Category Archives: Engine

Radiator Flush

I just flushed the system with Peak radiator flush and added new Prestone Premixed Dex-Cool antifreeze. It took about 1.25 gallons of premixed antifreeze. I plan to flush the system every 5 or 6 years and replace the antifreeze every 2 to 3.

Steps were as follows:

I removed the thermostat. It’s your choice on whether to do that. With it removed the engine won’t heat up much during the flush, but you won’t have to wait for it to reach operating temperature and open the thermo on each of these steps.

Drain the antifreeze from the system at the 2 drain fittings. The heat exchanger drain fitting is toward the back of the heat exchanger on the port side (there is a fresh water drain there too). The other antifreeze drain fitting is toward the middle of the engine block on the stbd side. I drained them into the

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Tachometer Spec and Installation

IIIElectrical Praducts

Manufactured by:
Teleflex inc. (USA)
6980 Professional Pkwy East
Sarasota, FL 34240-8414
Phone (941) 907-1000
FAX £b41) 907-1020

 

TACHOMETER, TACH/HOURMETER INSTRUCTIONS DIESEL ALTERNATOR TYPE

CAUTION

READ AND FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFUllY BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH INSTALLATION. 00 NOT DEVIATE FROM WIRING INSTRUCTIONS. INCORRECT WIRING COULD CAUSE ELECTRICAL SHORT AND POSSIBLE FIRE. AlWAYS DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE MAKING ANY ELECTRICAL  CONNECTIONS.

NOTE: VARIOUS STANDARD MAKING ORGANIZATIONS HAVE ESTABLISHED RULES FOR WIRING. THOSE APPLICABLE TO YOUR SITUATION SHOULD BE FOLLOWED.

THIS TACHOMETER IS DESIGNED TO OPERATE ONLY IN 12 VOLT NEGATIVE GROUND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS. THE ALTERNATOR MUST BE EQUIPPED WITH A TERMINAL MARKED W, ‘AC’ OR’ R’.

Certain alternator manufacturers, such as Motorola, can supply an add-on adapter if such a terminal is not present.

Alternator repair shops may also be able to provide a tachometer output from the

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Tachometer Acting Up

My tachometer started acting up.
At engine idle it would read zero revs and as you slowly open the throtlle the revs jump up to 3500 and then settles around 4000 with the engine probably at 2800 or so which is where we usually cruise.

I looked at the sender unit, pulled the wires off and noted significant corrosion. Cleaned terminal with fine emery paper and sprayed liberally with Corrosion Block. Restarted engine and to my relief the problem was fixed with tach behaving normally.

I am thinking of spending some time with the engine and doing that with all the electrical connections. Sooner or later they will all corrode.

BTW I replaced the oil pressure sensor (very surpising but it was only about $9.50) and the engine oil warning light and buzzer are working normally again.

Trevor Rabie

Dionysus C387 #8
Yanmar 3JH3E


I had the same experience and

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Antifreeze Types

Jeff mentions “OATs” so I thought I would elaborate

(The bolding and underlining are mine and may relate to the sludge some of us have found in our heat exchangers.)

“Automotive antifreeze/coolant is made of ethylene glycol, water, and a chemical additive package. For many years, there was only one type of antifreeze on the market, conventional green. Antifreeze technology has become significantly more complex in the last several years with the introduction of Dexcool and other extended life antifreeze formulas. Currently, there are three main types of antifreeze on the market. They all contain an ethylene glycol base, water, dye and an additive package. What makes them different is the additive package.

Conventional green antifreeze formulations usually contain a number of inorganic corrosion inhibitors that provide immediate corrosion protection because they maintain the pH of the solution (buffer it), but are consumed or transformed chemically as they perform their

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Changing Antifreeze on Yanmar

The below advice, from Mack Boring, is for the Yanmar 3GM30F, but is essentially the same procedure for most engines:

“Coolant Change – Yanmar 3GM30FC (Japan, circa 1999)Coolant Change – Yanmar 3GM30FC (Japan, circa 1999)

Background:

Yanmar accepts the following antifreeze applications in their products, present and past models:

