Some C380s have cabinets built into the salon. Most C387’s do have have these but have more portlights along the wall that makes such an installation more difficult.
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We also went to the gore packing and now no leaks. Around the packing is moist but doesn’t drip. During our first year, the bilge pump never seemed to shut off. I thought he keel bolts were leaking and feared the worst. Actually the bolts were NOT the culprit. Persistence pays off; Just work methodically to eliminate all sources. My culprits were excessive packing leaking and NASTY water in the aft hidden keel bolt space, water leaking down the outside of compression post, and water leaking in from the anchor roller. The anchor roller leak led me to the hidden spaces forward of the V-birth and BELOW the space the forward water tank sits. Water was between the liner and the hull. I pulled the tank, drilled a hole for an inspection plate (be real careful here. The space between the liner and the hull is only an inch or
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Mainsheet September 2012
Jeff Church
Some of us are just a bit obsessive about getting that last quarter of a knot out of our boat. We spend most of our time at the winches and very little behind the helm, which presents a problem. There are no instruments forward of the helm, so how do we know what all that trimming is doing to our boat speed? The usual solution is to have a crew member call out boat speed, or locate a wired repeater somewhere under the dodger. With the proliferation of Apple wireless devices, there is a much easier way to view all of your navigation information from anywhere in the cockpit or even below decks.
The iPad and iPhone have revolutionized many aspects of our lives, and now they are starting to change the boating electronics industry. I discovered this phenomenon last fall at the Annapolis Strictly
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Members of the association have access to the following manuals online:
Adler Barbour Cold Machine 387
Cruisair SMX II Control System Installation
Cruisair SMX II Control Systems (DX) Owner Operation
Cruisair AC Installation Manual
Marine Air AC (Vector Compact)
Maxwell Freedom Installation and Operation Manual
Maxwell RC 800 (Freedom Series)
Maxwell VW 800 (vertical)Anchor Windlass mid 2001 – present
Ritchie Globemaster Compass Manual
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Members of the association have access to the following manuals for download to their local systems:
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(In response to a request asking for advice on a leaking thru-hull…)
Jack,
I had a leaking seacock on my C380 Hull #5 about 4 years ago. It is important to figure out what part of the seacock is leaking. My leak was between the valve bottom flange and the hull. When I launched in the spring the wood had dried out over the winter and shrunk a little and thus a leak. As the wood absorbed some of the water it would expand and in a few weeks it would stop for the summer. The following fall on the hard I removed the seacock and re-bedded it. It was an interesting project but one I would not attempt in the water. On the other hand, if the leak is something to do with the valve above the base flange it is doable in the water. If it were me,
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Hi,
My throttle has started to slip a bit. If I set it for 2600 rpm, it will slip down to 2400 after a few minutes a hold there. A piece of string held it at 2600 for 2 hours the other day. Is the slippage at the engine or in the pedestal? Is there an adjustment for movement of the throttle??
Thanks in advance.
Bob
Xanadu C380 #243 Pelham, NY
The throttle cable does have an adjusting screw inside the pedestal, which would be the obvious fix for this. Unfortunately, in our case, the navpod is positioned so that the compass cannot be removed without removing the navpod for the chart plotter/radar. It can be done, but takes more than just a few moments. The clamp my wife mentioned to you works great, is visible for inspection and only puts a small amount of pressure on the cable.
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Reprinted from Sailnet: Try these products (for Gel-Coat only not intended for Awlgrip)
Buffing and Waxing: The Cliff Note Version:
Steps:
#1-Clean the hull with an acid base cleaner like FSR, oxalic acid or On & Off to remove rust & tannin staining. (only if necessary)
#2-Wet Sand by hand 600 (if real bad) then move up the grits to P1000+ (only if severely oxidized other wise you can start at #3)
#3-3M Marine Rubbing Compound or Presta Gel Coat Compound (use a wool 3M super buff COMPOUND grade pad like the #05711) (if already fairly shiny start at #4)
#4-3M Finesse It or Presta Ultra Cutting Creme (Use a foam 3M #05725 pad or 3M Yellow Wool # 05713)
#5-(OPTIONAL STEP) Presta Chroma – Use 3M #05725 pad or #05713 or Blue Presta wool pad)
#6-Collinite #885 Fleet Wax Paste Version- or 3M
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This link goes to Raymarine’s support site for auto-pilot guides and manuals:
Raymarine Auto-pilot Manuals
This link goes to Raymarine’s support site for all manuals:
Raymarine Manual Search Screen
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HI,
I’m in the process of installing a completly new refrigeration system. In removing the original equipment I found the installation to be lacking. The refrigerant lines run from the compressor to the box in what appears to be a PVC pipe. The lines were insulated for about 6″ from the box and a foot from the compressor. For the entire 12’/14′ run through the PVC there was NO insulation. In fact the two lines were twisted together and taped every 2 -3 feet.
This has to have effected the effiiency of the whole unit and probably contibuted to condensation.
I don’t know if this was a Friday afternoon boat issue, or if everyone has the same condition. If you can get into the aft locker, you can see into the PVC pipe to check the situation on your boat. Removal of the piping was quite easy. I’m not sure
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