I am currently dealing with this issue because of discoloration caused by battery acid from a sloppy installer.
I have found that golden pecan and golden oak from minwax stain and sealer in one are a very close match on our 2005 387.
Ed Wolf
387, hull 82
I’ve added some teak to the cabin In the past and got a very good match. I look for the lightest colored teak wood that I can find and then coat it with Goldstar satin #60. You can’t really tell the difference. I’m doing some work right now where the old TV was. The wood I purchased was a bit darker then what I’ve used in the past and I can see a slight difference from some angles, but it is passable. I don ‘t know if staining is required? The varnish seems to give the correct color to the wood.
Bob
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The boson’s chair is attached to the free halyard. As Phill pointed out, since you need to get above the top of the mast you need to have very short connections on all the tie-off points
Slide the safety harness climbing device as you move up or down the mast. Entire setups are available in Home Depot that works just fine
Ascending:
Put one foot in the Prussic knot
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Yesterday I took a new wind vane and anemometer up the mast (the plastic wind vane is broken). The yard had gotten replacements that looked like exact duplicates from the deck. It turns out that the old instruments (ST60) are attached with a tiny Alan screw on the side whereas the new ones have a small screw in the middle. Upon removing the wind vane we found only a solid stud with an indent for the Allan screw. There was no hole in the center of the stud that would accept the screw.
Has anyone replaced these components, and do you know if the old type with the Allan screw are available? I will head over to the yard later today but it would be nice to be armed with more information. The manual on the Tech CD doesn’t give any part numbers for the wind vane.
Thanks,
Craig Spear
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Last weekend we used the shower for the first time this year. A significant leak quickly developed. Water entered the main salon at the seam between the teak panelling and the sole just to the right of the nav station. The shower pan looks fine. The leak could be coming from the seam between the shower wall and the shower pan or possibly something underneath associated with the shower drain. Does anyone have experience with this kind of leak?
Rick Stewart
s/v Moon Eye
C380, #51
I re-caulked all the shower seams year before last. The trick is to make sure you get all the old silicone off because silicone sealant doesn’t adhere to itself. I removed all the trim, used scribes, sandpaper, and silicone remover, making sure to remove it completely. Thoroughly wiped surfaces with MEK, then re-applied the highest quality silicone sealant I could find, pushing it deeply
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Warren Elliot
C380 #44 My Bride II. Mainsheet Summer 2012
How can this be, you ask?? We’re talking about a pretty simple hunk of metal…so what’s the story??
The story starts back in mid summer last year, when the admiral and I were cruising our C380 in waters just short of Cape Cod, about 100 miles east of our Long Island Sound home port of New Haven, CT. Our mission was to do a bit of visiting/exploring for several days before heading into New Bedford, MA for the Catalina East Coast Rendezvous.
This was, by most standards, a pretty nice day except that, even with the sails set, it unfortunately required mechanical horsepower to attain any reasonable forward speed, particularly as our destination was quite a few miles off. The day passed uneventfully until I decided to do one of my “daily” engine checks. So the admiral took over the
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The replacement sender unit from Ezell is a totally improved design with a rigid ss vertical bar that a magnetic or something floats up and down on. Unlike the current unit with the resistive electronics in the fuel tank, everything is now external to the fuel tank. Much better design, and for a mere $29 well worth the upgrade. The current unit is a flimsy float hinged on a dangling peice of thick wire that connects to a peice of plastic that changes resistance based on how the flimsy wire happens to be dangling. Not too impressive in my fuel tank. I would replace even if its working!
Ezell is at (850) 578-2558, assuming they are the manufacturers of your fuel tank. I have the 26 gal tank, newer boats #179 on have the 34 gal tank. My part number was WEMA-11 Sending Unit (C380- 26 gal). It is a
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I’m sure many know this trick and issue but the boat next to mine didn’t so I thought I would post it.
The symptom started with their Xantrex Inverter having trouble starting. It would simply shut down as soon as it looked like it was beginning to start. The battery monitor on the panel really showed the problem – a DC voltage of 12.2 volts on fully charged batteries – not enough for the Xantrex to work. Though the problem was first recognized as the Xantrex not working, there would ultimately be other problems showing up as well with electronics not working or the engine not starting.
Using a digital volt meter, I could show him that the voltage from the battery terminals was 12.9 volts simply by putting the red lead on the positive terminal and the black on the negative terminal. What was not obvious to the captain
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I installed a ShurFlo Smartsensor 5.7 a few years ago. It is a variable speed pump, runs very quiet, and gives a lot of pressure. No problem with the fittings. Never had a leak with the 60 lb pressure the pump delivers. Only problem is getting used to the idea that a lot of water is going to come out when you open the faucet. Takes some getting used to or you will waste a lot of water. I installed it to eliminate the noisy water pump on an electric head.
I have the Snake River Ultra 8 Tank Monitor on my C387 #96 and finally after a few years of messing with it finally figured it all out. Originally, the installer wired the blue and red wires backwards on all tanks. (Got that figured out year one and fixed.) Even then the waste tank monitor did not function. That became this year’s project.
What I discovered was this. The holding tank has two strips painted down the side that are supposed to eliminate the need for the foil strips that are used on the other tanks. Onto this was attached the copper foil patches wired to the sensor which was wired to the control head. At least on my holding tank, there was no electrical connection between the copper patches and the conductive strips on the tank. The symptom of this was that the reading was always empty until the
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