I have been considering an electric halyard winch ever since I had a ride on a Catalina 470 a year ago. Not only does it make sail handling much easier, but it can act as a valuable safety aid (if rigged properly) in being able to hoist crew out of the water! In the Bay’s cold waters, timing can be critical.
Gerry (ANTSY #13) was kind enough to share his experiences in installing the Harken equivalent winch on a couple of boats, so I thought I would offer my version with Lewmar. The #40 EST is a new, geared, winch that replaces the much less capable OP1 but now discontinued. As the #40 EST is horizontal mounted below decks, the installation is very similar to the Harken. I selected the Lewmar because it matched the other winches and has
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Keeping the anchor locker closed, whether to prevent it from opening in a heavy sea or to keep thieves out of it, requires some kind of lock. One solution is a lockable hasp on deck, but a lock can be cut and it is a toe-banger. Some of us have taken an inside approach. It is quite practical to attach a ¼ inch line to the inside of the hatch (where the holding open cable is mounted) and run the line to a cleat in the v-berth. The photo shows the internal installation, using a stainless jam cleat. It is important that the hole be positioned just under its attachment to the locker lid where the line can be pulled the tightest. There must be no slack. I used a surface-mounted turning block in the locker at the exiting hole to
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I spoke with Jerry Douglas about this long suffering problem. According to Jerry, all tanks up to boat 177 were 27.5 gallons as determined by outside measurement allowing for wall thickness, etc. Boat 178 will have a 34.3 gallon tank. The new tank can be retrofitted via a drop in; ie, no fiberglass work. It costs $322.35 FOB factory.
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Filter Pressure Drop Gauge
From January 99 Mainsheet
2/1/1999
This might be a good time to bring up the issue of fuel filters. Either we clean them regularly (and most of us probably do not) or they slowly clog up and interfere with proper flow to the engine, maybe when the engine is most needed! It would take only one bad batch of fuel to clog the filter.
Consider adding a fuel suction meter in the line between tank and fuel pump. This meter will give you an absolute indication of the pump suction required to bring fuel from the tank. Mark the pressure with a clean filter and, when it increases, check the filter. The cost of installation and parts was about $120.00. It can be tee’d into the fuel line anywhere and does not require fuel system bleeding. Not too bad for peace of mind whilst at sea.
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Water Heater Upgrade
From January 99 Mainsheet
2/1/1999
An upgrade is available from Westerbeke to improve engine-sourced hot water.
This moves the hose connections for the hot water heater from the original port side of the engine to a set of connections at the water pump and thermostat. A new fitting is required for the thermostat housing tap. The water pump housing has an extra tap that can be used. Samantha (#31) has been configured in this manner and the hot water whilst cruising has been very nice indeed.
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Condensation in the Refrigerator
Jim Jaeschke
9/1/1998
Hull #: 73
On Electra we started noticing in our second season a lot of condensation on the tops of cans in the top part of the refrigerator and also on the top of the refrigerator itself. We performed the dollar bill test which is closing the top cover of the refrigerator with a dollar bill located between the cover and the rubber seal. We found that the dollar bill pulled out easily in several locations along the perimeter which showed that the rubber seal was not touching the top. It was probably compressed from my putting a heavy tool box on the counter. A new one was installed.
I also checked, as suggested by other owners, the junction of the counter top and the top of the refrigerator. I found as they had, a gap that could leak air. I sealed the
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The pivot at the mast end of the vang turns on a pin held in place by only a cotter pin through the center. Nothing else holds it in place, and the cotter pin is liable to shear, dropping the pivot pin completely out of the fitting and releasing the vang from the mast. Pending a ‘fix’ for this problem, please check the cotter pin for wear and replace it at least once each season.
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Something to keep an eye on is the screws that attach the boom vang to the boom.
The fitting on the end of the vang is secured with two screws and nyloninsert nuts. One of the nuts backed off and released the end of the fitting at the boom. The other screw was still in place but its’ nut was loose. Luckily I noticed the loose fitting before it did any major damage to itself or the boom.
Since the vang is in the way of tightening one of the screws I replaced both screws with hex head bolts, washers, and new nuts (you should not reuse nylon insert nuts, they loose their holding power). You gain access to the nuts by way of the inspection plate on the boom but to get to the forward screw to remove
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I finally got my problem solved. When we ordered our new C380, we ordered it with a Garmin 215 GPS with Differential built in. Well, the GPS worked fine but no differential. The dealer and the West Marine rep tried everything but still no workie. (I forgot to tell you I also had a inverter installed as well) By luck the rigger who was working on my boat turned off the inverter and lo and behold the differential started to work. So, after rewiring, trying a new GPS and new antennas, it was just interference from the inverter. So, I do not use the inverter when under way.
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I have received a copy of a letter dated 10/15/1998 from Catalina regarding the anchor windlass circuit breakers on 380’s and 400’s. Apparently, some boats left the factory with 80 amp. breakers in stead of the 135 amp. It’s only a problem under high loads, but all should check. The red PUSH-PULL bottom button has the capacity stamped on it. Should you have the 80, contact Ralph Torres @ Seaward.
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