Category Archives: Engine

Stopping a run-away Yanmar 3JH4 Engine

[Webmaster] Yes, there is an emergency shutdown for a 3JH4 Engine.

Emergency Shutdown JH4E

 

I had an incident yesterday afternoon that stumped me for awhile, and concerned me too.  As some background I had wired in a warning light at the helm to alert me when the Racor filter is filing with water.  Since completing this project last week, I had not had an opportunity to use the engine.

Yesterday, I wanted to run the engine for a bit and maybe finally take Alderu out for a day cruise.  I placed the key in the ignition (and possibly turned it, not sure) and the engine just came right on.  No hitting any start buttons, nothing, just key in and RUN.  At first I didn’t even comprehend what was going on, but realized that the Yanmar was running.  None of the instruments were alive; the tach, temp, fuel gauge, etc, all dead. But

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Sticky Gear Shift Cable

Here’s my report on the stiff gear shift issue. I removed the cable from the transmission and moved the shift lever. It was stiff without being attached. Next I removed the head bump cover under the steering pedestal below. I didn’t see any kinks, but a cable holder steers the cable into an “s” turn, so I removed that to give it a more gentle curve. Checked the lever again. Still stiff. I started to remove my compass to get to the insides. Two bolts came easy, two were stuck, so I sprayed them with wd40 and had a beer. For grins, I sprayed some into where the lever goes into the housing. The hole looks to be lined with a Teflon or plastic tube through which the lever passes. I worked it in with a few back and forth, and low and behold it started to free up. Problem

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Replacing the Transmission Cable

OK, I have successfully replaced my Transmission Cable. Here is the info for anyone interested. The final result is a very smooth shift…Sweet!

The cable length is 17 feet (I used a Teleflex, CCX63317). The toughest part of the whole project was getting the Cable holder out. I had to loosen the steering cables at the quadrant in order to shift the chain forward at the top of the binnacle to have enough room to pull the holder out. The left side of the binnacle has a little more room than the right side, so this is the side to use. The other trick was to totally flip the cable holder over to remove it,   Use the two cable like chopsticks as the Edison Tech told me, and flip it so that the bolt side was facing towards the middle of the binnacle (this will only make sense to those

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How to get the flange off the prop shaft

 

I need to replace my PSS. Seems to have worn down.
I got the two flanges (trans side and prop side) separated.
I can NOT seem to get the prop flange off the shaft. I got the set screws out. I can’t budge the key. Seems rusted on, I am stuck.

In a post from April 2010 Warren said to separate the two flanges, put a “spacer” (nut or ratchet set piece) then “insert longer bolts” connecting the two flanges and evenly tighten.

I am not at boat and did NOT bring the existing bolts home.
Does anyone know what type of bolt I need to do this?

-Ken
c380 #176
Newport, RI

 


You can make up the longer “bolts” using booker rod … I think it is 8mm Metric and use a socket spanner for spacer. You should also check for wear of the cutlass bearing …this

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Starter Solenoid

Well all launched on lake Ontario even though we had strong winds. Minor problem at launch, starter solenoid decided to crap out, I managed to jump the starter solenoid connection and at least get over to the slip.

Has anyone had success in purchasing starter solenoid without having to buy a new starter. I searched Torrenson and local Westerbeke dealer in Ontario but they only list new starters at a small fortune. If I can’t find a solenoid the option is just sending starter to rebuilder for rebuild and new solenoid.

If anyone has had success in finding a solenoid please let me know, greatly appreciated.

Paul
Hull 170
Bronte

 


Paul…

Suggest checking connections.  A bit of corrosion, especially at starter terminals, can produce that symptom, depending on your jumping technique.

