Category Archives: Repair/Replace/Maintain

Electronics

Raymarine GPS Not Finding the Location — a battery!

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Some of you might’ve seen my message from last week about my Raymarine E80 not finding me upon boot up.  But for some reason being able to find me after 10-15 mins.  Based upon every comment and prior history of Raystar 120/125 discussions I assumed it was a problem with my GPS antenna.  Thinking was focused upon crud that might’ve developed in the connections. And if not not there the Raystar would need to be replaced.

So I tried to remove the cable from the bottom of the Raystar, but couldn’t get it free, I tried this tool and that, no luck.  Eventually I decided it was time to dismantle the Raystar antenna.  And what did I find when I took off the cover/dome?  A CR2032 battery and holder that undoubtedly was designed to store your last known location, so that it would be there on boot up.  This explained

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Water

Fixed Slow Head Sink Drain

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 I found a solution for the slow head sink drain that many of us have complained about. I installed a 3/4″ 90 degree barbed fitting directly below the sink drain tailpiece. I then connected a piece of hose, curving in the longest arc I could fit in the available space, between the fitting and the thru-hull. This curve provides an escape for the air bubble that used to become trapped when the hose was vertical. Just make sure the hose is angled downward from the start or you could create another opportunity for an air bubble. Now the sink drains very nicely even when I’m using high pressure city water.

Jeff
C387 #145

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Rig

Main Halyard Slippage

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Recently replaced main halyard with one of 10 mm VPC. Size was recommended by rigger. Line is certainly strong enough but problem is it slips badly when under load. Clutch will not hold it. It also slips on winch – even with 4 wraps. Clutches are rated for lines as small as 8 mm and many of other lines (reef lines, uphaul, etc.) are that size and do not slip. Is problem new line that needs to be roughed up a little to hold or did I make a mistake by going to smaller size? Any suggestions ?

Stefan Leader
380 #327.

 

Take apart the rope clutch and look at the teeth. Bet you will find they are worn. Replacement parts are available, I ordered from Defender. One I replaced them no more slipping.  I make a point of opening the clutch when I am pulling up the main

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Port Lights

How To Identify Your Lewmar Portlight

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Warren,

When switching the discussion to highlight concurrent changes in portlights, we may be adding an element of confusion. The Old/New portlights don’t fall under the coast/ocean model designation, Lewmar simply designates them as either Old or New Standard portlights. It doesn’t appear that there ever was an “Old coast version”. To add to the confusion there actually was an old Ocean version portlight, that like the old standard portlight has a twist lever. Since Makana Kai has the Lewmar New Standard Portlights, I’m clueless as to whether Catalina equipped older boats with the old standard portlights or Ocean Portlights

That or Bomar’s! [Following link goes to:  How To Identify Your Lewmar Portlight ]

https://www.lewmar.com/node/14691

PS…We’re just happy that our Coastline hatch isn’t leaking any more, as it’s currently raining!

One of my doc mates walked by as I was applying Sikaflex to the hatch frame in preparation for bedding,

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Port Lights

Forward Hatch Replacement

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Just received the following information from Lewmar to my question about parts and what currently produced hatch is a direct replacement for my Coastline Trapezoid 65.

Please see the link for the spares for the coastline hatch.
http://www.lewmar.com

replacement hatch 39965030 low profile http://www.lewmar.com

regards Lewmar Team

Looks just like the Coastline hatch to me.

Jim Turner
“Makana Kai”, 2000 C380, #227

 

Well the hatch is bedded and curing. Learned a few more things about Makana Kai’s Lewmar hatches. Their identified on the lens as the Coastline series not Ocean. The trapezoid one in the V-berth is a 65, the large one in the salon a 40, and the smaller ones 10’s. Richard Stanton and I realized that Hunkydory (C380 #241), docked three slips away, has different hatches, likely Ocean series.

After finding that Lewmar is slow to answer inquiries, and doesn’t stock many parts, I ordered seals from

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Engine, Repair/Replace/Maintain, Uncategorized

How to get the flange off the prop shaft

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I need to replace my PSS. Seems to have worn down.
I got the two flanges (trans side and prop side) separated.
I can NOT seem to get the prop flange off the shaft. I got the set screws out. I can’t budge the key. Seems rusted on, I am stuck.

In a post from April 2010 Warren said to separate the two flanges, put a “spacer” (nut or ratchet set piece) then “insert longer bolts” connecting the two flanges and evenly tighten.

I am not at boat and did NOT bring the existing bolts home.
Does anyone know what type of bolt I need to do this?

-Ken
c380 #176
Newport, RI

 

You can make up the longer “bolts” using booker rod … I think it is 8mm Metric and use a socket spanner for spacer. You should also check for wear of the cutlass bearing …this

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Winches

Winch Cleaning

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Discussion of solvents for cleaning winches:

Good Video on stripping down a Lewmar winch.,..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqCunPhQHw4

I’ve disassembled my Lewmar winch and was attempting to degrease everything using mineral spirits. I didn’t have enough so I went to Lowes to buy more but I found out they no longer supply mineral spirits in my area due to new regulations. The salesman suggested acetone which is doing a very poor job. Any suggestions on a degreasing agent?

Lewmar folks recommend cleaning the winch parts in liquid paraffin which is nothing more than clear lamp oil.  I does a nice job of degreasing without the drying effects of acetone and no more expensive.  I’ve been doing this for years.  Don’t use grease on the pawls or the pawl ratchet, use only light machine oil.  Grease in the pawls will bind them up and they will stop working.  Lewmar has instructions on their web

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Engine

Starter Solenoid

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Well all launched on lake Ontario even though we had strong winds. Minor problem at launch, starter solenoid decided to crap out, I managed to jump the starter solenoid connection and at least get over to the slip.

Has anyone had success in purchasing starter solenoid without having to buy a new starter. I searched Torrenson and local Westerbeke dealer in Ontario but they only list new starters at a small fortune. If I can’t find a solenoid the option is just sending starter to rebuilder for rebuild and new solenoid.

If anyone has had success in finding a solenoid please let me know, greatly appreciated.

Paul
Hull 170
Bronte

 

Paul…

Suggest checking connections.  A bit of corrosion, especially at starter terminals, can produce that symptom, depending on your jumping technique.

Warren
Warrenell@msn.com

Paul

I was able to purchase a new solenoid from Stewart Marine (206) 789-4600 in Seattle

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Head, Repair/Replace/Maintain

Access to Pump out hose just below deck plate

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I need to replace my head storage tank pump out hose. I’m not quite sure how to get access to the connection below the deck plate. There is a small curved liner piece in this area. It looks like I might be able to remove this piece if I work its bedding loose, but I don’t want to attack it without some confirmation that I’m on the right path. Any advice?

Thanks
Mike (s/v Morning Glory)

Mike,
Using pictures from Bob Goldman on Xanadu, last winter I replaced all the sanitary hoses “downstream” of the holding tank i.e. to the macerator pump and to that pump out fitting. I used pvc in lieu of the flexible hoses. The change is spectacular resulting in total elimination of any odor. To make that connection you are asking about I cut the existing hose a few inches below the deck fitting within the

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