C387 boats have had two types of Yanmar engines — 3JH3xx and 3JH4xx. Note that the 3JH3 engine has a much higher engine RPM to reach max horsepower. Note also that this means that the transmission will also be different. The change to 3JH4 engines took place around hull #60. The following is the specification for the 3JH3 engine:
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New boat to us, and previous owner did not have the knotmeter installed in hull fitting, just the plug was installed. Boat is still on the hard, and bottom of plug has bottom paint on it, which led us to believe that the knotmeter was not working.
Was able to get someone to watch meter while I turned the paddlewheel. Meter is working, but paddlewheel is binding, and I doubt if it would turn at all at very low speed.
Any work that has to be done on the sender unit is highly restricted because of the length of free cable and it’s position in the forward cabin.
Two questions;
1. Has anyone ever cut the cable and installed male and female plugs in order to remove sender from boat and work on it
2. Before I attempt to remove the pin, and ream out hole in the paddlewheel with
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Since I’ve not pulled the mast on our C380, I can’t definitively speak to the conduit in the mast. Yet, I’m pretty confident that you can use the old radar cable to pull the new digital cable through the existing conduit. From the diagrams in the manual, the digital cables look to be about the same diameter or smaller. They should be smaller since coax has been replaced by digital signal wires, along the more efficient digital scanner drawing less current.
The Raymarine digital radar manual provides extension cable part numbers. These are likely the appropriate part numbers, but check to be sure.
2.5 m (8.2 ft) extension cable A92141
5 m (16.4 ft) extension cable A55080
10 m (32.8 ft) extension cable A55081
Historically it wasn’t a good idea to splice coax radar cables, but now that the cables are digital, it’s probably not as critical. If you feel
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I installed my digital radar two years ago with the mast down. It was a new installation so new mounting hole in the mast for the cable, tapping holes in the masts etc. It is low enough though to use an extension later to install just above the first spreader and above the deck/steaming light. If you had a makeshift scaffold would save you from being a contortionist.
The Cat 5 cable is functional and I have used it for testing and temporary use, but there are several significant differences. First Cat 5 cable is solid wire and not the best choice on our boat, Raymarine is stranded. The Raymarine has a metal housing which may provide continuity of the shield which Cat 5 does not have. The waterproof outer housing at the chartplotter may be an advantage, as I did get moisture in the connector at the back of
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We have 2 Marine Air units 16000 btu and 7500 btu. The larger one is installed under the forward port settee in the salon the smaller is installed in the port closet in the aft cabin. They have work well over the past 10 years. One feature is the humidity mode that we use when we left the boat in the Rio Dulce, Guatemala 6 months each year for 5 years. The boat would be just as we left it in June when we returned in January.
With regard to a generator we used a Honda 2000 for the years we had Up Jinks in Central America. It is quiet and efficient. The only down side is it uses gasoline which we kept in a 5 gallon can secured on the deck. While cruising we would keep the generator in the space between the laserettes just in front of the
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I have a 12000btu mermaid model on my 380. It heats as well as cools. There is a spare slot on the A/C power panel for the wiring.
I installed the unit as you suggest under the aft part of the port setee. The control box is in that area, as well. I draw the intake air from the forward section of the settee and discharge the cool air directly out the side of the settee – towards the nav station. The grill has deflectors so I can move the cold air upwards and to both sides.
I have a number of Hella fans that I use to move the cool air around the boat. I put the intake thru hull in the same compartment as the shower pump and the strainer and water pump in the bilge area adjacent to the thru hull. The outlet is on the port
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My unit is installed under the settee storage area in front of the gally sink with the return cut out in the same area facing the table. I was able to get ducts to all three cabins of the boat but this was a little tricky.
My unit is a 16000 btu unit and came with a 6″x6″x4″ fitting which i mounted right off the unit. So for the main cabin i ran 6″ flex duct through the port side settee it tucked in neatly along side the water tank into the vanity in the vee berth then up to the med cabinet. There is a hollow between the sink cab and the med cab. (look and measure before you drill or cut the holes) mount your adapted for your main cabin inside the med cab, off of that fitting i cut in a 4″ round fitting and ran across
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Question for those of you who upgraded to a folding or feathering prop. From what I researched so far, it seems like folding is a better way to go, especially with 2 blades. Folding has less drag when sailing but slightly inferior with respect to motoring performance. 3 blades is better for headwinds and waves but has more drag and costs much more. The two best choices for price seem to be Gori 2-blade around $1300 or Flex-o-Fold 3-blade, slightly over $2K. The Gori 3-blade is well over $3K. One thing I couldn’t get a clear answer on was whether folding props reverse blades when backing up or if that is only a feature of feathering props. Can anyone approximate average speed gains? Any improvement with prop walk when backing? Any problems/failures with prop not unfolding? Any maintenance problems from marine growth on the gears? How about the 2-bladers? Anyone
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For anyone who has followed the long and tedious thread on my F-O-F prop, here is the conclusion:
I finally exchanged the blades to 18×11. This is either the perfect pitch or slightly under. An 18×12 would probably work fine too, but the 18×13 was clearly too much. My RPM is around 3750 while it should be 3600. Trouble is, my tach shows inconsistent reading when above 3500 RPM. Bottom line is at the top of my cruising range 3000 RPM boat speed is between 6.7-7.4 knots. This is as good if not slightly better than the fixed 18×12 prop I replaced. Sailing in light air gains ½ knot boat speed when folded. Haven’t had heavier air as of yet which is uncommon this time of year. Prop walk is virtually non-existent. I am very happy with the prop.
One word of caution if you are a prospective F-O-F buyer.
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