Change Athwartship to Centerline

Our 2004 387 was delivered with an athwartship aft bed. As advertised it was very long and my wife Linda and I fit in it quite well lengthwise. I am 6 ft 4 inches tall (or long depending if I’m vertical or horizontal) and had plenty of room. The issue of my wife and I using the head in the middle of the night caused us to think about changing the orientation of the bed to a centerline configuration.

Our boat is in a slip in Marina Del Rey, California, with access to the folks still in this area from the former Catalina factory. We started talking to our rigger, who does most of the commissioning of new Catalina’s at our dock. We talked about how we could extend the platform so we could fit in the bed back to front. We also needed our Webasto forced air heater vents

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Engine Instruments Source

I wanted to let everyone know that I was able to find a current supplier.  Ocean Equipment (in Bend, Oregon) has begun manufacturing them again.  You can’t find them on their website, but you can order by phone.

Randi Harry & Dr. Sam Balsley
Barca a Vela|
2001 Catalina 380 #322
Sausalito, CA

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Tank Vents

Our water tanks started to leak when over filling. Instead of the water flowing out of the hose that should ventilate the tanks it pushes out of the lid. We also noticed that there is a vacuum in the tanks after use. The hoses are free, without kinks and there is no water standing in them which would prevent air to flow through them. Somebody suggested to clean or even remove the little screen at the end of the vent. That seems like a good idea but I can’t figure out how to get to that screen. From the inside I can only see the fitting that connects the hose to the outside and from the outside there is that little vent cover which I can’t remove.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Sonja
S/V Moondance
C380 #366

 


Sonja,

I’ve been working on these very problems this week aboard Sea

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Parts: Stanchion

I am in the process of buying a new stanchion also. Catalinadirect.com has them. Only problem is they are of a different design and the post through bolts all the way through the fiberglass toe rail. It is a stronger design, and the brace to the lower deck has screws in 1 1/4 inch on center. Old one is about 2 and a half. I have removed the stanchion, filled old holes with epoxy and may get a small stainless steel plate to camouflage old mounting brace holes. I think the gate stanchion is $140.

For other parts you can also check with Catalinayachts.com parts department. They don’t have an on-line catalog but you can tell them what you need. They like a picture. Contact Lisa who runs the parts department. Lisa@CatalinaYachts.com Unfortunately, my shore power plug shorted out over the winter and we had a small fire scorching the

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Charleston Spar Parts

Just  a heads up all the Charleston Spar (Sparcraft) replacement parts have all been moved to Rig-rite in RI.

Thanks,
Steve
C380 #93

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Prop Shaft Size

The prop shaft is 1.25 inches.

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Spar Manufacturers

These are the spars that I know about:

Early: #1 thru >80 ZSpar (I believe, what you have?)

Mid: <117 thru >304 Charleston

Later (?): >304 Seldon (?)  I’m not positive but I think they were all Charlestons til the end (Jay Saxton will know)

I have no idea on 387’s but I’m pretty sure there are Seldon’s as people here have spoken of them. [Editor:  My C387 #96 had Charleston Spar]

What I do know is that #117 (at least) through my 199, and probably beyond, have the same masthead casting pictured in the Mainsheet article I did a couple issues ago showing the spinnaker crane installation.  I know Paul on 170 has it too.  That is the OC2 (Ocean series, number 2) masthead and was used way back in the 80’s on Isomat spars too.  Charleston bought Isomat at some point and continued using the castings and extrusions. 

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Mast Sheaves

FYI for anyone interested. the pic below is one of the rear main halyard sheaves. As you can see the one side is worn right off. the previous owner had oversized halyards and as you can see bigger isn’t always better. so if you are finding the main harder to hoist or it’s not dropping as easily have a good look at the sheaves. I replaced all 6 with ones from Garhauer with bearings as well as new axles from Rigrite.

Paul
hull 170

MastSheaves

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Interior Teak Finishing

Had a port light leak that ruined my chart table.   I think Target Enterprises is out of  business, or bought by someone else.

Anyone have luck matching the color from the 380, Hull 140 era?

Earl Poe
Angel’s Wings, 140
earljpoe@swbell.net

 


You can find it at Catalina Direct.

Clay Greene
C387 #30
Cattywampus
Milwaukee, WI

 


I just bought some from these folks.  I called Catalina and they told me about this people.

http://www.finishingzone.com/product/emtech-em2000-waterborne-alkyd-varnish/

Bob
C380 2002 #349
“At Last”

 


Brian, Catalina used the satin finish so that’s what I bought. So far I am very happy with the product.

Bob
C380 2002 #349
“At Last”

 


This information was received recently from Catalina Direct.

Our Satin Interior Varnish was used on Catalinas built from 1995 to 2001. It cures to a very hard, clear film without the use of secondary catalysts. A Semi-Gloss version of this varnish

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Dutchman Issues

While my mainsail is at the sail makers for minor repairs we were discussing adding a third Dutchman line.  As with many of the C380’s my boat came with only two Dutchman lines which often results in the sail flopping off the boom at outer end.  Here are some highlights of our discussion and I am hoping for guidance of what has worked with others.

1.       First we discussed just adding a third Dutchman line behind the current after line. At first the sail maker thought that was a good and economical solution. I tend to agree but want to ask if others have done that or if I will be unhappy. Another advantage of this is that I only need to make one modification to the sail cover which is in great shape.

2.       The best solution that is more than I want to spend is to move both

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