at about hull # 100, manufacturer of the spars was changed from ZSpar to US Spars. The new masts have their boom several inches lower, resulting in the potential for the boom to contact the bimini, and perhaps dodger, when sailing close hauled. This problem apparently does not occur for in-mast furlers, probably because those mainsails are cut several inches shorter in the leech in order for them to furl properly.
[emember_protected]
At the Atlantic City Boat Show, I spoke with Gerry Douglas, Chief Engineer at Catalina, who indicated that they have come up with a fix: ship Catalina [Calif. factory] your mainsail, they will cut out a wedge-shaped piece to reduce the leech length, and
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Here’s another topic that’s received quite a bit of attention. It seems that a number of boats are sending out “clunking” sounds from the rudder shaft. This occurred on my boat near the end of the 2001 summer, when the boat was 5 years old; I traced the sound to the upper bearing, which is easily accessed through the emergency tiller deck plate [at the helm]. I could see the upper end of the rudder shaft moving back and forth, albeit a small amount, in synchronism with the sound and rolling motion of the boat.
Further investigation took place after our 380 was “on the hard” for the winter. By holding the bottom of the rudder and moving it side-to-side, I found both upper and lower bearings had some “slop”. Initial measurements indicated that there was about 1/16″ top and bottom. But
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You are probably aware that Catalina started putting Yanmar 40hp model 3JH3BE diesels in later C380s. My hull is #255 and has this engine. After about 450 hours on the engine, I started getting big-time water leakage thru the seals on the pump. The local Yanmar dealer in Cocoa Florida (where I was when I finally started looking for replacement seals) informed me that:
(1) that pump shouldn’t leak with that few hours of wear and,
(2) that he had encountered several pumps on the 4jh and 3jh Yanmars that were assembled at the factory without a required mechanical seal. Bottom line for me was that the dealer removed the pump, confirmed the internal mechanical seal was not installed, rebuilt the pump and reinstalled it all under warranty.
The only fly in that ointment was that the dealer
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Lazarette Shelves
Hal Breliant 3/20/2002
Hull #: 325
The storage lazarettes under the aft port and starboard seats aren’t extremely usable as each is a 5′ 6″ high vertical shaft. I wanted to add a shelf that was easy to open to allow access to each well. In the starboard well, I glassed 1-1/2″ treated lumber to the back of the well across the forward wall of the stern-platform locker at 1-1/2″ above the height of the lip on the cockpit /deck joint lip which is forward within the well.
Spanning the top of the joint lip and across the bottom of the glassed-in 1-1/2″, I ran two 1-1/2″ treated members to act as a front to back support for a forward transverse member. There are too many obstructions to use the lip surface as the forward transverse support. It helped me to run these past the glassed-in member one
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Catalina Stripe Fix
Hal Breliant 11/5/2002
Hull #: 325
Purchase a piece of weather striping with an angled seal. This consists of a roughly 1″ piece of extruded aluminum, with a 3/4″ vinyl insert. [This is sold for door thresholds and usually comes in 30″ and 36″ lengths -ed].
The exact dimensions aren’t critical. I used a section about 10″ long under each of the deck drains. Mount each piece at the underside of the rub rail, tight to the deck/topsides lip. Seal it with silicone. [I suggest cleaning first with a solvent- ed]. I used two small screws to hold it in place while the silicone dries. The water runs off the strip into the bay instead of running back under the rubrail onto the hull. It works!
The photos [see photos 6, 7] show views looking up at the underside of the rub rail.
I just bought an
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Food Storage
Ed and Sharyn Dahn
2/1/2002
Hull #: 111
The locker to the left of the microwave is a huge space that we believed to be quite unusable without a shelf. A wooden shelf was considered, however, it was felt that even if a ½ inch thick shelf were used it would require some kind of bracing. The thickness of the shelf and bracing would use up too much room. As a result we decided to make it out of 1/8 inch aluminum sheet metal. Careful measurements were made, and the local sheet metal shop sheared a piece for us. The shelf comes to within ¼ inch of the door so that items on the top shelf can not fall down. The shelf is supported on ½ inch aluminum angle stock that was installed along the sides and back. Photo below:
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Being a sailboat owner, I truly dislike having to run the engine during good sailing conditions. Bringing our boat home to Portland, OR from our summer cruising grounds in Washington’s San Juan Islands and the Canadian Gul f Islands usually offers such conditions, once we round Cape Flattery and head out into the Pacific and down the Washington coast. It’s a 30-hour broad reach in 17-knot northwesterlies followed by two days of spinnaker run up the Columbia River. We do it short handed – the autopilot is very necessary. Unfortunately, at about 65% of battery charge with the stock Exide 4D marine house battery bank (wired in parallel), the autopilot starts complaining like a series wound DC motor will when it’s getting more of its power from current than from voltage. With the refrigeration cycling at about 33% and the autopilot
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Several of our 380/390 captains on our Sailnet email discussion group have in-mast furling and have mentioned how they like the arrangement. Some of those without this feature, including me, have usually responded with some “buts”: but there are no battens [so less sailing efficiency], but there’s less sail area [46 sq. ft. less: about 13%], but they jam, but, etc. Some said that a better alternative is in-boom furlers, which have become a lot more reliable, and are much less expensive to retrofit. Of course, buying a new Catalina with either system installed is better than retrofitting; here, in-boom costs more than in-mast. [For the latest on in-boom furlers, see Practical Sailor, Oct. 1, 2001].
I had seen some 380’s with in-mast furling, but had not really dug deeper. Then Earle and Barbara Ellefsen [C380 # 271 “Valkyrie”],
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Electrical Power Upgrades, Electrical Energy Independence
Earl Poe, Warren Elliott
3/20/2002
Hull #: 140
S/Y Angel’s Wings, hull number 140, spends a great deal of the sailing season anchored in remote coves on a beautiful kentucky lake. Her captain and first mate are people who hate to run the engine which tends to ruin the quiet, summer lifestyle, not to mention scare away the roosting bald eagles, osprey, and deer. Supplemental sources of electricity had to be found. Over the past two (2) seasons, we have added solar panels, a wind generator, and replaced our tired 4D batteries with four (6) volt golf cart batteries. First, we chose to mount two (2) flexible uni-solar model #usf-32 solar panels on top of the canvas dodger (photo 1). We ran the wiring though the coach roof (photo 2), down to the starboard wire chase, and back to a solar regulator mounted behind
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