Category Archives: Repair/Replace/Maintain

Interior Teak Finishing

Had a port light leak that ruined my chart table.   I think Target Enterprises is out of  business, or bought by someone else.

Anyone have luck matching the color from the 380, Hull 140 era?

Earl Poe
Angel’s Wings, 140
earljpoe@swbell.net

 


You can find it at Catalina Direct.

Clay Greene
C387 #30
Cattywampus
Milwaukee, WI

 


I just bought some from these folks.  I called Catalina and they told me about this people.

http://www.finishingzone.com/product/emtech-em2000-waterborne-alkyd-varnish/

Bob
C380 2002 #349
“At Last”

 


Brian, Catalina used the satin finish so that’s what I bought. So far I am very happy with the product.

Bob
C380 2002 #349
“At Last”

 


This information was received recently from Catalina Direct.

Our Satin Interior Varnish was used on Catalinas built from 1995 to 2001. It cures to a very hard, clear film without the use of secondary catalysts. A Semi-Gloss version of this varnish

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Keel Bolt Tightening

The consensus is that the bolts should be tightened while boat is on the hard but several have done this in the water and successfully stopped leaks.


Can the keel, bolts be tightened with my 2005 Catalina in the slip in the water.  I think I might have a slow leak going on. If I they r below torque Specs could that help. What would be the best procedure?

Thanks

Edward Wolf
San Pedro,
California.


Hi Ed,

From everything I’ve read, it should be done out of the water when the weight of the boat is resting on the keel. I’ve always done it just before launch, when hopefully everything is dried out.

The recommended torque is 235-250 ft-lbs.

If you were to try it in the water, the weight of the keel would be hanging on the bolts and the torque required to lift it up would be greater

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Add a wind instrument w/o removing mast?

I have a 2004 C387 without a wind instrument.  I would like to install the Garmin GMI 10.  Does anyone have experience fishing the cable down the mast?  I had a local electronics company look at it and they said the mast would have to come down.  Then they recommended a wireless Raymarine.  I have a coax TV cable  up the mast that I do not use.  Could that be used to pull the new wind instrument cable down?Thanks,

John Kaplan

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Engine would run and then die – Racor problem

I chased a problem in the fuel system for a week during our summer trip.  The engine would run and then die, sometimes 1 minute some times 5-10.

At first thought it was fuel related because there was a little bit of a biology / chemistry experiment in the bottom of the Racor bowl.  Changed filters, twice, but problem continued.  Did the fuel line into the jug test.   This separates the engine from the fuel system so you can narrow down the issue.  Jug trick showed that everything from the Racor to the engine was fine.  I inspected the fuel tank and the pickup tube (no screen installed) and they were clean as a whistle.

So I started thinking air leak. Of course by then I had the Racor apart a few times. On a whim I cracked open another Racor filter to get the new gaskets. It turns out

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Stopping a Runaway Westerbeke

Question raised about a Westerbeke that wouldn’t shutdown.

The circuit breaker right on the engine may have tripped.
I and others have reported this situation as having occurred in the past.
Westerbeke reports that the breakerspring can weaken over time. I have a spare, which I picked up to replace that on our ’93 B-38 but could not loosen one screw, 3 years ago, so left the old breaker after shooting it up w/ WD-40.
The spare is on-board when I need it!

Bob        1994 Cat-Morgan 38cc #44 “LaBoo iv
                 Vancouver, B.C. <bob@laboo.net>

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Raymarine RayStar Battery Replacement

Tom Brantigan
C387 #96 Toccata in Sea

The only reason to write this is that it was a surprise to me that it needed to be done and turned out to be so easy.  The problem was that my Raymarine C80 chart plotter took forever to find its GPS location.  From another association member, I learned that there is a battery inside that needs periodic replacement.  The battery evidently stores the last known location so has a place to start when finding itself next time.

It is easy to do, too.

Step 1:

On my boat the GPS antenna is mounted on the transom with two threaded screws easily removed.  There was an adhesive gasket also holding it to the transom and this needs to be dislodged.

Step 2:

Remove the 6 small screws from the underside of the antenna and then carefully pry up the bottom plate of the

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Stopping a run-away Yanmar 3JH4 Engine

[Webmaster] Yes, there is an emergency shutdown for a 3JH4 Engine.

Emergency Shutdown JH4E

 

I had an incident yesterday afternoon that stumped me for awhile, and concerned me too.  As some background I had wired in a warning light at the helm to alert me when the Racor filter is filing with water.  Since completing this project last week, I had not had an opportunity to use the engine.

Yesterday, I wanted to run the engine for a bit and maybe finally take Alderu out for a day cruise.  I placed the key in the ignition (and possibly turned it, not sure) and the engine just came right on.  No hitting any start buttons, nothing, just key in and RUN.  At first I didn’t even comprehend what was going on, but realized that the Yanmar was running.  None of the instruments were alive; the tach, temp, fuel gauge, etc, all dead. But

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Sticky Gear Shift Cable

Here’s my report on the stiff gear shift issue. I removed the cable from the transmission and moved the shift lever. It was stiff without being attached. Next I removed the head bump cover under the steering pedestal below. I didn’t see any kinks, but a cable holder steers the cable into an “s” turn, so I removed that to give it a more gentle curve. Checked the lever again. Still stiff. I started to remove my compass to get to the insides. Two bolts came easy, two were stuck, so I sprayed them with wd40 and had a beer. For grins, I sprayed some into where the lever goes into the housing. The hole looks to be lined with a Teflon or plastic tube through which the lever passes. I worked it in with a few back and forth, and low and behold it started to free up. Problem

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Replacing the Transmission Cable

OK, I have successfully replaced my Transmission Cable. Here is the info for anyone interested. The final result is a very smooth shift…Sweet!

The cable length is 17 feet (I used a Teleflex, CCX63317). The toughest part of the whole project was getting the Cable holder out. I had to loosen the steering cables at the quadrant in order to shift the chain forward at the top of the binnacle to have enough room to pull the holder out. The left side of the binnacle has a little more room than the right side, so this is the side to use. The other trick was to totally flip the cable holder over to remove it,   Use the two cable like chopsticks as the Edison Tech told me, and flip it so that the bolt side was facing towards the middle of the binnacle (this will only make sense to those

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Forward Lewmar Hatch Leaking

I dimly remember seeing that someone pulled and re-bedded the large v-berth hatch, and posted pictures somewhere. After years of chasing leaks…and unable to locate a new major leak, I ready to do the same.

I checked all the usual suspects, hinge seals, cleaned and lubed the rubber gasket with silicone, etc., to no avail. Run Captain’s Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure in the upper edge of the aluminum hatch frame numerous times…nada! Time to re-bed with plenty of Sikaflex 291 Polyurethane sealant, my time tested favorite!

Water is streaming out the inside plastic trim channel, through the forward and aft screen retention twist retainers. No traceable or visible moisture tracks anywhere outside the trim channel. Looks like the previous owner already sealed the frame screw holes that others have found to be the source of the leak source.

Can anyone point me to/or email me, the pictures of the repair,

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