I am considering changing from the present PSS shaft seal system to the Sure Seal. I am getting conflicting opinions regarding the SureSeal. On one hand there are those that claim that the SureSeal system is much more reliable and a change of seals is possible while the boat is on the water. On the other hand, there are those that claim that SureSeal may not be appropriate for 3 cylinder engines and below because of the  excessive vibration of these smaller engines.
Any experience or opinion on this topic is very much appreciated.

I.J. Perez
S/V Windseeker II C387 #128
NJ

Expanding on earlier posts on the same topic, I am please to share some lessons learned from my recent challenges of increasing engine temperature and the decision to remove the heat exchanger for a flush. The engine manual calls this out as due every 4 years or 1000 hours so definetly a routine mainenance task.

Following is a descriptive explanation of the process to both remove and reinstall the heat exchanger as follows:

• Drain the coolant using the drain cock located on the aft side of the heat exchanger housing. You will need plenty of dry rags and a container to collect the coolant ahead of disposal.
• Loosen the alternator adjustment bolts and remove the v belt allowing the alternator to drop away from the front of the heat exchanger.
• Remove the 2 hex key bolts holding the fwd heat exchanger cap in place.
• Tap the cap on the side

Our email list is hosted by Yahoo as a Yahoo group.  You need to subscribe to this list before you can post to it.  Joining the C380 website does not subscribe you to the Yahoo list, you have to do this separately.

Send an email to Catalina380-subscribe@yahoogroups.com requesting to join.  I should then get an email from Yahoo to approve your subscription.  After that you can post to the group.  Be sure to send the email from the email address you want to use for the group emails.  This is how Yahoo works, you are subscribed by your email address.

Catalina Direct is one source:

www.catalinadirect.com

And here’s another.  Note, you click on the C320 and then select the correct boat size (380, 387, etc)

http://www.sailboatlogos.com/

Hello all, we are new to the board and would like to share an experience from last week on the Pamlico sound in NC.  We were motor sailing and suddenly the engine reduced rpm’s and then quit.  It would not restart, did all the fuel things, filter(s) and the like with no luck.  After a day and a half at the boatyard we learned that the exhaust mixing elbow was totally occluded from carbon.  The Yanmar Service tech told us “it’s a 5 year service item”.  We have a Yanmar 3jh3e with 2700 hours on it, and we have owned this boat for 2 years.

Next I would like some info on our 02 380, # 0365.  Our motoring speed @ 2800 rpm is 5 to 5.5 kts.  We are to haul soon and would like to check and may be just replace the prop.  What I have seen on

We’ve lost the transmission on our Catalina 387. It was supplied with a Yanmar 3JH4E engine. The Kanzaki model number is KM35A. Is anybody aware of the availability of re-built or used transmissions? I understand that a new transmission would come from Japan with a lead time of over 70 days.

• I am looking for help identifying my 1998 Catalina/Morgan Center cockpit in mast furling boom outhaul system. My outhaul has lost half its bearings and I am trying to identify who manufactured my system. I am including pictures, does any one have the same system and know who made it.
•  

The following was published by Catalina, at the end of the article is information provided by Russ Monaco who has done the job.  Included are photos on how to brace the window while the adhesive dries.

1. Remove the old window by first cutting around edge then slowly cutting or prying until the window comes away from deck.
2. Scrape or sand away all old adhesive/silicone on the deck’s gel-coat, finish with 40 grit sand paper then wipe away all dust.
3. Do a dry run by positioning the new window in place with the help or masking tape and trace a pencil line onto the brown paper of the inside of the window as it will be installed.
4. Cut away the one inch or so protective paper on the perimeter of the inside edge of the new window. (Note: maintain paper coating on the outside and inside center to protect it from

By: Tim Porter, C380 Tech Ed.

The C380 came with two versions of Garhauer mainsheet travelers; the 1^st generation has the control line coming through the upper part of the rail and thence through a cam-cleat mounted on a plate that is sandwiched between the rail and the sheave-box below the rail. The 2^nd generation traveler, which came in 1999 sometime (likely around the mid-100 hull numbers), uses the same rail but employs a SS plate mounted atop the rail with a similar cam-cleat. Both systems require that the traveler lines pass through the isinglass of a dodger, and require the pass-through to be vertically slotted to accommodate releasing the line from the cam-cleat. This project will move the traveler cam-cleat inside the dodger for both generations of travelers. When it came time to replace the canvas on my boat, I wanted to get rid of the slot

The prop shaft is 1.25 inches.