There are three screw holes in the lower rudder post bearing.  According to Warren Pandy at Catalina, these were originally to secure the lower bearing to the hull but for a number of years now they have not been used and are unnecessary.  The lower bearing needs to be secured to the boat using 3M 4200.

From Paul, Hull C380, #170

A number of members have talked about problems with their furling main becoming difficult to pull out from the mast in spite of following recommendations of keeping tension on the outhaul when pulling it in and keeping the boom relatively at 90 degrees vis a vis the mast.

My experience with the same issue after 8 years of sailing my 387 was that the sail itself had stretched out such that it didn’t roll up tightly and consistently over the length of the sail.  This caused a bunching in the slot of the mast. For a while, I had to literally pull it out by hand.  North Sails finally diagnosed the problem for me.  A new sail solved the problem.  Recutting the old one was not cost effective.

I have also experienced the furling mechanism getting stuck when the main halyard is not tight and thus lets the hook on

New to association and getting familiar with boat.  Ran across attachment in documents provided by previous owner relating to an overheat problem with the 42B4.  Called Westerbeke  and Catalina support trying to find out if it applied to my boat, hull 191.  Catalina support related that it was discovered in earlier models and fixes were made; Westerbeke  said same.  I asked if thermostat should still be at 160 degrees if fixes were made.  I was advised to keep it at 160 degrees.  I had the engine services by my mechanic and he replaced it with a 180 thermostat, as specked by Westerbeke.  He argues to keep it at 180; I’m on the fence.  Any experienced advice appreciated.

Stage Door Canteen
Bill Poor

Like to know what other members do to bypass the hot water tank during winterizing the water systems. Thank you

Isi and LaMae

S/V Windseeker II

C387 H128