Has anyone replaced the original equipment Seaward 11 gallon hot water tank? If so, how hard was it removing the old one, and with what did you replace it? I think mine might be starting to corrode.
Steve Klegman
C380 #113 Folie A’ Deux
We just replaced ours about two weeks ago. Seems like a lot of them are failing. It came out pretty easily. We disconnected the plumbing from the bottom of the sink and that made it pretty simple to get it out. We went with an eight gallon IsoTherm as a replacement. Seems to work great. Insulation appears to be much better than on the old Seaward. Good luck with it.
Wayne Phillips
C380 #67
Steve – we replaced ours 2 years ago with the exact same unit. It took a solid half day from start to finish.
You have to totally empty the space beneath the
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After calls to two distributors and to Yanmar USA, the answer is that it is a M16-1.5, which happens to be almost but not quite the same dimensions as a 5/8th, fine thread.
Don’t force the imperial nut onto the mount stud.
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I had an interesting conversation with a friend and 320 owner about standing rigging inspection and replacement. We began by him suggesting it was time to replace the lifelines on his 2001 320. We moved to the standing rigging after he told me that the person he spoke to at Catalina told him they recommend replacement every five years. He contacted the current provider of the rigging and they recommended every 10 years.
My question is; how long is too long to have the rigging replaced? Our boats are in So Cal, and in the water all year.
Wes
Spring Fever
C387 #53 (2004)
Marina Del Rey, Ca
Wes
Interesting topic. I’ve heard from several not necessarily definitive sources that rigging in the Puget Sound area tends to last longer due to our rainy climate that continually cleans it. Most people up here are pretty comfortable with 20 year old
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Before you pull the old hose out (through the under sink cabinet) drill a hole in it and attach a line at the tank end. If the hose jams, you can pull it forward again to release it. Then attach the line to the new hose and use it as a guide, have someone pull gently while you push from under the sink. That way the new hose will not go where it wants, but rather where you are guiding it. Use enough new hose length so that you can cut off the few inches with the holes in it. Yes two holes so that you can arrange the leed line to be in the center of the hose. Some tape, creating a cone also helps to guide the hose.
Bob Xanadu
c380, #243
Might help to spray outside of new hose with silicone or Teflon. Warren
I wanted to let everyone know that I was able to find a current supplier. Ocean Equipment (in Bend, Oregon) has begun manufacturing them again. You can’t find them on their website, but you can order by phone.
Randi Harry & Dr. Sam Balsley Barca a Vela|
2001 Catalina 380 #322
Sausalito, CA
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Our water tanks started to leak when over filling. Instead of the water flowing out of the hose that should ventilate the tanks it pushes out of the lid. We also noticed that there is a vacuum in the tanks after use. The hoses are free, without kinks and there is no water standing in them which would prevent air to flow through them. Somebody suggested to clean or even remove the little screen at the end of the vent. That seems like a good idea but I can’t figure out how to get to that screen. From the inside I can only see the fitting that connects the hose to the outside and from the outside there is that little vent cover which I can’t remove.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Sonja
S/V Moondance
C380 #366
Sonja,
I’ve been working on these very problems this week aboard Sea
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I am in the process of buying a new stanchion also. Catalinadirect.com has them. Only problem is they are of a different design and the post through bolts all the way through the fiberglass toe rail. It is a stronger design, and the brace to the lower deck has screws in 1 1/4 inch on center. Old one is about 2 and a half. I have removed the stanchion, filled old holes with epoxy and may get a small stainless steel plate to camouflage old mounting brace holes. I think the gate stanchion is $140.
For other parts you can also check with Catalinayachts.com parts department. They don’t have an on-line catalog but you can tell them what you need. They like a picture. Contact Lisa who runs the parts department. Lisa@CatalinaYachts.com Unfortunately, my shore power plug shorted out over the winter and we had a small fire scorching the
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Early: #1 thru >80 ZSpar (I believe, what you have?)
Mid: <117 thru >304 Charleston
Later (?): >304 Seldon (?) I’m not positive but I think they were all Charlestons til the end (Jay Saxton will know)
I have no idea on 387’s but I’m pretty sure there are Seldon’s as people here have spoken of them. [Editor: My C387 #96 had Charleston Spar]
What I do know is that #117 (at least) through my 199, and probably beyond, have the same masthead casting pictured in the Mainsheet article I did a couple issues ago showing the spinnaker crane installation. I know Paul on 170 has it too. That is the OC2 (Ocean series, number 2) masthead and was used way back in the 80’s on Isomat spars too. Charleston bought Isomat at some point and continued using the castings and extrusions.
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FYI for anyone interested. the pic below is one of the rear main halyard sheaves. As you can see the one side is worn right off. the previous owner had oversized halyards and as you can see bigger isn’t always better. so if you are finding the main harder to hoist or it’s not dropping as easily have a good look at the sheaves. I replaced all 6 with ones from Garhauer with bearings as well as new axles from Rigrite.
Paul
hull 170
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