My westerbeke 42b has run for years flawlessly. Several days ago it began to
stall. Suspected it was starved fotbfeul and I raced primary an secondary filters. They came out black and grimy. Since then engine still stalls after running at 3/4 throttle for 15 minutes. Seems starved for fuel.
Any ideas?
Check that the electric fuel pump is working. I had a loose connection on the fuel pump wiring that caused a similar problem. Fuel pump should click during glow plug operation and when the engine is running.
Paul McManus
Sea Sea Rider C380 #185
Port Orchard, WA
I had the same problem. It was a clogged fuel line with lots of gunk inside the fuel tank. You will need to clean the line and the tank, and replace both filters. I had the work done by a mechanic. He also recommended a fuel additive to prevent
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I’m heading up to the boat tomorrow to knock out some projects before going sailing we have friends join us for Labor day weekend. My top priority is to replace the 12 year old hot water heater, that has sprung a leak. I did thoroughly check for leaks at connections and pretty confident it’s time to replace it.
I’ve purchased a Quick Nautic B3 3012SL, 1200 Watt, 8 gallon stainless steel tank boiler to replace the Seaward F1100 with it’s 11 gallon aluminum tank. I found the following comment on another blog which really resonated with me, since I also replace the seaward boiler on our Catalina 30 after it started leaking as well.
“Atwood, Force Ten (Kuumha) & Seaward’s – These square water heaters look to be all made by the same company and re-badged. They all feature a stainless steel JACKET but an ALUMINUM tank! Buyer beware!”
“At
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I came across this on another Catalina site and thought it would be of value to our members as well. The following analysis comes from U.S. Master Marine Surveyor Rob Scanlan and is presented courtesy of RCR Yachts.
Key-numbers as to how likely the problem:
[1]-Very Common.
[2]-Common.
[3]-Possible.
[4]-Rare.
[5]-Very Rare
Black Smoke is caused by partially burned fuel. When the fuel/air mixture increases there is insufficient oxygen present in the cylinders to complete the combustion process. Large quantities of carbon are then produced which appear from the exhaust as minute black soot particles. Engines with turbochargers have additional sources of black smoke.
Black Smoke Insufficient Air: Causes: Air intake filter clogged [2] – Air intake restricted [3] – Exhaust restricted [3] – Leaking inlet or exhaust valves [4] – Poor engine room ventilation [4]
This past weekend we lost reverse when maneuvering to anchor. On investigation it appears all is well with the transmission, however, the transmission cable (called a clutch cable by Edson) is not communicating in the push direction with the transmission shift lever. We removed the compass and pedestal cover which revealed the steering chain and clutch cable and throttle cable attachment points. All appears intact. The problem is the cable sheath appears to have come loose from a mounting point below the shift lever (perhaps 6 inches below the shift lever crossbar). The cable doesn’t move inside the outer sheath at the transmission.
My question is, how do you replace the clutch cable and in particular how is it attached inside the pedestal? I didn’t see anything on the Edson website on how to gain access inside the pedestal.
FYI. Removing the black plastic compass base was a nightmare. There
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We were heading out on our annual trip to the San Juan and Gulf islands and found that the Radar wasn’t working. We have had to go in fog the last couple times and decide not to go without radar. Raymarine doesn’t make the old non digital raydomes anymore. They will service the old raydomes for $575. But it will take several weeks. The new digital Raydomes are not compatible with my RL70C chartplotter so I am considering buying the E7 and a new Digital Raydome. I would love to hear comments from anyone who has this setup. Specifically how it works with the old Seatalk 6000 plus autopilot, depth, wind, and speed instruments.
Paul McManus
Sea Sea Rider C380 #185
Port Orchard, WA
Paul,
I do not have the radar but I bought a new c125 this year. It’s the same family as the e7 just bigger and without
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Shortly after purchasing our 380, I found the galley “thruhull” to be leaking near the base. A quick haul, yard replacement, and $1K later, I realized this might not have been so serious. The PO had serviced the valve and stripped some threads on some of the stainless screws that hold the body together. The thru hull was not leaking, the valve body was. We could have used the plug that comes in the handle to close off the outside opening (from the water), screwed off the body, and screwed on a new one. Lessons – ascertain what is leaking; in my view its very unlikely that its the thru hull. If you take apart a valve to service, be very careful when putting back together.
This past winter I replaced the engine cooling water thru hull and valve – it had been
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For those (like me) who didn’t know the term “dead light”, those are the pure plexiglass windows on the sides of our cabins, i.e. not the “port lights” which are the oval ports with aluminum frames…
I asked for advice on rebedding these to eliminate a persistent leak. The following is the information provided:
Tom,
I purchased the 2 port side deadlights from Catalina. They suggested Dow Corning 795 in Black. Their price was over $20 per tube, I bought it at a supply house in Catonsville for under $15. I had an automotive glasser do mine, I wouldn’t recommend them. When you do them you can get some wood slats to wedge between the sheet tracks and the hand rail and put sponges under the slats to hold the deadlight tightly while curing. Blue painters tape also.
Good luck,
Skip
C.S.Wilkins
Assuming that you referring to one of the
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On my C387 #96, there is a blower switch on the engine control panel at the helm that has always baffled me. It simply gives you control over the blower when the engine is running but doesn’t allow you to control the blower when the engine is not running. Personally, I can’t see a reason why I would want it turned off at all when the engine is running. I would always want it on. Then again, the plastic cover on the switch is clouded over enough that you really can’t tell whether the switch is turned on or off so your only indicator is hearing it come on when the ignition switch is first turned on.
I want the blower to always run when the ignition is on but also want the ability to turn it on independent of the ignition switch. When I arrive at an anchorage and
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