Category Archives: Repair/Replace/Maintain

Lewmar Electric Halyard Winch Upgrade

Lewmar Electric Halyard Winch Upgrade
Scott Brear

5/1/2000
Hull #: 44

I have been considering an electric halyard winch ever since I had a ride on a Catalina 470 a year ago. Not only does it make sail handling much easier, but it can act as a valuable safety aid (if rigged properly) in being able to hoist crew out of the water! In the Bay’s cold waters, timing can be critical.

Gerry (ANTSY #13) was kind enough to share his experiences in installing the Harken equivalent winch on a couple of boats, so I thought I would offer my version with Lewmar. The #40 EST is a new, geared, winch that replaces the much less capable OP1 but now discontinued. As the #40 EST is horizontal mounted below decks, the installation is very similar to the Harken. I selected the Lewmar because it matched the other winches and has

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Westerbeke Water Heater Upgrade

Water Heater Upgrade
From January 99 Mainsheet
2/1/1999

An upgrade is available from Westerbeke to improve engine-sourced hot water.

This moves the hose connections for the hot water heater from the original port side of the engine to a set of connections at the water pump and thermostat. A new fitting is required for the thermostat housing tap. The water pump housing has an extra tap that can be used. Samantha (#31) has been configured in this manner and the hot water whilst cruising has been very nice indeed.

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Anchor Locker Lock

Anchor Locker Lock
Scott Brear
2/1/1999
Hull #: 0

Keeping the anchor locker closed, whether to prevent it from opening in a heavy sea or to keep thieves out of it, requires some kind of lock. One solution is a lockable hasp on deck, but a lock can be cut and it is a toe-banger. Some of us have taken an inside approach. It is quite practical to attach a ¼ inch line to the inside of the hatch (where the holding open cable is mounted) and run the line to a cleat in the v-berth. The photo shows the internal installation, using a stainless jam cleat. It is important that the hole be positioned just under its attachment to the locker lid where the line can be pulled the tightest. There must be no slack. I used a surface-mounted turning block in the locker at the exiting hole to

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Fuel Tank Size

Fuel Tank Size
Scott Brear

2/1/1999
Hull #: 31

I spoke with Jerry Douglas about this long suffering problem. According to Jerry, all tanks up to boat 177 were 27.5 gallons as determined by outside measurement allowing for wall thickness, etc. Boat 178 will have a 34.3 gallon tank. The new tank can be retrofitted via a drop in; ie, no fiberglass work. It costs $322.35 FOB factory.

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Filter Pressure Drop Gauge

Filter Pressure Drop Gauge
From January 99 Mainsheet
2/1/1999

This might be a good time to bring up the issue of fuel filters. Either we clean them regularly (and most of us probably do not) or they slowly clog up and interfere with proper flow to the engine, maybe when the engine is most needed! It would take only one bad batch of fuel to clog the filter.

Consider adding a fuel suction meter in the line between tank and fuel pump. This meter will give you an absolute indication of the pump suction required to bring fuel from the tank. Mark the pressure with a clean filter and, when it increases, check the filter. The cost of installation and parts was about $120.00. It can be tee’d into the fuel line anywhere and does not require fuel system bleeding. Not too bad for peace of mind whilst at sea.

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Dutchman/Boom Lift

Dutchman/Boom Lift
Dave Peffer
11/1/1997
Hull #: 20

Earlier hull numbers have an adjustable two-part boom lift designed to permit setting up the Dutchman exactly. This has a nasty tendency to shake out of the cam cleat at the end of the boom, and re-setting it with the sail luffing is no picnic. I opted to set the system up perfectly, then whipped the two parts of the boom lift together just above the cam cleat. No more loose line and the whipping can easily be cut when necessary.

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Vibration Under Power

Vibration Under Power
Jim Jaeschke

5/1/1998
Hull #: 73

Last summer I always felt that there was just a little too much vibration when under power. This winter I took the propeller off sent it to Michigan Wheel. They found that there was a burr in the taper of the propeller. I also took some valve grinding compound and ground the tapers on the shaft and propeller to match. This helped to reduce the vibration level.

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Dock Side Water Connection

Dock Side Water Connection
Dave Peffer
7/1/1998
Hull #: 20

A few weeks ago we were asked by the Coast Guard to display a life jacket for each passenger, requiring us to take one of the PFD bags out of the lazarette. The gal who put it back in didn’t see that sneaky blue tube, and hung up the bag on it, then pushed extra hard. Result: the right-angle fitting from the regulator cracked. When we fired up the fresh water to do dishes the pump ran on and on, but we had no pressure. It took awhile to find this blasted leak!

I have temporarily plugged the end of the tube after removing the fittings, but have to replace the thing if I ever want to use the dockside connection for water. Those who have not (yet) broken it can avoid the problem by disconnecting the blue tube, turning

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Anchor Detent

Anchor Detent
Dave Peffer
10/1/1998
Hull #: 20

The anchor locker provides no place to install a chain lock, which is required to keep the anchor locked on the roller underway. I made one up as follows: a short length of 3/16″ stainless wire (length depends on the length of your anchor stock) with a lifeline pelican hook (West Marine model #543132, which adjusts in length) swaged on one end, a stainless thimble nice-pressed on the other. A galvanized shackle attaches this to the bitter-end padeye in the anchor locker. The pelican hook goes through a chain link as close as possible to the anchor, and the adjustment on the hook allows this to be snug. The anchor is not going to fall overboard. This can also be used to snub the chain and allow you to transition the chain to the gypsy while raising the anchor if you do

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Condensation in the Refrigerator

Condensation in the Refrigerator
Jim Jaeschke
9/1/1998
Hull #: 73

On Electra we started noticing in our second season a lot of condensation on the tops of cans in the top part of the refrigerator and also on the top of the refrigerator itself. We performed the dollar bill test which is closing the top cover of the refrigerator with a dollar bill located between the cover and the rubber seal. We found that the dollar bill pulled out easily in several locations along the perimeter which showed that the rubber seal was not touching the top. It was probably compressed from my putting a heavy tool box on the counter. A new one was installed.

I also checked, as suggested by other owners, the junction of the counter top and the top of the refrigerator. I found as they had, a gap that could leak air. I sealed the

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