  • Ethylene glycol-Changed annually regardless of hours of operation.
  • Extended Life Antifreeze or Coolant (Meets or exceeds ASTM D3306 & D4985) Changed every two years or 250 hours whichever comes first.
  • Yanmar Ultralife YG30
  • Dex-Cool Long Lfe Coolant
  • Havoline Extended Life Antifreeze

Benefits of extended life coolants:

  • reduces hard scale build up
  • better heat transfer
  • no phosphate or silicate formation
  • long term corrosion protection for aluminum, bronze and cast iron
  • improved water pump life

Thomas J. Watts
Technical Support, Mack Boring & Parts Company
908-964-0700 ext. 286

tomw@mackboring.com

 

Equipment List:

  • 0.5 gal Dexcool-type Extended Life Antifreeze (ex. Prestone 5yr/150000mi)
    Or 1

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Zinc’s and Corrosion – A Discussion

Galvanic corrosion (also called ‘ dissimilar metal corrosion’ or wrongly ‘electrolysis’) refers to corrosion damage induced when two dissimilar materials are coupled in a corrosive electrolyte.

When a galvanic couple forms, one of the metals in the couple becomes the anode and corrodes faster than it would all by itself, while the other becomes the cathode and corrodes slower than it would alone. For galvanic corrosion to occur, three conditions must be present:

  1. Electrochemically dissimilar metals must be present
  2. These metals must be in electrical contact, and
  3. The metals must be exposed to an electrolyte

 


Hi all,

I would appreciate input on the underwater zincs used on my C380.  With the installed Yanmar, I’m aware that it lacks engine and heat exchanger zincs.

Since I’ve only needed to replace our zincs once, during her initial survey in 2007, I’ve forgotten many details.  Before rushing to judgment, about only replacing

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C380 Westerbeke/Yanmar Transition

It’s interesting that you have the Yanmar engine with C380 hull #184. I have C380 hull #185 and have a Westerbeke engine. I had thought that there were several Westerbekes after my hull #. Looks like I got one of the last Westerbekes or did the Previous Owner of your boat decide to wait for a Yanmar engine?

Paul McManus
Sea Sea Rider C380 #185
Port Orchard, WA

 


When we were looking to buy our C380, I called both Warren Pandy, and the Westerbeake representative that handled both warranty issues. I recall Warren explaining that there really wasn’t a specific hull number that could be sited as when the transition occurred. As I recall he mentioned that they tested the Yanmars on a boat or two prior to making the final decision to transition. He further indicated that even when the decision was final, the transition really didn’t occur

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Raw Water Alarm

All,

In a sidebar conversation, Warren came up with a really simple way to add the raw water alarm to our boats. The sensor that straps to the exhaust hose can be wired into the existing circuit for the engine overtemp alarm. This way, if either the engine overheats, or the exhaust hose gets too hot from lack of raw water, the alarm will sound. The sensor alone is just $54.

The steps would be:
1. Strap the sensor to the exhaust hose just below the water injection elbow.
2. route both wires to the terminal strip in the engine compartment.
3. connect the black wire from the sensor to the same terminal with the black ground wire.
4. connect the purple wire to the same terminal as the engine overtemp alarm. This wire could be identified by finding the sender on the engine or looking at the back of

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Engine Differences across C380 and C387

Previous posts have given specifications for the two different Yanmar engines used in the C387 series.  Warren has provided below some additional interesting information on engine and transmission differences across the C380-C387 series….

Tom

Should you want to delve further into engine differences, –in this case between the two boats—one design fact that has baffled me is why the two engines [in this case: 3, but the 2 Yanmars have the same trend] have opposite-trending fwd/rev gear ratios.

Specifically, the Westerbeke 42b has 2.63/1.95 fwd/rev gearing, while the Yanmars [JH3] has 2.61/3.16 fwd/rev reduction ratios!!??

It looks like Westerbeke realizes that owner/operators want to operate at low RPM’s in reverse, but Yanmar believes operators like to operate near the same throttle for both directions???

Have asked a couple of “experts”, but no definitive answer.  Perhaps Tim has some thoughts on this.

To carry this a bit further, I see that

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Yanmar Engine for C385

The 385 will be arriving with the 3JH5E Yanmar.

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