The pivot at the mast end of the vang turns on a pin held in place by only a cotter pin through the center. Nothing else holds it in place, and the cotter pin is liable to shear, dropping the pivot pin completely out of the fitting and releasing the vang from the mast. Pending a ‘fix’ for this problem, please check the cotter pin for wear and replace it at least once each season.
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Something to keep an eye on is the screws that attach the boom vang to the boom.
The fitting on the end of the vang is secured with two screws and nyloninsert nuts. One of the nuts backed off and released the end of the fitting at the boom. The other screw was still in place but its’ nut was loose. Luckily I noticed the loose fitting before it did any major damage to itself or the boom.
Since the vang is in the way of tightening one of the screws I replaced both screws with hex head bolts, washers, and new nuts (you should not reuse nylon insert nuts, they loose their holding power). You gain access to the nuts by way of the inspection plate on the boom but to get to the forward screw to remove
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I finally got my problem solved. When we ordered our new C380, we ordered it with a Garmin 215 GPS with Differential built in. Well, the GPS worked fine but no differential. The dealer and the West Marine rep tried everything but still no workie. (I forgot to tell you I also had a inverter installed as well) By luck the rigger who was working on my boat turned off the inverter and lo and behold the differential started to work. So, after rewiring, trying a new GPS and new antennas, it was just interference from the inverter. So, I do not use the inverter when under way.
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I have received a copy of a letter dated 10/15/1998 from Catalina regarding the anchor windlass circuit breakers on 380’s and 400’s. Apparently, some boats left the factory with 80 amp. breakers in stead of the 135 amp. It’s only a problem under high loads, but all should check. The red PUSH-PULL bottom button has the capacity stamped on it. Should you have the 80, contact Ralph Torres @ Seaward.
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Having the GPS mounted on the pedestal is convenient, especially if you have a 12V outlet to power it so you can keep the light on at night. There is not an outlet provided, so I added one. Using a Marinco 12VRC outlet with a rubber cover and a good seal, I placed it on the lower port quadrant on the side of the engine instrument pod, where it would be angled downward to prevent water running down into the barrel of the outlet or around the edge, should the seal fail. Be sure to check for interference with instruments inside the pod before drilling. Inside the pod is a connector block, and I was able to add the wires to appropriate slots on the block without crowding. Caution: the wiring is not heavy enough to support using the outlet for
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Anchor Locker Washdown System
Dave Peffer
5/1/1998
Hull #: 20
Dave Peffer, Hull #20, ‘Spindrift’ has installed a SHURflo Blaster washdown system to clean the chain and anchor as they come aboard. The pump fit on the forward bulkhead under the v-berth sink, taking water from the sink drain. The sink drain plug fits tight, and prevents sucking air when the system is activated. Be sure to replace the drain tubing with non-collapsing hose, which must also be used for the run from the tee to the pump. Double clamp all hose connections. Dave opted not to put a filter in line before the pump to keep pressure high, but will add one if the pump clogs. The hose and electric wire go up through the hole in the cabinet above the sink (used for the amidships water tank fill and vent) with a little extra reaming, then forward in
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Anchor Chain Specifications
Dave Peffer
8/1/1998
Hull #: 20
The Maxwell windlass manual calls for using 5/16″ short -link chain. They have kindly clarified this, and recommend A.C.C.O. 5/16″ high test chain spliced to 5/8″ 3-strand or multi-plait nylon anchor line. If you want to use the windlass ability to handle both line and chain on the gypsy, a short, tapered splice is required on multi-plait and a full three-part splice (all three strands going through the chain link) is recommended for three-strand. You may get more information or order pre-spliced chain-rode combinations from Maxwell: 1610 Babcock St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627, phone 714-631-2634.
Please note that 5/16″ proof-coil chain, the kind most commonly available at boating stores, slips on the Maxwell gypsy and is VERY DANGEROUS to use. 5/16″ BBB chain fits the gypsy perfectly, but it is not as strong as the chain recommended by Maxwell.
Whether you
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I probably use more antifreeze (AF) than is really necessary, but I don’t mind if it avoids worrying about a broken pipe below the floorboards. I just pump each tank as dry as possible and then drain the water heater. I then re-plumb the water heater, bypassing it to avoid having to waste all the AF it takes to fill it. This requires buying a couple of extra fittings and a short length of the rigid tubing used in the 380 fresh water system.
Parts are available by special order from Whale via West Marine. Then, each tank gets about two gallons of AF.
On the 380, the shortest run from the manifold to a faucet is to the galley faucet. I open the valve for each tank separately and in turn and run water until pink appears at the
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