This month we have two articles regarding portlight and hatch issues that tend to plague our C380’s. First, is an article from Captain Tim Porter on sealing those bothersome leaks around the Lewmar side ports. I can relate to this one and remember the rainy delivery cruise up the ICW when I bought Blue Heron. My crewman assigned to the middle cabin had a series of plastic cups positioned under the ports to collect the drips so he could keep his bunk and gear dry. We weren’t able to get pictures of the fix in time for publication, but I think Tim’s description is clear without. Second, is an article from Captain Skip Wilkins on replacing the plexiglass companionway slider with Starboard. It is a different approach versus trying to retrofit a fiberglass C387 slider onto the C380.
As always, I am looking for new ideas, or
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I get tired of the tangle of genoa sheet tails in the cockpit. They usually end up at the ends of the “T”, but they still get under foot and in the way. I also find the cockpit bins are too far forward to stow and easily reach winch handles from the helm area when tacking short-handed. I started looking at various options for pre-made sheet bags and various winch handle holders, but did not find anything that fit the bill. I have a canvas sewing machine so I also looked at making the bags mysef, including a kit from Sailrite. However, I quickly figured out I could just buy the materials and save some money versus the kit. Plus I could custom fit the bags to the “T” ends and include a pocket for the winch handles to
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My boat did not come with any type of latch or bumper to keep the head door from swinging into the shower doorframe. So the door was always left closed. However, while in a seaway, the latch would work and the door would eventually swing open. The head door handle would then start banging into the shower door frame and eventually put a dimple in the shower’s aluminum doorframe. This did not seem healthy to any of the parts involved. I evaluated the cost and appearance of standard doorstops available in marine and hardware stores. Nothing looked right and the marine stuff cost well over $50, more than I wanted to spend. After some creative pondering, I came upon the idea of using a white eraser. I cut it to a pleasing shape and mounted it to the shower
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After about 10 years of light use of our shower, the sealant failed at the bottom of the wall in which the shower door is mounted. This resulted in water getting trapped along the bottom edge between the inner and outer seal of that wall. This only became noticeable when I was trying to replace the factory-installed sealant that had started to crack along its full length just below the shower door area in the head area. When trying to remove the old sealant, the Formica covering the area blistered off because the water leak had broken the bond between the wall material and Formica (see Photo 1). The real damage probably occurred during winter lay up when the boat is blocked nose up. This nose-up attitude causes any small amount of water or snow leaking into the shower
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It is hard to believe that summer is over and we are heading into the fall sailing season. We had a late start this year due to family matters. Then the proliferation of 100+ degree days made sailing and any exterior projects very uncomfortable. In fact, I just got my new 135% genoa up, which was delivered in April, on a relatively cool day this past week and used it for the first time today. Definitely makes tacking down theYork Rivermuch easier and adds about 5 degrees pointing capability versus the old, baggy 150.
I will report that one of my winter projects has performed wonderfully over the summer. That project was adding a vent in the starboard lazerette with a 12V pancake exhaust fan wired to run with the refrigeration compressor. This simple project has completely eliminated the “boat smell” that used to emanate from the
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The engine water strainer was originally located under the berth where it was extremely difficult to reach, which can be dangerous in an emergency. The same was true for the primary fuel filter. The water strainer was replaced (and exchanged against an all plastic Vetus model (no rust) into the engine compartment. It sits now just above the waterline and can be easily cleaned without closing the sea cock. The fuel filter was brought outside the berth and a cover was made to protect it from being accidentally hit. The cover also makes a nice stool in front of the mirror. The stool is not too deep, thus still enabling a unobstructed passage between mirror and berth. Under the stool is a place for spare fuel filters and a prime pump in case the filter has to be primed.
Editor’s notes: The Racor relocation shown is based
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I replaced the 1” pedestal guard with a Navpod 1.25 inch. It included the feet while the Edson feet are extra cost I believe. I got the AG126 which is about a 13 inch offset. I think I could have used the AG125 which is about 9 inch offset and reduced the footprint over the table. I had a C90W on the lower angled section and the instrument pod on the upper section of the pedestal guard. I also replaced the plate below the compass with the one from navpod which is stainless. At first I tried to drill the aluminum top plate but did not get a clean hole. Also by using the Navpod stainless steel top plate I will not get any galvanic action. It is isolated at the compass with gaskets. (Navpod TP125 top plate and was about $85
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When I purchased my 1999 C-380 in 2008, the steering was very tight. I later determined someone had greased the lower rudder bearing with petroleum-based grease, which is very detrimental to Marelon, the material from which the bearings are made. Petroleum grease causes Marelon to swell, which caused the bearing to contract on the rudder post. My only option was to replace at the minimum the lower bearing. What follows is what I learned in the process, and how I did the replacement. The notation [WP] refers to information I received from Warren Pandy at Catalina inLargowhen he helped me determine the problem and what I needed to know to fix it…thanksWarren!
First off, there are two bearings on C380’s and C387’s, upper and lower, plus a mid-shaft packing gland. Here are some specifics about each:
[Editor’s Note – See Catalina
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Last November’s Mainsheet lead article opened this subject, an important one affecting all of our boats. At the time, a C380 captain had reported on our Yahoo chat list a complete disconnection of the forestay from the stem fitting during brisk sailing conditions. Luckily, he was sailing downwind, so there was little adverse pressure on the rig. He was able to get the genny down, lash down the flailing forestay, and tie-in a couple of halyards to secure the mast. The captain noted that the 5/8″ clevis pin was gone. The pin normally secures the forestay to the stem fitting, and is held in place by a cotter pin. He also mentioned that he had noted that all was secure, including the cotter pin, a few weeks earlier.
I checked my rig and noted that the clevis (or “toggle”) had wandered a bit
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Repair of the C-380 Cockpit Table Leaf Support Bracket
by Steve Riddle
Mainsheet, August 200-9
The cockpit table leaf support on the C-380 will eventually separate due to chafing of the internal cord that connects the two support tubes. The cord is also spring loaded: (1) to make it easy to snap the two support pieces together one handed and (2) to keep the two support pieces snugly together if someone bumps the underside of the table leaf. Because the male and female tips are crimped into the body of the support tubes, replacing a broken cord is not normally possible since the cord ends are located several inches down inside the support tubes. Thus, the only apparent option when the cord chafes through has been to buy a replacement support from Catalina.
Yes, if your cord has broken, you can continue to use the support, albeit with some difficultly
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