C387 boats have had two types of Yanmar engines — 3JH3xx and 3JH4xx. Note that the 3JH3 engine has a much higher engine RPM to reach max horsepower than does the 3JH4. Note also that this means that the transmission will also be different. The change to 3JH4 engines took place around hull #60. The following is the specification for the 3JH4 engine:
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C387 boats have had two types of Yanmar engines — 3JH3xx and 3JH4xx. Note that the 3JH3 engine has a much higher engine RPM to reach max horsepower. Note also that this means that the transmission will also be different. The change to 3JH4 engines took place around hull #60. The following is the specification for the 3JH3 engine:
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1. I replaced the original front motor mounts by first separating the prop to engine coupler so I could later tilt the engine to slide out the mounts, one corner at a time.
2. I noted the number of stud treads exposed on either side of the up/down adjustment nuts and marked the new motor mount stud for that engine corner accordingly so I could duplicate the same adjustment setting on the new mount for that specific corner.
3. Traced the outline of the original motor mount as it rested on the hull engine grid ( stringer) to ensure the side to side bolts adjustment template spacing is recorded before removing the engine mount to hull grid by removing the hull attachment bolts.
4. I then removed the stud adjustment nut securing the engine to the mount so the engine could be lifted above the mount
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I have been having ongoing problems with the raw water pump leaking on my Westerbeke 42B. The engine has about 450 total hours, which is pretty low considering the age of the boat. The raw water pump started leaking two years ago during the 2008 season. On the Westerbeke, the pump housing has a set of weep holes which will theoretically drain any water that gets past the internal shaft water seal. This serves two purposes. First is to give you a visual indication of a leak, although the pump is unfortunately located directly over the forward port engine mount which will start to rust from the salt water dripping out of the pump. Second, the weep holes should keep salt water out of the pump bearings, which are protected by an oil seal on the other side of the weep holes.
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Although we are sailors at heart, and hopefully by practice, we do need to call on our auxiliary engines regularly. With some luck, it’s only off and on the dock, or in and out of the harbor, but sometimes our “iron genny” will be cranking away for hours at a time. Whatever the modes of operation, there sometimes appears a cloud of doubt: will she start ok?…or how long can the engine keep going like this?
To bring the sunshine–and dispel any clouds–there are at least two general approaches, [maybe three if you include Happy Hours]: maintenance and testing. Most of us are patently familiar with the former: change oil regularly [about 100 hours], keep cooling system in good shape [strainer, impeller, heat exchanger on the raw water side, antifreeze/rust inhibitor for the fresh water system [use the fairly
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Cooling sea water flows through our engine’s heat exchanger, then through the anti-siphon valve discussed above and to the elbow fitting at the aft end of the exhaust manifold. Here the water is “injected” into the hot exhaust gases, where it cools them while transiting the exhaust system, ending up back in the sea.
This elbow fitting is therefore in a very harsh environment, suffering the rigors of both very hot gases and warm/ hot salt water. [Fresh water sailors have an advantage here.] So you can imagine that this part is likely to be on the earlier, rather than later, timescale for failure. This occurred to at least one captain, albeit in a benign fashion. Over a period of months, his engine gradually exhibited higher and higher operating temperatures. After checking all the likely sources of
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The head on my C380’s Westerbeke engine recently underwent a costly overhaul as a consequence of seawater entering the engine exhaust manifold. It was determined that the siphon break [aka “anti-siphon valve”] had seized shut, allowing seawater to flood the engine exhaust manifold after engine shut-down. Having discussed this with various marine engineers involved in engine overhauls, it is likely that the lack of attention to siphon-break maintenance, and sometimes the installation approach, is the cause of many failures of inboard marine engines, irrespective of manufacturer. It can affect any engine mounted below the water line, in both sail and power boats. This unfortunate experience [perhaps fortunate for our readers- Warren], has prompted me to write this article in the firm belief that all owners should understand the role of the siphon break and inspect
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I recently suspected that my helm’s tach was inaccurate. After investigating, I found as much as 1300 RPM error near the high end! The tachometer’s input signal comes from an upgraded alternator on my Westerbeke 42B engine, a Balmar model 91-100. So, if there’s an upgraded alternator in use, you could have a big tachometer error.
I found the error by using a $65.00 digital “Diesel Tiny Tach” from Design Technology Inc (www.tinytach.com) which claims an accuracy of +/- 10 RPM. My order included a longer cable [$10, + about $7 shipping], which allows the indicator to reach the helm. The Tiny Tach is powered by a 9-volt battery; its transducer clamps onto an injector’s fuel line, measuring the pulses of injected fuel to determine RPM. The unit can be set up permanently or connected when needed. I used
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Engine Transmission While Sailing- Fixed and Special Props Warren Elliott Mainsheet Date: 2/1/2005 Hull #: 44
There had been a lot of discussion, and some confusion, on this topic occurring on our Sailnet email group a couple of years ago. The major issue was what gear should be used while sailing, in order to minimize wear on transmission parts, particularly with an Autoprop. This is an unusual prop, so different rules may apply. A secondary problem is the special transmission clutch used on our Yanmar engines, which are found on the newer C380’s and on all C387’s and C390’s. With additional knowledge and experience gathered over time, a report on this subject seems appropriate.
To start things off on the engine side of the issue, I contacted Joe Joyce at Westerbeke for info on this issue with regard to their 42B engine. Those of us with older 380’s [up to
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At the August east coast Catalina Rendezvous, Richard Mastry of Mastry Engine Center spoke on related topics. Mastry is the Yanmar engine supplier to Catalina for our later C380s, C387s and C390s. I spoke with him after his talk. and again, at some length, on the phone a few weeks later. I concentrated my queries on props and RPM’s, as our Sailnet list discussions have been pretty heavy on this subject. Here’s his comments.
New Engine
First, Mr. Mastry spoke about the new Yanmar 3JH4xx engine, delivered for C387’s beginning about hull # 60. The major changes include larger diameter cylinders, lower working RPMs and some user-friendly upgrades including rearranging the salt water pump for ease of impeller and/or pump change. The transmission reduction gear has also been changed to 2.33 ratio, so that the shaft RPM’s will be closer to that of
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