Warren
Warrenell@msn.com


Paul

I was able to purchase a new solenoid from Stewart Marine (206) 789-4600 in Seattle

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Yanmar Exhaust Mixing Elbow – Remove/Replace

Today I removed, inspected, and reinstalled my exhaust mixing elbow.  As you know the engine manual says replace at 500 hours and they make two exhaust elbows.  One at approx. $260. and one at approx. $900.  Naturally, the C-387 has the larger, heavier, more expensive one, but it should last longer.  I talked with a fellow sailor who attended the Yanmar engine school and the mechanic/instructor said to inspect at recommended interval and only replace when needed.  I have 950 engine hrs. and my elbow looked good inside.  No visible wearing away of the metal or carbon build up.  The following is the procedure I recommend for removal:

  1. Remove raw water hose.
  2. Unbolt 4 nuts and remove elbow.
  3. Have someone hold exhaust hose (3 3/8 in. O.D.) while you twist elbow out.

The exhaust hose is large and only slightly flexible.  I was unable to  remove it from the elbow

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Storing E10 Gas over the winter

Friends have had numerous discussions about how to store gas tanks with the gasoline that is now required to have 10% ethanol (called E-10 Gas).  For potable gas tanks I just pour the gas into my car and leave the tanks totally empty over the winter.  For gas tanks (such as on a boat) that can’t be emptied and stored inside, this article gives some very good input.

We should always add stabilizer to any gas tank that isn’t going to be totally used in six weeks, which I understand is the ‘shelf life’ of gasoline that we purchase at the local gas station.  I always add stabilizer to the outboard gas and any other small engine gas tanks, even in the summer.  Actually I also add diesel stabilizer every time I fill the boat fuel tank as well, but that is a different subject.

The last paragraph has a

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Blowing out raw water line and strainer

Editor:  A discussion ensued on finding a top for the raw water strainer where you could hook up a garden hose to blow out blockages.  Warren provided the following interesting approach:


I took another approach..found a special “expandable” plumbing fixture that works great…and is “dirt cheap”.

It’s called a “Mechanical Test Plug, with By-Pass”.  This is essentially a short pice of steel pipe [maybe a foot long] with a rubber “donut” attached to and surrounding the pipe, and has a large wing nut; the latter squeezes the rubber so that it expands, filling and sealing whatever its inserted into.

This is made in many sizes/diameters.  Our ID of top of strainer is 2″, so I bought test plug rated for 1.5 to 2.25″.,

Got mine from McMaster-Carr, p/n 2644K21, $8.17.     nj.sales@mcmaster.com is shown on p.o., but website available.

To make it easier to pour in a bucket or bottle of

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Engine Compartment Cooling

Jim,

May be able to suggest a way to improve the air circulation and cooling in the engine compartment.

I’ve been holding off installing the larger Ample alternator and Balmar regulator until I could figure out how to improve cooling in the engine compartment.

Last trip to the boat I completed replacing the flimsy ventilation hoses with nearly indestructible Hi temp thermoplastic rubber duct hose and rerouted the positive ventilator discharge duct from under engine to top of engine and alternator to scavenge rising heat more effectively. I’m heading up to the boat Wednesday and should be able to complete a number of projects, including rewiring the blower to automatically run when the engine is running, and for a 15 minute cool down period after shut down using a delay board (should be able to re-utilize the fan switch as an off switch). Then install the alternator, regulator and sensors.

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Engine Stalling Problem – Discussion

My westerbeke 42b has run for years flawlessly. Several days ago it began to
stall. Suspected it was starved fotbfeul and I raced primary an secondary filters. They came out black and grimy. Since then engine still stalls after running at 3/4 throttle for 15 minutes. Seems starved for fuel.

Any ideas?

 


Check that the electric fuel pump is working. I had a loose connection on the fuel pump wiring that caused a similar problem. Fuel pump should click during glow plug operation and when the engine is running.

Paul McManus
Sea Sea Rider C380 #185
Port Orchard, WA

 


I had the same problem. It was a clogged fuel line with lots of gunk inside the fuel tank. You will need to clean the line and the tank, and replace both filters. I had the work done by a mechanic. He also recommended a fuel additive to prevent

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