(In response to a request asking for advice on a leaking thru-hull…)
Jack,
I had a leaking seacock on my C380 Hull #5 about 4 years ago. It is important to figure out what part of the seacock is leaking. My leak was between the valve bottom flange and the hull. When I launched in the spring the wood had dried out over the winter and shrunk a little and thus a leak. As the wood absorbed some of the water it would expand and in a few weeks it would stop for the summer. The following fall on the hard I removed the seacock and re-bedded it. It was an interesting project but one I would not attempt in the water. On the other hand, if the leak is something to do with the valve above the base flange it is doable in the water. If it were me,
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From a post on the C-320 list a few years ago on this very problem:
Well this has turned into an interesting project. For those late to the telling, my fuel guage is reading ‘Full’ all of the time, so I replaced my float unit in the tank and that didn’t cure the problem.
With no input from the list on my query as to whether there was any advice other than ‘replace the guage’, I turned to Catalina to order a new guage. They promptly referred me to Seaward where I wound up with Lonnie (562-699-7997 ext. 213). He was extremely helpful to me and when I expressed my intention of posting this report to this list, he volunteered that I should provide his contact information in the event anyone had further questions. They are very proud of their products at Seaward and clearly dedicated to customer service.
It
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Checking the torque on the keel bolts presents interesting challenges. First is the problem of creating a socket that will extend the length of the portion of the keel bolt that is showing in order to reach the 1″ keel bolt itself. Secondly, you need a torque wrench capabile of measuring the required torque. You also need a cheater bar or torque multiplier to exert enough force to achieve the number. I have not found a force multiplier, however, that will fit in the tight space available.
As to how much torque to apply:
“From everything I could research I was aiming for 235-250 ft lbs of torque
Paul”
A few of our captains have created their own wrenches:
On the keel bolt question, if the boat is on the hard it maybe more desirable but I had good luck with mine while in the water. On my C380 hull
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Last season I noticed that the companionway hatch was becoming harder to open all the way. I assumed accumulation foreign debris and that a thorough spring cleaning would suffice. When a full force hose flush didn’t help much, I decided to remove the sea hood. To my surprise, upon lifting the sea hood my fingers sank quickly into spongy wood.
What I found was that Catalina uses a one inch wide piece of three quarters thick plywood encased in each side of the sea hood. They did a decent job of encasing it, but then drilled holes through it to attach the piece! Over time water found its way into the plywood, and the rest is history.
The story has a happy ending. Two days of chipping, chiseling, and grinding to remove the offending wood left a nice new
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Last night was the first night this year we slept on high priority. For the first time ever the bulge pump wet on while we were sleeping. I sponged all the water from the main bilge , no water migrating from the back or front appears to be slowly building around the bolts closest to the bulge pump. Never seemed to have this issue last year I searched some older threads on the web site and see some have had loose bolts in the past. Did you have success in retorqueing while in the water? Sounds as if torquing them on the hard while the weight is on the keel would be better?
Just splashed 2 weeks ago and really don’t want to haul out again if at all possible
Thanks Paul
Hull 170
Bronte
Paul;
Torque away!
Bring them all up to the recommended torque setting evenly and
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Hi,
My throttle has started to slip a bit. If I set it for 2600 rpm, it will slip down to 2400 after a few minutes a hold there. A piece of string held it at 2600 for 2 hours the other day. Is the slippage at the engine or in the pedestal? Is there an adjustment for movement of the throttle??
Thanks in advance.
Bob
Xanadu C380 #243 Pelham, NY
The throttle cable does have an adjusting screw inside the pedestal, which would be the obvious fix for this. Unfortunately, in our case, the navpod is positioned so that the compass cannot be removed without removing the navpod for the chart plotter/radar. It can be done, but takes more than just a few moments. The clamp my wife mentioned to you works great, is visible for inspection and only puts a small amount of pressure on the cable.
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I just flushed the system with Peak radiator flush and added new Prestone Premixed Dex-Cool antifreeze. It took about 1.25 gallons of premixed antifreeze. I plan to flush the system every 5 or 6 years and replace the antifreeze every 2 to 3.
Steps were as follows:
I removed the thermostat. It’s your choice on whether to do that. With it removed the engine won’t heat up much during the flush, but you won’t have to wait for it to reach operating temperature and open the thermo on each of these steps.
Drain the antifreeze from the system at the 2 drain fittings. The heat exchanger drain fitting is toward the back of the heat exchanger on the port side (there is a fresh water drain there too). The other antifreeze drain fitting is toward the middle of the engine block on the stbd side. I drained them into the
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Hello all,
My port light was not working after a long trip. I decided to replace both bow lights, port and starboard. The starboard side works fine, but the port does not. I tested with a multi-meter and it only reads 10volts. I checked under the v-berth and see only 2 wires going forward. I guess this is for both lights. Does anyone know where these wires are connnected at? There is no access to these wires without pulling the bow pulpit. Do the screws for the pulpit go only in to glass, or is there a nut beneath?
Thanks,
Russell C380 #20
Hi Russell,
I replaced my bow lights with sealed Hella Led units last year. I wanted to maintain the continuous integrity of the wire on these lights so I did pull the pulpit. My bow pulpit has machine screws that thread into an aluminum plate embedded
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In the vberth.. The lower forward most compartment has standing water…. It seems that water seems through the forward wall which is fiberglass… Behind this wall is unreachable, as it is under the anchor locker. I can only assume that there is a crack in the anchor locker drain hose that ends up filling the space between the bow/hull and the forward wall.. It eventually seeps through… The white coating on the fiberglass has chipped off when I knocked it….Msgr
Has anyone had this issue? Again there is little to no access to around the anchor locker.. Not sure what to do with this one..
-ken c380 #176
Even after the leak is fixed, it is still a good idea to drill a drain hole that goes under the floor of the forward water tank so that any moisture that does accumulate in the very forward compartment will drain
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