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My 2006, 387 hull #106 has developed. a concerning problem with the cast alloy sparcraft mast step secures the base of the mast to the deck. The mast step is secured to the deck via 4 corner bolts and in my case the casting has fractured in 2 of the corners so now only secured via 2 bolts with the remainder no longer effective.
After sourcing the replacement part #FM-580 from Sparcraft France, next steps were to secure a rigger to undertake the work and prepare for the day to ensure the riggers costs were minimised. In our case we elected to jack the mast manually to avoid significant cost blowouts the use of a crane can trigger.
Preparation tasks:
Source some 2 mm high-density polyethylene plastic sheet, trace a template of the mast step with a marker, cutting this using scissors seemed to work best, this is required to
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I am in the process of replacing the forward water tank vent in my 200 Catalina 380…After some research, including input/advice from the group; I did the following:
Installed a 10 “ circular inspection port on the starboard side of the anchor locker;
Replaced broken vent with a new perko 5/8” vent with 90 degree bend (where vent pipe attached to vent hose).
I looked into a plastic forespar vent but they did not come with a bend on the inside of the hull…I was concerned abut a kink in the water tank vent hose after connecting with the vent. The perko vent appeared to be an exact replacement for the broken vent.
Several captains have suggested the following sources for replacements of the stainless caps to the various tanks. Most of the sources below require you to buy the whole fitting. Defender sells just the cap. To me, the chains are dangerous and just beg to have the cap go over the side. JMO.
This source sells just the cap without the rest of the unit:
I fly an asym tacked to the anchor roller all the time. Trust me, at some point you will fly it in more than 12 kts. I run the tack line from the cockpit through a block with swivel shackle hooked to a heavy line tied tightly around the anchor roller itself (the rubber roller part) This allows me to get the tack much lower than using the bale and it keeps the load off the bale.
But Fair winds, Mike C380 #77, Debbia Racine, WImore importantly I suggest adding a Bobstay. As is, the anchor roller is designed to accept down force, without a bobstay, the upward load from the asym tack will eventually work the anchor roller loose from the deck and cause leaks. In extreme cases it can bend it or even rip it out. You’ll be surprised at how much load there is on the tack
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We have one and we are very happy with it. I don’t use it much but when I need it, I NEED it. We generally turn it on when entering a marina just incase we need it and it is a nice safety net to have.
Ours is a Vetus Model 6012B and it is installed in front of the forward water tank. The previous owner had it installed by Engineered Marine Systems in Annapolis. The invoice was for $7,000 ($3600 in labor).
Let me know if you need anymore information.
Mike Gilmore
s/v Morning Glory, C380 #34
In April, we installed (ourselves) the Yacht Thruster 230 Simplex (ExTurn). The kit was $6300. We spent another $1200 or so on miscellaneous materials for the project and haul-out. While I agree with Mike that we don’t use it often, it is pretty amazing when we do. We have notice little to
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[Editor: Much discussion on this topic. Here are a few pictures of such installations…]
Batteries sit in a fiberglass box. Box usually has walls only and when fitted in place, they build bottom inside of it.
I had to cut part of the floor above the box, between stern wall of the box and stairs. Floor can be cut and battery box can be extended to fit four 6V batteries. There is no need to change anything on floor boards. When you remove battery box lids with the attached floor boards, you will notice that floor under is not flat.
Regards,
Mario
Here is a picture I found on internet. It is very much like mine. I can put in four 6V batteries from boat centerline toward starboard side. There is still space left on the starboard side for one more battery.
I’ve attached a picture of the 4 Trojan
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My terminal strip is not numbered so I call pin/ terminal #1 = green/ black wires (adjacent is heavy red wires). Color a/ color b denotes color on engine side / color on panel side. ( this is for Westerbekes; Yanmars should be the same functionally, but colors on engine side may be different. Westerbekes see P 48/49 of engine manual)
-12 v / ground. Green/ black
+12 v Battery Red/red
Temperature sender. Yellow / brown
Tach sender. Brown / grey
Glow plugs. Violet / white
Not used. Orange / not used (Oil pressure gauge option)
Alt./ ignition. Red white / purple. (see term. 9)
Starter. White / yellow red
Alarm power. Pink / not used (tied to 7)
Not used. Grey / not used ( charge light option)
Oil pres switch. Lt. Blue / Lt. Blue black
Water temp switch. Tan / tan black
To complete on cockpit
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Hello all, we are new to the board and would like to share an experience from last week on the Pamlico sound in NC. We were motor sailing and suddenly the engine reduced rpm’s and then quit. It would not restart, did all the fuel things, filter(s) and the like with no luck. After a day and a half at the boatyard we learned that the exhaust mixing elbow was totally occluded from carbon. The Yanmar Service tech told us “it’s a 5 year service item”. We have a Yanmar 3jh3e with 2700 hours on it, and we have owned this boat for 2 years.
Next I would like some info on our 02 380, # 0365. Our motoring speed @ 2800 rpm is 5 to 5.5 kts. We are to haul soon and would like to check and may be just replace the prop. What I have seen on
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