I have been considering an electric halyard winch ever since I had a ride on a Catalina 470 a year ago. Not only does it make sail handling much easier, but it can act as a valuable safety aid (if rigged properly) in being able to hoist crew out of the water! In the Bay’s cold waters, timing can be critical.
Gerry (ANTSY #13) was kind enough to share his experiences in installing the Harken equivalent winch on a couple of boats, so I thought I would offer my version with Lewmar. The #40 EST is a new, geared, winch that replaces the much less capable OP1 but now discontinued. As the #40 EST is horizontal mounted below decks, the installation is very similar to the Harken. I selected the Lewmar because it matched the other winches and has
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Filter Pressure Drop Gauge
From January 99 Mainsheet
2/1/1999
This might be a good time to bring up the issue of fuel filters. Either we clean them regularly (and most of us probably do not) or they slowly clog up and interfere with proper flow to the engine, maybe when the engine is most needed! It would take only one bad batch of fuel to clog the filter.
Consider adding a fuel suction meter in the line between tank and fuel pump. This meter will give you an absolute indication of the pump suction required to bring fuel from the tank. Mark the pressure with a clean filter and, when it increases, check the filter. The cost of installation and parts was about $120.00. It can be tee’d into the fuel line anywhere and does not require fuel system bleeding. Not too bad for peace of mind whilst at sea.
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Water Heater Upgrade
From January 99 Mainsheet
2/1/1999
An upgrade is available from Westerbeke to improve engine-sourced hot water.
This moves the hose connections for the hot water heater from the original port side of the engine to a set of connections at the water pump and thermostat. A new fitting is required for the thermostat housing tap. The water pump housing has an extra tap that can be used. Samantha (#31) has been configured in this manner and the hot water whilst cruising has been very nice indeed.
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Keeping the anchor locker closed, whether to prevent it from opening in a heavy sea or to keep thieves out of it, requires some kind of lock. One solution is a lockable hasp on deck, but a lock can be cut and it is a toe-banger. Some of us have taken an inside approach. It is quite practical to attach a ¼ inch line to the inside of the hatch (where the holding open cable is mounted) and run the line to a cleat in the v-berth. The photo shows the internal installation, using a stainless jam cleat. It is important that the hole be positioned just under its attachment to the locker lid where the line can be pulled the tightest. There must be no slack. I used a surface-mounted turning block in the locker at the exiting hole to
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I spoke with Jerry Douglas about this long suffering problem. According to Jerry, all tanks up to boat 177 were 27.5 gallons as determined by outside measurement allowing for wall thickness, etc. Boat 178 will have a 34.3 gallon tank. The new tank can be retrofitted via a drop in; ie, no fiberglass work. It costs $322.35 FOB factory.
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Anchor Chain Specifications
Dave Peffer
8/1/1998
Hull #: 20
The Maxwell windlass manual calls for using 5/16″ short -link chain. They have kindly clarified this, and recommend A.C.C.O. 5/16″ high test chain spliced to 5/8″ 3-strand or multi-plait nylon anchor line. If you want to use the windlass ability to handle both line and chain on the gypsy, a short, tapered splice is required on multi-plait and a full three-part splice (all three strands going through the chain link) is recommended for three-strand. You may get more information or order pre-spliced chain-rode combinations from Maxwell: 1610 Babcock St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627, phone 714-631-2634.
Please note that 5/16″ proof-coil chain, the kind most commonly available at boating stores, slips on the Maxwell gypsy and is VERY DANGEROUS to use. 5/16″ BBB chain fits the gypsy perfectly, but it is not as strong as the chain recommended by Maxwell.
Whether you
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I probably use more antifreeze (AF) than is really necessary, but I don’t mind if it avoids worrying about a broken pipe below the floorboards. I just pump each tank as dry as possible and then drain the water heater. I then re-plumb the water heater, bypassing it to avoid having to waste all the AF it takes to fill it. This requires buying a couple of extra fittings and a short length of the rigid tubing used in the 380 fresh water system.
Parts are available by special order from Whale via West Marine. Then, each tank gets about two gallons of AF.
On the 380, the shortest run from the manifold to a faucet is to the galley faucet. I open the valve for each tank separately and in turn and run water until pink appears at the
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Dutchman/Boom Lift
Dave Peffer
11/1/1997
Hull #: 20
Earlier hull numbers have an adjustable two-part boom lift designed to permit setting up the Dutchman exactly. This has a nasty tendency to shake out of the cam cleat at the end of the boom, and re-setting it with the sail luffing is no picnic. I opted to set the system up perfectly, then whipped the two parts of the boom lift together just above the cam cleat. No more loose line and the whipping can easily be cut when necessary.
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Last summer I always felt that there was just a little too much vibration when under power. This winter I took the propeller off sent it to Michigan Wheel. They found that there was a burr in the taper of the propeller. I also took some valve grinding compound and ground the tapers on the shaft and propeller to match. This helped to reduce the vibration level.
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